What brand of rear entry action wrench works? Is it better to manufacture your own? Thanks pluggednickel
Action Wrench
- Thread starter pluggednickel
- Start date
Spotcheck_Billy
I have a Davidson. It works fine. Just don't use a rear entry action wrench for first-time removal of a factory barrel. It's really easy to tweak some actions.
I have Nesika Bay actions and a Stiller action. Also I want to rebarrel my Trg-22 and other stock actions what would be good for those? Pluggednickel
Spotcheck_Billy
gamma said:
I use the Wheeler Engineering action wrench from Midway for first time barrel removals. It fits both the Rem. 700 and the Savage actions. It's often on sale for less than $50. I found that if I put one layer of heavy duty electrical tape on the jaw surfaces of the action wrench it will protect the finish of the action from scratching.
You can get a more nicely finished action wrench from Brownells that will do the same job at three times the price
I use a rear entry Davidson action wrench that I got from Sinclair for barrel removals once the factory barrel has been broken loose for the first time. The advantge here is that I don't have to remove the scope mount base from the action when I just want to pull a barrel.
LarryDScott
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For seperating a 700 Remington from a factory barrel, I recommend the rear entry wrench made by D. Holland. I have a custom made vise that locks the barrel and recoil lug in place, and first time removal is easily done. I have seperated a few hundred with this set of tools.
I made my own per the MacFarland book and used it hundreds of times before I made a better one.
The trick is getting the bolts in the same plane as the V block pushes down and the flat block on the bottom pushes up.
In order to do that, the front of the action wrench must be relieved to allow the action to slip back into the wrench far enough so that the front ring is in the same plane as the bolts.
If that relief is not cut, then there is a side load on the bolts, making them harder to turn, and the receiver is likely to get scuffed.
In the picture, the generation I per the book is on the bottom.
The generation II with relief cuts is on top.
The trick is getting the bolts in the same plane as the V block pushes down and the flat block on the bottom pushes up.
In order to do that, the front of the action wrench must be relieved to allow the action to slip back into the wrench far enough so that the front ring is in the same plane as the bolts.
If that relief is not cut, then there is a side load on the bolts, making them harder to turn, and the receiver is likely to get scuffed.
In the picture, the generation I per the book is on the bottom.
The generation II with relief cuts is on top.
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