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Adding F-Open Rails, please show yours

I made these to go onto an open rifle but it's a timber stock will have Ali cross pillars in it aswell s o gen it doesn't crush the timber stock

I've been considering something like this myself. If I can just find some rails like that.
 
I machined these out of 2" × 1/2" flat bar . I made a dumby template up first off of pictures I was sent from a mate of mine. Spun 3 Ali cross pillars so when doing up the 3 cross bolts not to squash the stock. Will put pics up once all epoxied in place and rails are bolted on. For an M1 I think you should be able to mill out the required section of the stock for rails to be fitted. It will just take a bit of thinking out side the box.
 
As I was transitioning from F-TR to F-Open a little over 10 years ago, I had some very stiff F-TR stocks that Steve McGee had built custom for me...and I wanted to bring them into F-Open configuration. I built a forearm attachment that was 3-inches wide and used "rails" (first pic). And, I modified the forearm of one of Steve's stocks (second pic). You can follow the progression from there with the additional pics. My forearm was constructed of red oak wood, and mated with the stock was extremely stiff. I shot this affair for awhile in F-Open in straight .284. But, it gave me just what the stock makers were building! I wanted something else.
(Continued below, because there is a 6-pic limit.)
 

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So I modified my forearm attachment into a drop-kit format (see side view pic) and continued to use an open rail format (see bottom view pic), placing a metal cross bar underneath at front of the drop-kit to give rigidity to the forearm. After practicing in this mode, decided to move the metal cross bar on top, and produced the third and forth pics of those stocks that I continue to use today in .284 Shehane. The last pic is of a more professionally done drop-kit stock made for me by Dave Bowman, PR&T Stocks, by modifying one of his F-Open stocks. (But not as stiff as my version.)
 

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My experience is that polished aluminum is sticky in the bags. Has anybody used hard anodized or other coating on a homemade rail or rudder? Does it help? Cost to coat? Does the front bag conform to the rails negating the gains after if is settled. Wouldn't there be a small void where the transition from rail to stock takes place? I am not trying to be antagonistic just looking for answers before I make this modification.
Turtle Wax the aluminum bits occasionally. Smooth as silk.
 

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