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Added Micro Vertical adjustment to my Rigid Reamer holder.

Gordy Gritters uses something like this in his video: Chambering a Championship Match Barrel (1). He never says what it is but you see it a few times hooked to his tailstock. He's using a floating reamer holder so I don't know why he needs this. I grabbed a frame from the video here (I claim "fair use"):

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1. https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-dvd-chambering-a-championship-match-barrel/h8396
Never seen the video. But I would never trust a tail stock without using a floating reamer holder.
I would guess he did that to adjust the droop or rise out of his tail stock.
 
Never seen the video. But I would never trust a tail stock without using a floating reamer holder.
I would guess he did that to adjust the droop or rise out of his tail stock.
The video is sponsored by Grizzly and they seem to make him hawk the Grizzly lathe he's using about every 30 seconds. I'll bet that he uses the adjuster thingie to make up for poor alignment in the Grizzly, but they don't let him talk about it since it would make their lathe look bad.
 
He's using a floating reamer holder so I don't know why he needs this.
That looks like Gre-Tan, it is not a floating holder. It only adjusts the angle of the reamer radially not axially. Gre-Tan says the tail stock needs to be properly aligned. I’d say you are correct that Gordy is using the offset center to compensate for any tail stock misalignment.

 
 
Machinable-End Morse Taper Drill Chuck Arbor, for Number 3 Morse Taper Spindle

 
I found an MT3-JT4 for cheap... still don't know if I'm going to test this or not. I'll report back in my other thread about it so we aren't hijacking this one.
 

That looks like Gre-Tan, it is not a floating holder. It only adjusts the angle of the reamer radially not axially. Gre-Tan says the tail stock needs to be properly aligned. I’d say you are correct that Gordy is using the offset center to compensate for any tail stock misalignment.

 
IMG_9332.jpeg
MT4 shank was a fail…
I had to go back to the aluminum shank in the 1 1/4 boring bar clamp set up.
I never would have guessed that it would have slipped when you were rotating it one way and then another.
Knowing this pretty much eliminated any tailstock taper/taper attachments that were posted.
You never know till ya try.

God Bless,
Dustin
 
I found an MT3-JT4 for cheap... still don't know if I'm going to test this or not. I'll report back in my other thread about it so we aren't hijacking this one.

No intent to hijack, thought the OP would realize that you can make a reamer holder for the QCTP that is perfectly true to the the spindle, could even store it's position on the DRO in absolute mode or in a tool library. It would eliminate all those mechanical adjustment points that can shift.
 
Since you've already welded the front end of the adjustable piece to your adjustable reamer holder, why not just get rid of the shank all together. Turn off the snout on the back end of the adjustable piece and weld it to the block you made that mounts where the tool post goes. Looks like you could shorten up that mounting block about an inch too before welding. That would shorten up all the overhang also which would make things more rigid.
 
No intent to hijack, thought the OP would realize that you can make a reamer holder for the QCTP that is perfectly true to the the spindle, could even store it's position on the DRO in absolute mode or in a tool library. It would eliminate all those mechanical adjustment points that can shift.
I tried this. It gets it close but never perfect…
 
Since you've already welded the front end of the adjustable piece to your adjustable reamer holder, why not just get rid of the shank all together. Turn off the snout on the back end of the adjustable piece and weld it to the block you made that mounts where the tool post goes. Looks like you could shorten up that mounting block about an inch too before welding. That would shorten up all the overhang also which would make things more rigid.
This is a trial by fire experiment. When it is proven to my needs I will built a “nice one” without all the hiccups that you can’t see on this one…
In am using things I had laying around the shop to build this. I think I figured out a way to make the MT4 work. I really like the mt4.
I understand the shank is way too long on that one. But it’s what I had in the shop yesterday to try it.

God Bless,
Dustin
 
A co-ax indicator has been on my wish list for a while... Would a "good" one be accurate enough to dial in a rigid holder? Seems easier than hanging upside down from the ceiling with inspection mirrors to see a standard dti
 
If the Haas had more x travel i would mount it permanently. But 8 inches of x travel does not leave much for that sort of thing. No matter the mount you still have to be able to adjust it in all directions.
The aluminum shank will probably be swapped out for a mt4 shank. Or a solid metal shank. Aluminum is all I had in the shop yesterday.
I also thought about cutting in a female dovetail so it mounts to the qctp. I still may… But I wanted to get more chambers done with it before going down that road. Zero run out on a 10th indicator on the first chamber with it yesterday.
God Bless,
Dustin

With all due respect, zero run out on your chamber is most likely because your reamer became a boring bar! Imho Dave's pusher system is always going to be the set-up to beat. At least to me from a logical standpoint. Just my personal opinion and nothing more.
Paul
 
With all due respect, zero run out on your chamber is most likely because your reamer became a boring bar! Imho Dave's pusher system is always going to be the set-up to beat. At least to me from a logical standpoint. Just my personal opinion and nothing more.
Paul
But if his "boring bar" is perfectly aligned to the spindle..... and the barrel bore is perfectly aligned to the spindle..... then what?
I think we get a pretty good chance at making a really straight chamber.
I have CNC roots, so letting the machine do the tool holding comes naturally to me.
Pushers work great.
Sometimes I think it's more the artist than the paintbrush.
 

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