Exactly what I told you it was the other day
9X Fired Brass, 200 Yards Results - No Mandrel, No Annealing, No Neck Turning, No Tumbeling. Updated MOA
- Thread starter Mr Wick
- Start date
Lol. Thanks.Exactly what I told you it was the other day
I shoot a Remington 700 in 6mm Remington, it's a crow/chuck rifle, I still have 99% of all the brass I bought when I bought the rifle. I separated 60 cases to start, I shot until the barrel needed replaced, did that and still shooting.
I neck size, load hot and shoot, a great deal of my brass has been shot over 20 times.
That's awesome.
Wolfdog91
Silver $$ Contributor
Dang wish I could shoot that well
after 125 I'm a friggen mess on paperWhat are you shooting?Dang wish I could shoot that well
Mr. Wick...Nice shooting! Keep doing what you're doing...because it's working. Not because you read it on the internet, but because you TESTED it for yourself and the results don't lie. They might not be statistically significant to some people but that's all the more reason to just keep doing it until it doesn't work as well as something else...for YOU.
When someone says.."that'll never work", that's motivation to find out if they're right or just parroting what they've read or heard somewhere. Most of my BR "career" has been made up of testing and doing "what will never work." FWIW, I've gone as much as 50 firings on Lapua brass without annealing and that's stepping on the gas hard with it the whole time. The primer pockets were terrible when the necks finally gave out and accuracy suffered. But I'm just a short range shooter, too.
Nevertheless, I respect anyone who does their own testing and walks in their own footprints alone, successfully. This game is chock full of examples of things that "have to be done to win", and even when you prove them wrong, well, it was a fluke or it was the shooter or whatever. You get my point. Kudos to you for actually doing it rather than falling in line like a good foot soldier.
When someone says.."that'll never work", that's motivation to find out if they're right or just parroting what they've read or heard somewhere. Most of my BR "career" has been made up of testing and doing "what will never work." FWIW, I've gone as much as 50 firings on Lapua brass without annealing and that's stepping on the gas hard with it the whole time. The primer pockets were terrible when the necks finally gave out and accuracy suffered. But I'm just a short range shooter, too.
Nevertheless, I respect anyone who does their own testing and walks in their own footprints alone, successfully. This game is chock full of examples of things that "have to be done to win", and even when you prove them wrong, well, it was a fluke or it was the shooter or whatever. You get my point. Kudos to you for actually doing it rather than falling in line like a good foot soldier.
Thank you for that post. It's all about learning, testing, practicing, and then passing that knowledge and experience on to those that care to hear it. That's part of the process to me. Sharing what works.
Thank you as well! I fly against the wind a lot, so what I said is me speaking from experience. It's tough to convince people that what seemingly everyone says online MIGHT not be as true as they think. Just do you and test things that you think are worth your time. A lot of what you read is true and a lot is just not.
Except,, it's not right.Exactly what I told you it was the other day
You don't subtract cal, but bullet hole.
It wasn't 300yds (it was 200), and 66.836/300 is not .227 (it's .222787)(.223).
And what you're trying to define is in inches per hundred yards (IPHY), not minutes of angle (moa).
It was not .227moa
This is how it would work:
GROUP DIAMETER minus HOLE DIAMETER
If hole diameter was actually .264, then .671-.264 = .407 true group
Divide true group by distance ratio: .407/(200/100) for .204 IPHY
Convert IPHY to MOA: .204 x 0.955 for .194 MOA
Now measure actual bullet holes and find that your true group was not .407
I fixed my math. I've never heard of your method. I will look into it. Thank you.
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