annealing brass

[rebs]

when annealing 223 brass and you bring it to the right temperature do you let it air dry or stick it in water ? Wouldn't sticking it in water harden the brass ?

 

[Capt45]

Air cooling.

 

[Supergyro95]

What tool/method are you using to anneal? The reason many drop their annealed brass into water is to stop the heat from spreading into the case head. There's no worry of hardening the brass, as brass cannot be quench hardened like carbon steel can.

 

[itchyTF]

Air cool

 

[magic mike]

No. Quenching in water will have no affect other than stopping the heat from migrating to the base of the case.

 

[jr600yd]

Dropping them in water and all you get is wet brass. Drop them on a wet-dampened towel.

 

[jpx2rk]

I drop/dump them in a small metal loaf baking pan (meat loaf size), and then spread them out on a towel to completely cool before storing.

 

[tmwinds]

No part of the brass, including the case head, will get hotter after leaving the heat source. It will only get cooler. No reason to dump it into water.

 

[Fuj]

No part of the brass, including the case head, will get hotter after leaving the heat source. It will only get cooler. No reason to dump it into water.

Spot on !! Once it leaves the heat, what heat that does
migrate, is too low of a temp, to soften brass.

 

[DOGCAPPER]

Brass is not carbon steel.
It reacts opposite when heated and cooled.
Firing is heating brass and slow air cooling. This causes hardning of brass.
The quick cooling of heated brass is as important as the as the proper temperature.
Important enough to carry its own name...Quinch.

 

[Shooter13]

Brass is not carbon steel.
It reacts opposite when heated and cooled.
Firing is heating brass and slow air cooling. This causes hardning of brass.
The quick cooling of heated brass is as important as the as the proper temperature.
Important enough to carry its own name...Quinch.

Once you have allowed the structure of the brass to transform, it's done. You can cool it as slowly or as quickly as you like and it won't matter. The myth that you need to quench brass comes from the requirement to do so when heat treating some kinds of steel.

 

[rebs]

Thank you all for the replies

 

[ppaul]

I wish for all that are concerned about softening of the case head would do some testing. Destructive testing!

Take one of your cases and put a stripe of 400 degree Tempilaq on the base and web area. Point your flame at the neck shoulder junction and have at it. I believe that you will find yourself relieved of some of your fears. Just be aware that this may leave room for a new paranoia!

Paul

 

[jepp2]

I wish for all that are concerned about softening of the case head would do some testing. Destructive testing!

Agree 100%.

I had some military brass I was wanting to break down. I pulled the bullets and applied the powder to the yard. But I wanted to "disarm" the berdan primers. So I drilled a hole in a 2x4 the brass fit in snugly. Took them to the range with me the next time I went. Apply the flame from a propane torch to the side of the case head, it took on average 15 seconds of heating before the primer fired off. And the primer will fire off long before the case head softens from the heat. Of course I wouldn't do this to my reloading brass, but the concern about softening the thick case head when applying the heat to the case neck/shoulder area is truly a paranoia.

 

[Bill K]

I just drop them onto a damp towel and let them cool there.

 

[TC260]

Brass is not carbon steel.
It reacts opposite when heated and cooled.
Firing is heating brass and slow air cooling. This causes hardning of brass.

Strain hardening happens because there's sufficient pressure to exceed the yield strength of the brass.