Advise on truing up a Rem 788

[Shawnba67]

Ok I have a 788 that a friend sold me dirt cheap when I bought my lathe on the grounds I do cool stuff to it and then let him shoot it a bit.
I've decided that along with becoming a 30 dasher I'm going to attempt to "true" up the action. I want to sleeve the bolt and at least check for a high lug or 2 if not kiss them all clean but ideas on how to do that part would be welcomed. Since if I mis-space my clean up kissing I will have made a problem
I'm also interested in advise on fixturing the bolt for the sleeving. The only other one I've done I ran a shouldered bolt into a k of bolt body chucked the bolt body in lathe then cut the shoulder bolt true to lathe axis then flipped it dialed it in a used a steady rest out by the lugs. However on a 2 lug bolt once I cut the sleeves I could just face the lugs in the same set up super easy. 9 lugs seem less easy!

This is just for learning and experience I already know it ain't worth doing, but there's no way I won't learn something and gain experience if I do it.
Any guiding advice is appreciated greatly

 

[Ggmac]

You'll likely lose all primary extraction if you cut the lugs . I'd blue them and touch just the high ones . Check your receiver lug cuts first and stone before you work on the bolt .
The 788 has a very short striker fall , any reduction will hurt .

 

[jdh47]

I second the motion to blue the lugs and see how they fit. I am not so sure that anything can be gained from messing with that action. Every one I have seen shot pretty good as it was. A good barrel should really make it shine.

Before I cut on anything I must prove to my satisfaction that the work is justified.

Joe

 

[Shawnba67]

I second the motion to blue the lugs and see how they fit. I am not so sure that anything can be gained from messing with that action. Every one I have seen shot pretty good as it was. A good barrel should really make it shine.

Before I cut on anything I must prove to my satisfaction that the work is justified.

Joe

So far this rifle has had extraction problems in 3 of the 4 caliber s it's been. My fired brass comes out with a .004 varience on the shoulder headspace measurement. Ive convinced my self that there is a problem somewhere either with lug contact or the floppy loose bolt canting in the bore or something. The extraction can be sorted by having the bolt handle welded on in the right place which was in my plans.
Any fixturing advise would be greatly appreciated
I may be in over my head a bit, but you can't learn how to dive, in the shallow end now can you. Thanks fella's

 

[Ggmac]

The bolt handle is part of the circular ring that surrounds the rear . The bolt handle is a short piece , if my memory is correct . Numrich has new in the white bolt handles . If they are out I think I've got a few remaining . They have a little nub on the end that is recessed into the annular ring I'm talking about .
Have you changed your extractor ?
I've got a half dozen or so 788s and shot and worked on these , never have I had to go into the extremes you describe . Remember a good smith or machinist does what's needed , not what may be needed .
Check your lugs , take care of what ones don't mate , be happy with 8 lugs do not try for the 9 , you will end up chasing your tail . Ask me how I know ? If your bolt is tilting ,I think the the trigger ( which should have a 90 degree sear ) may have been modified or replaced . Some have tried to make it look like a 700 sear which pushes the rear up ( angled sear )
If you want to ensure a bolt from tilting , think of a barrel extension .

 

[Ggmac]

So far this rifle has had extraction problems in 3 of the 4 caliber s it's been. My fired brass comes out with a .004 varience on the shoulder headspace measurement. Ive convinced my self that there is a problem somewhere either with lug contact or the floppy loose bolt canting in the bore or something. The extraction can be sorted by having the bolt handle welded on in the right place which was in my plans.
Any fixturing advise would be greatly appreciated
I may be in over my head a bit, but you can't learn how to dive, in the shallow end now can you. Thanks fella's

If you think learning is about diving in without testing the reasoning ,
I would not dive at all , use the steps .

 

[Ggmac]

I don't think my last post came out the way I intended . What I'm trying to say I admire your desire to learn , but diving in is what keyboard smiths do . There's steps to take when diagnosing and repairing a problem . I'm not saying there's not a first time for everything , but I doubt you will correct your problem .
I would first replace the extractor
Check if the bolt face is 90 from center
Check firing pin center to chamber or receiver
Check trigger and sear

 

[Shawnba67]

I don't think my last post came out the way I intended . What I'm trying to say I admire your desire to learn , but diving in is what keyboard smiths do . There's steps to take when diagnosing and repairing a problem . I'm not saying there's not a first time for everything , but I doubt you will correct your problem .
I would first replace the extractor
Check if the bolt face is 90 from center
Check firing pin center to chamber or receiver
Check trigger and sear

Thank you for the advice and the clarification on intent.
I dont think its the extractor as the entire lift is hard even the very first bit,factory ammo too. factory and new timney trigger same issue. I will check the bolt face for perpindicular-ness but if its not pretty much back to truing it all up aren't I
I dont think Im as dumb as i come across sometimes, and will admit I want to do the truing ( edit a mis statement)

 

[Dans40X]

Your 788 bolt handle has a round stud w/ threads on inboard end to "Locate" handle position to bolt body.
The stud end has a radius & threaded to 9/16" or 5/8" that has to mesh w/ firing pin shroud threads dependent on caliber/breech face diameter.

You have 3 lugs that do all of the work during bolt cycle.

Take it for what it was manufactured for-a weekend hunting rifle & nothing more.

Practice on 700 Clones as most are in need!

 

[Ggmac]

Thank you for the advice and the clarification on intent.
I dont think its the extractor as the entire lift is hard even the very first bit,factory ammo too. factory and new timney trigger same issue. I will check the bolt face for perpindicular-ness but if its not pretty much back to truing it all up aren't I
I dont think Im as dumb as i come across sometimes, and will admit I want to do the truing ( edit a mis statement)

I don't think your dumb and I hope that I didn't come across as saying that . When I diagnose a problem I ' walk the line ' what I mean is I check ALL possibles , starting small basic items . Disassemble the bolt check all with no firing pin assembly .
Working on multi lug rear locking assemblies is a lost ancient practice , what ever you will gain in knowledge will likely never be used again .. Working on almost any , even Mauser , front dual locking receivers will usuall apply to most receivers on the firing line . I love the 788 and no matter the condition , are worth more than a learning project . If you lived near , I'd let you practice on some Mausers .

 

[Will Henry]

I have done quite a bit with a 788 action and can make a couple of observations. First, I don't think sleeving would accomplish much although there may be some advantage to doing something to minimize lateral deflection. I did this by deepening the receiver ring so I xould lengthen the barrel tenon and cut a close-fitting counterbore in the breech end of the barrel. At the same time, I increased the diameter of the thread to 1 1/16. I lapped the lugs with the barrel in place. When I was all done, the rifle shot pretty well (in 6PPC) but it was a lot of work to make something that worked just as well as a 700 (but no better). Where it didn't work as well as the 700 was when it came to the stretching of cases. The 788 does stretch brass a bit; just like any rear locking action. WH