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Aluminum fort rails for a BR stock ?

I’m looking to install a set of front rails on a BR stock. Wondering if I should make them from aluminum square stock or bent 90 degree pieces ? Also how to affix these to the stock ? Small counter sunk screws or just epoxy them down?
I’m looking to match the width of anther stock as to minimize the adjustment changes on a front rest.
This is where I’m at so far, I made my own trigger guard and front button as well as being my first bedding and pillar job.
Any advice or criticism would be welcome.FB8BB6E8-98D7-47D5-B824-9DF45A840FFE.jpeg421820C2-7BF1-4CEF-80B9-E24D19765B67.jpeg
 
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I am not a benchrest shooter, but my understanding is that the rails need to be in line with the with the rear of the stock so it moves back and forth straight. I don't think I would try to use an angle but would use some bar stock.
I think your tools might make or break you on this. If you did your own metal work, I imagine you have a mill. If it were me i would find the center line and go from there. If you cut oversize for the rails, then it will leave room for adjustment of the angle.
I would not be afraid to add more wood and do that instead of aluminum either.
 
If you want it to track make a full sized plate so you can swivel and shim it. Thats what we used to do before I came up with the rear rudder.
 
I've made allot of these for shooting diffrent types of stocks on a 4' front rest. You'll want to be able to do what Alex says here regarding tracking prior to final permanent attatchement
front bag rider.jpg
This one is made to go on a XLR Element stock or a HSPrecision stock I have The rails are screwed and JB Weld to plate

What your doing is a little diffrent but if you want the rails it's an option
 
I’m making a long fake receiver next week. The diameter I will turn to the 1.355 of that my real one is. Them I’ll mill a slot in it , install a piece of flat stock in the slot and weld it up.
Next up is to drill and tap the fake action. I should then be able to indicate and lock the stock into the mill vise, which in theory at this point would allow me to true my front end , mill in the rail spots and thin down my buttstock all from the same locked in position.
I already have a whole front plate that I could indicate in shim and lock into position. The reason I cannot use this the added weight. I need to stay at 12 lbs or less once complete.
Does the mill /false receiver idea sound ok ?
 
Yes and no. Its surprising how little error it takes to show up on target. Lets say your front and rear bags are 30" apart. If the front or rear of the stock deviates .001" of an inch in any direction from the other end when you slide the gun back that will show up as 1.2" of crosshair movement at 1k" yards. So your fixture has to be very good. I made a full length rod that fits into the barrel channel using screws. I milled it the whole length to give me a square to grab on to. But its one piece, no joints or welds. I made a stock using it and it will stay on a clay bird at 1k if you stoke the gun. Any little flex in the fixture is going to show up. This was long before the rudder idea, the rudder or front plate is so much easier and its a sure thing. No going back to the mill to tweak things.
 
I’m making a long fake receiver next week. The diameter I will turn to the 1.355 of that my real one is. Them I’ll mill a slot in it , install a piece of flat stock in the slot and weld it up.
Next up is to drill and tap the fake action. I should then be able to indicate and lock the stock into the mill vise, which in theory at this point would allow me to true my front end , mill in the rail spots and thin down my buttstock all from the same locked in position.
I already have a whole front plate that I could indicate in shim and lock into position. The reason I cannot use this the added weight. I need to stay at 12 lbs or less once complete.
Does the mill /false receiver idea sound ok ?
You could just indicate the stock. Its what matters more than the receiver being straight
 
Yes and no. Its surprising how little error it takes to show up on target. Lets say your front and rear bags are 30" apart. If the front or rear of the stock deviates .001" of an inch in any direction from the other end when you slide the gun back that will show up as 1.2" of crosshair movement at 1k" yards. So your fixture has to be very good. I made a full length rod that fits into the barrel channel using screws. I milled it the whole length to give me a square to grab on to. But its one piece, no joints or welds. I made a stock using it and it will stay on a clay bird at 1k if you stoke the gun. Any little flex in the fixture is going to show up. This was long before the rudder idea, the rudder or front plate is so much easier and its a sure thing. No going back to the mill to tweak things.
I like the rudder the best for sure
 
Yes and no. Its surprising how little error it takes to show up on target. Lets say your front and rear bags are 30" apart. If the front or rear of the stock deviates .001" of an inch in any direction from the other end when you slide the gun back that will show up as 1.2" of crosshair movement at 1k" yards. So your fixture has to be very good. I made a full length rod that fits into the barrel channel using screws. I milled it the whole length to give me a square to grab on to. But its one piece, no joints or welds. I made a stock using it and it will stay on a clay bird at 1k if you stoke the gun. Any little flex in the fixture is going to show up. This was long before the rudder idea, the rudder or front plate is so much easier and its a sure thing. No going back to the mill to tweak things.
Can you explain your rudder and how it adjusts?
is it both left to right angles as well as heel and toe drop ?
Also how much does the rudder weigh with the attaching hardware?
 
Can you explain your rudder and how it adjusts?
is it both left to right angles as well as heel and toe drop ?
Also how much does the rudder weigh with the attaching hardware?

This is an older article on the original design for wood stocks. When I got McMillan to start producing the LRB I changed the design to a U shaped rudder that wrapped around the stock. The videos are all gone since youtube got political but I have one at the bottom of my videos page on my website. I dont sell the rudders, they come on the LRB stocks but you get the idea.
 

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