Annealing - first attempt

[OldmanFCSA]

As to quenching, if you ever pick up a hot casing, you will wish that you were quenching in cold water.

Hot to the fingers does not = annealing temperature. AGREE _ BUT HEAT DOES TRAVEL DOWN CASE.

It does not take much to burn your fingers but to anneal in a few seconds require the brass to be at 750 degrees F which is a whole different animal….

This is how if one does not look at the details, internet myths gets generated. THIS IS HOW I WAS TRAINED 50 YEARS AGO, BEFORE THE INTERNET AND AL GORE.

 

[OldmanFCSA]

I quench in cold water treated with a healthy dose of LemiShine which removes the Annealing discoloration, resulting in clean looking brass.

Never tried this, I will have to do so on my next annealing! You have any other processes up your sleeve?

Dennis

I have several other tips, but will not post as "if one does not look at the details, internet myths gets generated".

Save the treated water and use when wet-tumbling the next batch of dirty brass.

 

[jlow]

Heat does not immediately stop traveling down the neck - it proceeds down the case until the cold of lower case body normalizes the hot of the annealed area. Try it, anneal while holding in your fingers, then continue to hold in your fingers until the temperature normalizes. Then as you drop it because it is too hot to handle, tell me "Once the heat source is removed annealing does not continue to travel down the neck."

This is absolutely true, heat will continue to travel down the case even after you remove the flame from the neck/shoulder junction. However, the amount of heat that remains at the neck/shoulder junction that travels down is not enough to anneal the body or the head of the case - this is why quenching is not necessary.

Again, using the finger test means nothing but if you want to do a real scientific test, paint 400 degree Tempilaq down the length of the case - I have done this numerous times. If you do this, you will see that neither the head nor the body of the case reach 400 degrees which BTW is not enough to anneal. THIS is why quenching is not necessary.

 

[OldmanFCSA]

Heat does not immediately stop traveling down the neck - it proceeds down the case until the cold of lower case body normalizes the hot of the annealed area. Try it, anneal while holding in your fingers, then continue to hold in your fingers until the temperature normalizes. Then as you drop it because it is too hot to handle, tell me "Once the heat source is removed annealing does not continue to travel down the neck."

This is absolutely true, heat will continue to travel down the case even after you remove the flame from the neck/shoulder junction. However, the amount of heat that remains at the neck/shoulder junction that travels down is not enough to anneal the body or the head of the case - this is why quenching is not necessary.

Again, using the finger test means nothing but if you want to do a real scientific test, paint 400 degree Tempilaq down the length of the case - I have done this numerous times. If you do this, you will see that neither the head nor the body of the case reach 400 degrees which BTW is not enough to anneal. THIS is why quenching is not necessary.

OK, I will agree with you this time if annealing rifle cartridge cases which are longer, but I will continue to quench as my process. YMMV.

 

[BillPa]

Using the press to raise the case into the flame is a good idea

You could also add or fashion a case kicker to automatically throw the brass into a can or something when the ram in lowered.

 

[dalej]

Water quenching is unnecessary, however it does knock off the scale that forms on annealed necks. Water quench or use Scotch-Brite pad to remove scale? I'll pick water.

 

[stroked96s10]

Yes the picture was taking as a demo, using lake city brass I collect at the range in case I decide to load for my ar or buddy's ar. Obviously it'll over heat in the amount of time it takes me to put it in the flame, stand back, focus and take a pic. I can adjust the length of the flame depending on how fast it heats. I have horizontal and vertical adjustment in both bottles, and can slide them within the clamps as well. I'll be doing 223, 6x47 and 300wm. Which is why it's all adjustable.
I'll be adding a chute to the back for when it's done and a little push stick so I don't burn my fingers. I have a bottle of tempilaq 750 I'll be using as well. I know this isn't the perfect, ideal setup, but it seems as though it'll do what I need it to.
Thanks for all the feedback, advice, tips and criticism. All appreciated and noted.