AGS mods

[archerforkids]

I thought this might help anybody that has purchased the AGS annealing machine.
For starters, this is money we'll spent. This annealer is very well made. It's compact size makes it all the sweeter.
From what I understand the size might be dictated by freight/shipping costs. This particular size might be fitting at the edge of the "next price up" tier. Smart move if you ask me.
As some of you have read, the height of it has a potential to cause brass to stand up underneath it. I am an old finish carpenter at heart, so needless to say I made something out of wood to raise it up 1 1/2". Ran a 1/2" x 1/16" rabbet around the top of the three boards to give the stainless a nesting point. As you can see, I ran a simple machine screw with washer and wing nut just touching the edge of the stainless. When you tighten the wing nut, it compresses the stainless into the rabbet and holds on to it quite well. I then cut a small piece of wood with a 45° bevel on it and secured it below the exit hole where the brass falls through. Now when it falls through, it shoots out the front. This all is attached to a wood base. I set the whole assembly in a cake pan while using. This keeps all the brass from running wild.

 

[archerforkids]

I wasn't super happy with how you tightened the height, angle, torch head tension with one screw. Not to mention you have to use an allen wrench to do it.
I purchased some 4 mm by 30 mm stainless threaded studs from McMaster-Carr. I also purchased stainless pull knobs with the same thread as well as some nylon washers. This combination is the perfect length to reach all the way through the assembly and leave enough thread to solidly secure the knobs.
When you receive this unit, The only thing threaded in the torch assembly device is one side of the aluminum block that slips up and down the height post. I ran the threaded stud into this and determined the proper position so that I was able to get the knobs on both sides when assembled. I then backed out the threaded stud just enough to put some blue lock tight on it. I then threaded it back in to the appropriate position and let it set up.
Now with the stainless knobs on each side, I have a choice of either loosening the height/rotation knob, or loosening the angle knob that the torch is setting in. No tools involved. This thing is super friendly to fine tune now.
If you want to save a couple of bucks, the stainless knobs might be overkill. I've had bad luck threading aluminum and stainless together so I shied away from the cheaper knobs which were made of aluminum.
All in all, I would definitely purchase this annealer again. I'm still scratching my head trying to figure out how I received it from overseas in 4 days. Hell, I can't get a check from across town that fast.

 

[archerforkids]

Here it is mounted to annealer

 

[sharp.shooter.ser]

Thank you for the ideas Weight and size is a limiting factor for affordable shipping so I have to stay in this size/weight limit, but the deflector you made looks awesome (simple and elegant, true workmanship). Now I will have to scratch my head on how to make a version of this upgrade lol.
And knobs - they look nice as well, and it is surely easier way to adjust height angle with them, but I wanted to keep the fingers off touching potentially hot metal if possible - torch head will most certainly transfer heat through it. But I will have a look at some potential materials that wont get hot.

 

[archerforkids]

If I would have had a piece on hand, I would have put a short piece of 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" aluminum angle below for the brass to deflect off of. It wouldn't have to be 2" long set in a "pyramid" position.

 

[sharp.shooter.ser]

The tray itself has an angled side, which should help with deflection (and a small notch on the side of the tray for alignment) but with larger catch pan something like your mod would be easier for operation.

 

[fatelvis]

I just bought one of these and I prefer it hands down to my Annealeze. it spins the case positively and runs very smoothly. My Annealeze is ok, but I was constantly working on the wheel that spins the case to make it not slip. It would work for a while, but then need to be resurfaced with stick on sandpaper. I would definitely urge anyone in the market for a REASONABLY priced annealer to buy one. I would love the AMP, but I'm not a doctor or Lawyer. Lol

 

[nilebartram]

I copied the modification that archerforkids did and it work's great. He did a great job and I highly recommend to do the modification.

 

[Mark611]

I took my torch holder completely off the base unit, I noticed it was causing excess heat transfer back on the whole unit it self, I used a free-standing gage stand to support the torch and it no longer contacts the unit at all, I also extended the base height, so my cases don't stack up on each other, very happy with the AGS!

 

[archerforkids]

I took my torch holder completely off the base unit, I noticed it was causing excess heat transfer back on the whole unit it self, I used a free-standing gage stand to support the torch and it no longer contacts the unit at all, I also extended the base height, so my cases don't stack up on each other, very happy with the AGS!

I wonder if a fellow isolated the 2 aluminum blocks from each other via maybe some type of composite washer would it keep the heat from traveling to the height adjustment block?

 

[Mark611]

IMO, I would doubt it, if it contacts the unit it will transfer heat, JMO!

 

[Someone online]

Issue I have with the torch connector is that I can't remove the torch head easily after use. It seems to have welded onto the torch. It's a bit annoying and now I just left the torch on it

 

[archerforkids]

Issue I have with the torch connector is that I can't remove the torch head easily after use. It seems to have welded onto the torch. It's a bit annoying and now I just left the torch on it

I had this too. Wrapped some sandpaper around a dowel rod, chucked it up in a cordless drill and opened the hole up a little.

 

[sharp.shooter.ser]

Yes, heat will transfer eventually, there is no way around it, with any reasonably priced and easily available material (except to have torch mounted separately from the aneealer body like Mark611 did). I said earlier "I wanted to keep the fingers off touching potentially hot metal if possible" and having it like this is the way to achieve that - not having large knobs on the holder. As for torch head not moving easily - its made with 0.504 opening, to accept 1/2" heads - however their tolerances might be a bit "looser". And also, when tightened, it bends just a tiny bit on the spot where the cut is - pry it (the cut spot) with a flat screwdriver just a little and it will be loose.