A Question for the Learned about Corrosion

[Lenard]

I purchased a 527 223 HB in Carbon Steel. The accuracy dropped off at around 1000 rounds and it was replaced. Gunsmith said it was pitted in lots of places.

Carry this over to two days ago when my Lyman scope came in and I started evaluating the barrel. It was etched in close to 40% of the barrel. I had purchased the gun as new, which I doubted, After some work on my part, the gun easily shot 1/4" groups using a 40 v max and 2200 powder.

I had used some sweets on the gun early on and then went to wipe out. I would oil the barrel after cleaning and never let the sweets sit overnight.

I posted this on Saubier and one fellow suggested the 2200 powder might be the problem. So I emailed AA and they said they had never had anyone report a problem with etching and 2200 powder. What ever the situation, my stainless barrels are unaffected.

Have any one any experience with this powder as far as corrosion is concerned.

 

[jlow]

Would be interested to hear how you got rid of the sweets before oiling the barrel?

 

[Lenard]

Let me just say, my method has not created a problem with any other guns with carbon steel or stainless barrels. I dry patch after brushing for copper and then oil. We can discount the sweets. I know it is not from moisture. The only other chemical used is a Gumout product, Brake cleaner to remove carbon, then wipeout

 

[dkhunt14]

Sweets can pit a barrel pretty quickly if you don't get it cleaned out. Matt

 

[Ggmac]

Some combinations create an acid , good article in the old precision rifle magazines and I believe in the BENCHREST Primer .
I actually tried many combinations not listed , chlorinated non chlorinated , etc , I was surprised how many etched and how quickly .

 

[LHSmith]

Before I got into BR, one time I cleaned a .223 Rem 700 with CrM barrel using my borecleaner at that time- Shooters Choice. I bronze brushed it, set it muzzle down into a plastic cup, and squirted more SC through the bore guide. Left set for a few days, and upon checking it-the outside of the muzzle was coated with rust. A check with a borescope showed pitting at several places in the bore. I won't buy CrM bbls anymore -or- let any bore cleaners "soak" the bore for more than a few hours (never had the need to use the harsh stuff)

 

[243winxb]

Moly bullets? May trap moisture?

 

[savagedasher]

Sweets can pit a barrel pretty quickly if you don't get it cleaned out. Matt

I don't use cleaners that pit barrels. Larry

 

[jlow]

Sweets is 5% ammonia and you should remove it by more than just a patch. I’ve got a borescope and I can tell you that after cleaning a barrel and putting a dry patch down there is still significant moisture in the chamber area. I know you don’t believe this from what you said, but the fact that you are getting corrosion has to tell you something if you have put nothing else down the barrel. The fact that you oil your barrel has to tell you that it is not just simple rust due to moisture..

Sweets is aqueous i.e. it is water based and it will not mix with oil and oil will not dilute it. To get rid of Sweets, I would suggest putting water down the barrel or at least another cleaning solvent that is water based so that it can dilute it. The easiest is to put water down with a wash bottle follow by acetone which will then remove all the water. You can follow with oil if you like.

 

[savagedasher]

Sweets is 5% ammonia and you should remove it by more than just a patch. I’ve got a borescope and I can tell you that after cleaning a barrel and putting a dry patch down there is still significant moisture in the chamber area. I know you don’t believe this from what you said, but the fact that you are getting corrosion has to tell you something if you have put nothing else down the barrel. The fact that you oil your barrel has to tell you that it is not just simple rust due to moisture..

Sweets is aqueous i.e. it is water based and it will not mix with oil and oil will not dilute it. To get rid of Sweets, I would suggest putting water down the barrel or at least another cleaning solvent that is water based so that it can dilute it. The easiest is to put water down with a wash bottle follow by acetone which will then remove all the water. You can follow with oil if you like.

WD 40 displaces water Larry

 

[riflewoman]

I wouldn't rely on it to remove sweets from a fired barrel.

 

[savagedasher]

I wouldn't rely on it to remove sweets from a fired barrel.

I wouldn't use sweets Larry

 

[Hntndad]

What about the ol' hydrogen peroxide following sweets?

 

[savagedasher]

What about the ol' hydrogen peroxide following sweets?

The real question is why use annything corrosive to start with ? Larry

 

[Hntndad]

That's the better question. What do you use Larry?

 

[Lenard]

Guys, please understand that I have not used Sweet in near 5 years. When Wipe Out came out I started using it. I just checked a 25-06 and a Sako HB 243 which I have cleaned many times, and none have etching. So, that takes sweets completely out of the question as far as the etchings in the 527 barrel. So unless the powder is caustic, it has to be something else. Keep in mind, the longer we shot the 527, the quicker the accuracy dropped.

 

[Hntndad]

I dunno Lenard, I wouldn't entirely discount the possibility of sweets being a cause. As mentioned sweets is water based. Ammonia/oil based products can be left in a barrel for days and then removed/diluted with oil. Sweets followed by oil is a no go. Best to remove with Iso alcohol first then oil. Alcohol/water(sweets) are miscible. Im not saying your one, but how many have ruined a barrel cause the cleaning method and/or agent isn't understood. I use sweets. There is not a snowballs chance in Florida that if used correctly it will do ANY harm to a barrel. However, if I clean with sweets. Dry patch out and oil. I basically have the residual sweets mixed with oil left behind until next time it's cleaned.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

I dunno Lenard, I wouldn't entirely discount the possibility of sweets being a cause. As mentioned sweets is water based. Ammonia/oil based products can be left in a barrel for days and then removed/diluted with oil. Sweets followed by oil is a no go. Best to remove with Iso alcohol first then oil. Alcohol/water(sweets) are miscible. Im not saying your one, but how many have ruined a barrel cause the cleaning method and/or agent isn't understood. I use sweets. There is not a snowballs chance in Florida that if used correctly it will do ANY harm to a barrel. However, if I clean with sweets. Dry patch out and oil. I basically have the residual sweets mixed with oil left behind until next time it's cleaned.

Hold on. You said sweets followed by oil is a no go. Then you said sweets, dry patch then oil. Does the dry patch get all the sweets out? Do you use any kind of alcohol or whatever before you oil it? I use carb cleaner on a couple patches after sweets it seems to get it out but ive never had a problem with sweets i just dont use it much

 

[Hntndad]

No Dusty, I posted best to remove with Iso Alcohol then oil. (Or whatever miscible agent you prefer).

 

[Hntndad]

"if" I clean with sweets, Then dry patch, Then oil. You basically have the residual sweets mixed with oil sitting in your barrel. Best to clean sweets out first.