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AMP 3 digit code

Does higher code number mean higher temperature or not necessarily?
If you take a peek at pp13 of the manual, you will see how when you adjust the code up = more power thus softer, moving the number down is less power, thus harder. Roughly a step of 2.5HV per step.
 
If you take a peek at pp13 of the manual, you will see how when you adjust the code up = more power thus softer, moving the number down is less power, thus harder. Roughly a step of 2.5HV per step.
Thank you. This reminds me about one of my classmates used to say
"When everything else fails, then you read and follow instructions"
 
What pilot did you use for your brass? That is super important since it assures the correct depth into the annealer.

The Aztec codes are like “shortcut” custom codes that is arguably more accurate than the lookup codes. My assumption is that your 7.62 “M1A” is std 7.62x51 NATO, or .308
Start by ensuring that you used the correct pilot (the 308/260/7mm-08/243 one).

if you did that, then the 155 reading you got from before should be good to go. When you start up the machine, just go into aztrc mode and enter that code, machine will then apply correct settings.

lookup some videos on Youtube, AMP, Gavintube, Eric Cortina and FClass John have all made comprehensive howto videos
 
Does higher code number mean higher temperature or not necessarily?
YES, to put it simply…
As already suggested check the neck thickness of your brass by sampling 5-10 cases, get an average and do your Aztec Code test on that case.
Military brass will very more than a high quality one like Lapua, Norma, ADG, Peterson ect…
Also check that they are all the same year and same manufacture as mixed lots of different years and makers will never go well as there can be just too much variance.
Some will be annealed just right, some not enough and some too much.
I have annealed {with an AMP machine} a lot of military 30-06 brass and some of the WWII stuff varies significantly! The 308 ex-military not quite as extreme but it does vary enough that you will see the difference in the amount of annealing on the case neck/shoulder area.
Just be aware that AMP tells you that you cannot judge the amount of annealing on a case just by looking at it.
Trust your Aztec setting to get it “Just Right”… Without danger of burning the house down or running out of gas midway through your preparations, looking at a “temp stick” mark and making a guess….
Consistent annealing = consistent neck tension.
You can also ask questions directly to AMP and I have found them very responsive to email queries.
 

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