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Adjustable Lock Ring

I looked at a very early prototype. Its a gamechanger if you dont have a press that does it for you. This or the pma die adjuster are both must haves. If youre buting a new die get the whidden click adjust die itself. This will not fit on a co-ax to those that swing that way.
 
I've used the 7/8 O ring under the lockring works for me and allows for minor adjustments on the setup without moving the locked lockring.
 
I had one made for 6BRA, not impressed in my opinion for the wait and money. Will not invest in another one. The design is there just expected better.
 
So, with the O ring under the lockring, do you have to set up shoulder bump each time you set up to load that cartridge? Seems evident to me that that would be the case.
 
I think they went after repeatability with the detents on the lock ring for multiple chambers or brass on different firing cycles vs friction movement of a O ring, I love my click adjustable dies from Whidden.
 
Mad _Charlie
No , I marked the top flat side on the lockring with a thin marker to match a line on the press. Just squeeze it down to remove the flex and mark the spots , and you won't need a wrench to remove the die . I use the o ring on all my dies , decapper , sizing and seating . Give it a try and see , got them at Home Depot . Cheapest try youll ever try that works. If I remember it's a #17 o ring . Let us know how you like it if you give it a try.
 
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The deformation of the O-rings is not constant and increases with use and time.

The deformation of the O-ring isn't a factor. You aren't tightening until the die can't be turned anymore. You are tightening until the marks lines up. I don't even bother tightening the set screw on the lock ring. Neither matters. I just want some preload on the O-ring.

Background. I started trying the O-ring as it was mentioned several times in write-ups as a way the die alignment "might" be improved. I never saw any difference in that regard. But what I did see was that I liked how it held my die in place during use, and allowed for minute adjustments. Previously I had used the set screw type lock ring (could be very hard to turn after loosening the set screw) and the split lock ring (if I tightened the clamp screw with the lock ring tight against the top of the press it was very difficult to loosen the die, and it tended to allow the die to loosen in the press during use).

I'm not trying to tell anyone this is the only way. But for me, I have found it to work the best. All that really matters is that you have the die set in the proper position to bump the shoulder back the correct amount, and that the die doesn't move during continued operation. And if the die manufacturer's recommendation is to screw the die down until it contacts the top of the shell holder, lower the ram and screw the die down an additional 1/8 to 1/4 turn - DISREGARD that information. And some say exactly that.

And if the click adjustable lock ring works best for you, use it. If the Redding competition shell holders work best for you, use them. If Skip's shims work best for you, use them.

The adjustments needed are very small.
Die Adjustment.jpg
 
jepp2 covered all bases and agree 100%
Using the o ring the die won't move once set . I have a single stage RCBS RockChucker , I remove the die after each session .
 

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