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About to start a new stock project with Purpleheart wood.

Thanks for the advice.

Due to health issues I'm always very careful. I have a saw dust collector on the saws I use, I mount an additional wet dry collector above the saw, I open two windows on opposite sides of the basement and put a box fan blowing outside in the window closest to me, I always wear a good quality dust mask and I keep it on until after I've vacuumed and left the confined area.

Didn't use any of these safety precautions in my younger years. With age comes wisdom I guess, along with aches and pains!
 
Glad you found something interesting for this project, and that your safety-consciousness is already above average!

I can add only: do you have any allergies? PH can be sensitizing for some individuals, as well as tricky to glue up.

You might want to read this if you’ve not worked with it before.
 
I do appreciate all the comments and advise. Anytime I start thinking I know it all I just go and have a talk with the "better half". She has no problem clearing that up for me toot sweet!

I'm using Tite Bond III and I have two test pieces offset gluing. I'll hit them with a hammer after a day or two to see if I have a good bond.
 
After years in the wood working business, I noticed a MSDS at the big millwork that I use for moldings and the like. I chuckled and thought what could be more benign than wood. Boy was I wrong. I had been sick for months with a cold and Upper respiratory infection and been to 3 doctors only to find out saw dust was the problem. The MSDS had a few lines that said some thing like has been known to cause prolonged colds in workers exposed to the fine dust. My mother finally drug me to a good DR and he gave me strong enough antibiotics to kill the infection. Mahogany and most all of the exotics are way worse than pine and spruce and the more common construction woods. Purple heart is toxic and is a big no-no for spoons and bowls and anything that may come in contact with food.
 
I'm using Tite Bond III and I have two test pieces offset gluing. I'll hit them with a hammer after a day or two to see if I have a good bond.

Always worth a ‘destructive’ test cycle or two when dealing with ‘practice’ runs... at least where glue bonds are involved, not so much (if ever!) in shooting....

You find wood breaks before glue bond you’re doing it right. If glue joint fails leaving glue on facing surfaces, next test use acetone (in itself a solvent to use with caution!) to wipe freshly jointed surfaces before applying glue. Let the solvent pull any wood oil away from both surfaces, then dry before glueing.

This works 100% of the time w/teak, a notoriously difficult-to-glue-well wood.
 
...what could be more benign than wood. Boy was I wrong. I had been sick for months with a cold and Upper respiratory infection and been to 3 doctors only to find out saw dust was the problem. The MSDS had a few lines that said some thing like has been known to cause prolonged colds in workers exposed to the fine dust.

Our lungs just aren’t designed to easily clear themselves of debris the size of common wood dust particles. Keep in mind the average adult has lung tissue area on the order of a football field in size to do the oxygen/CO2 exchange we need to survive.

Just think about trying to “vacuum” that kind of area after you’ve been sanding all afternoon w/o respirator! (Why I gave up on ground walnut media for vibratory tumbling fired cases. Dry tumblers stay in garage, use corn media.)
 
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Think I'm going to be OK with the glue bond. These two pieces were glued offset and then pounded with a heavy mallet on a concrete floor. Both the wood and the Tite Bond III were stronger than I expected. First I tried numerous times(10+ hits) to break them apart with a large framing hammer before grabbing a heavy mallet. Took another 6-8 heavy hits with the mallet before the wood finally failed.

 
Blanks are cut and just did the layouts paying close attention to any grain defects or lamination gaps. Two more table saw cuts, two band saw cuts and then onto the router table. Since I'm waiting on new tires for my band saw I'll probably let the wood stabilize another day or two before doing those cuts.

 
TOZ a guitar neck is something that a duplicator works well on. The guy I got mine from, that was all he used his for.
 
Nice work!!! Purpleheart is incredibly dense and glues up solid. You'll need to fill the open pores similar to dealing with mahogany. The wood is a vibrant purple when it is fresh cut, but it will oxidize to a dull mute brown with exposure to light. Use a finish that contains a UV Inhibitor to slow this process.
 
Spent most of the morning in the basement setting up the rest of my woodworking equipment and finishing off the tablesaw and bandsaw cuts needed for now. Next will be a few hours with the router for shaping and creating the action and barrel opening. Had to try one router cut. Routers much easier than the Zebrawood even with my cheapo Chinese bits.

That's it for today though. Figure the cats might want to get down to their food and or the litter box and they sure don't like it when the saws, dust collection system, vacuum and stereo are going.



 
It'll be unique when done. I built this for a guy several years back.
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Sparky , wish I had your talent . If you really want to razz your buddies , get you some Pink Ivory Wood ! I have a BR Stock painted some unusual 57 Chevy Color which irks me every time I look at it . Will get a repaint one day . BTW , my favorite looking wood is Screwbean Mesquite .
 
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