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Annealer, Giraud or Benchsource

I wanted regulated torch heads, and bench source opened the clamps without any extra charge.
Ron


wvuredneck09 said:
In that case would that be worth it or should I get something different?
 
ridgeway said:
Head to Home Depot and get two Bernzomatic Fatboy torch kits for like $12

In addition to, I use two Worthington torch extension hoses so I can set the propane bottles on the bench rather than suspended from the annealer.

http://www.amazon.com/Worthington-Cylinder-309336-Extention-Torch/dp/B002FXGLV2

What he said. Same setup here and it works perfectly. The torches are adjusted and I don't have to touch them. Just crack open the fatboys, light the torches, and go to work.
 
I have a Bench Source, and really like it. My only real beef with it is that I have to stand there and feed cases, but even so, annealing 300 cases at a time doesn't take that long, maybe 45 minutes or so. To me then, the main advantage of the Giraud is the hopper, you can load it up and do something else while it works. Like Bayou Shooter, I have also taken to annealing my cases after every firing, and it too has improved my scores and reduced the number of WTF fliers at 1000yds.
 
I now own a Giraud. I purchased it purely for the automatic feature of annealing: Load it up and forget it till its finished. IF I didn't have this unit I would definitely by another BALLISTIC EDGE model 400. Don't buy an annealer without looking at the 400.
 
I believe my ballistics edge is great. The only thing I wish it had is the motor to drive the case,just to make it look factory. I have done 1000's of case's with this simple machine and love it.
 
Does anybody have a good suggestion of where to get a hose set up? I would like to remove the bottles from my Benchmark.

I have a 6.5 X 47 Lapua and after 3 reloads it started throwing flyers. I annealed the brass and changed nothing else and the group went back to about .375". I'm now a firm believer in annealing every time. I like to bump the shoulder back .001". Without annealing some of the shoulders would move back and some would not. When annealed they are soft enough that they don't spring back.
 
Gappmast said:
Does anybody have a good suggestion of where to get a hose set up? I would like to remove the bottles from my Benchmark.

I have a 6.5 X 47 Lapua and after 3 reloads it started throwing flyers. I annealed the brass and changed nothing else and the group went back to about .375". I'm now a firm believer in annealing every time. I like to bump the shoulder back .001". Without annealing some of the shoulders would move back and some would not. When annealed they are soft enough that they don't spring back.

You talking about this hose...

http://www.amazon.com/Worthington-Cylinder-309336-Extention-Torch/dp/B002FXGLV2

I ordered two of them from amazon and they work great.
 
ridgeway said:
You talking about this hose...

http://www.amazon.com/Worthington-Cylinder-309336-Extention-Torch/dp/B002FXGLV2

I ordered two of them from amazon and they work great.
How about a splitter to hook one bottle up to the two hoses/torches? I cant seem to find it.
 
http://www.amazon.com/Coleman-2000005190-Propane-Tee/dp/B0009PUPWY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_piT1_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&coliid=I7LYBZ9U4762V&colid=2OSZAD52S0B19

Should be the splitter you are talking about, will hook to a 20lb tank and the 2 "outputs" are the same as the little tanks, just add the hoses listed or these as far as my research shows.

http://www.amazon.com/Coleman-5475B580T-8-Extension-Hose/dp/B0009PUQBO/ref=pd_sim_sg_2
 
wvuredneck09 said:
Should be the splitter you are talking about, will hook to a 20lb tank and the 2 "outputs" are the same as the little tanks, just add the hoses listed or these as far as my research shows.
I have one of these but was looking for a splitter for one little bottle. That way I don't have to keep a 20 pound tank handy. Do that make one?
 
I'm sure a fitting specialist can put something together for you. Might even have luck at Lowes, either in the brass fitting section or where they keep the portable heating accessories.
 
You could screw this onto the small bottle than attach the T that I am planning on using to it. http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F276172-Propane-Adapter/dp/B000AMC5WO/ref=pd_sim_k_3
 
wvuredneck09 said:
You could screw this onto the small bottle than attach the T that I am planning on using to it. http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F276172-Propane-Adapter/dp/B000AMC5WO/ref=pd_sim_k_3
The end that screws into the T on this would need to me female, not male. But I think this one is it.

http://www.amazon.com/Propane-FEMALE-Reserve-Cylinder-Adaptor/dp/B007HROI8E/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1341803153&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=B007hroi8e
 
You are correct I figured out another way as well and it is actually a bit cheaper. Get one of these http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F273754-Throwaway-Cylinder/dp/B000BQM8IU/ref=pd_sim_sg_4

Get two of these http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F273755-Throwaway-Cylinder/dp/B000BQN4IS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1341804566&sr=8-1&keywords=F273755

two of these http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-Appliance-Extension-F273717/dp/B0002YQP6C/ref=pd_bxgy_hg_img_c

and lastly one of these http://www.lowes.com/pd_34833-104-A-730_0__?productId=3134255&Ntt=brass+tee+1%2F4%22&pl=1&currentURL=&facetInfo=

A little thread tape on the NPT fittings and your good to go, add a shutoff if you don't want to remove the tank from the system for safety in between uses.
 
DennisH said:
I have dediced to use one of the following: Giraud or Benchsource

Both have their good and bad points. The biggest difference is the Giraud has to have the wheels swapped out if changing bullet sizes! Benchsource does not. Benchsource does everything but 50's.

Does two torches really help on either?

I have everything from 223 up to 338's!

TELL ME WHAT TO BUY!

Since you have to manually enter cases one at a time with the benchsource (I believe you do right? At least from what I've seenon YouTube), I would recommend this alternative manual solution (see image below). Available from Midway USA and elsewhere.
 

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Guys, Do you cool annealed cases in water, damp towl or just leave to cool, Has anyone noticed different results with neck tension by choosing different way to cool the brass.
 
I air cool in the metal (cake) pan they drop into. I have not test to see if it makes a difference by using the others methods to cool. Even it it would make a difference in what method you used overall, the brass springiness/workability within your batch should be the same since the batch was cooled using the same method. The amount of tension can be adjusted when you resize the neck after annealing. I personally don't think it matters how you cool them unless you are getting them way too hot in the first place.
 
paulT said:
Guys, Do you cool annealed cases in water, damp towl or just leave to cool, Has anyone noticed different results with neck tension by choosing different way to cool the brass.

I have an aluminum baking pan about 16" x 12" that I drop them in on their side. This sinks head away from the case proper, but the neck is still in the air... works for me.
 
paulT said:
Guys, Do you cool annealed cases in water, damp towl or just leave to cool, Has anyone noticed different results with neck tension by choosing different way to cool the brass.
From a metallurgical view, water does absolutely nothing to the brass. About the only advantage I can see is you can pick them up without burning your fingers, lol.
 

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