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9mm won't fit

I started reloading handgun (38 sp) this spring. My brother was looking for plinking and farm pest ammo. I purchased a cartridge checker because I didn't have a revolver. I also purchased a Lee 3 die set, I will only load jacketed bullets. I was having problems getting a finished round to "drop" fit the cartridge checker. I went to the Lee website and watched a die setup video, the printed instructions that came with the die set were different. After following the video, ammo fits the cartridge checker. Interesting all of the rounds I loaded(using both die instructions) actually fit several different revolvers(S&W,Colt and a Dan Wesson) . I recently picked up a factory box of Rem 38 sp, going to run that box thru the cartridge checker and see if there is any tight fitting rounds. Yesterday I also acquired a new to me Ruger 357 so I will have a second way to check. Next I need a shellholder for my Auto prime, that will save me a lot of time.
 
Because of the shape of the hollow point I had to reset the seating dye to make sure I come out with the exact length it still bulges
(Sorry if I'm rehashing - didn't notice there were 3 pages until typing up this reply)

Can't necessarily go by OAL when you change bullets. You're likely hitting the rifling before the round gets fully into the chamber.

Bullets have different nose profiles. Which means the cartridge OAL when the ogive hits the rifling will be different for each. Do this: Take one of your truncated cone style bullets, and lightly push it into the muzzle of your pistol so you mark the bullet with scuff marks (assuming you can get to the muzzle - a muzzle device will preclude that; if so, use a sized case instead.) Do the same with a round-nose bullet. Set them both base down on a table and compare how high the marks are. (You can do the same with loaded rounds, if you prefer.) Ideally, I think you'll want a bit of clearance between bullet and rifling to ensure operation.

Be aware that seating deeper reduces case capacity and increases pressure; you might want drop a few tenths to a half of a grain of powder until you get a depth that works, then work it back up.

As to the bulge, that usually happens with handloads, as the sizing die generally goes a bit smaller than required (so it works with all chambers), so you get a wasp-waist profile after seating a bullet (which looks like the bullet has bulged the case.) If, after loading, you get scuff marks at that bulge and the case won't chamber, THEN you have a case bulge problem.
 
Just throwing my 2 in here... I have loaded tens of thousands of berry's bullets in 9mm 124gr FMJs at 1.150 and never had a single problem.... That hollow point OAL looks way to long , hodgens web page has some data for plated bullets...

Also with the ones I load I use lead data and their plenty fast enough because like lead their oversized to .356 instead of the normal .355... As others have stated you need to find the COAL for that bullet and if it's oversized like Berry's FMJs I suggest you definitely start low and work up or use lead data and do the same...
 
You need to find out want the exact C.O.L. is for that bullet. The picture you posted looks like the bullet is not seated deep enough.
 
You said in your other post you’re using the Lee Factory Crimp die. There shouldn’t be any bulge to cause an issue unless you’re using it wrong.

Seat the bullet deeper. Probably under 1.110 because of the sharp angle ogive.

If the sizing die reduces the mouth to the correct diameter, it will also reduce most of the body to that diameter (unless you have an odd, tapered sizing die; unusual for pistol dies.) That means when you seat the bullet, it will expand the case slightly where the bullet sits. The rest of the case remains smaller (plus the brass usually thickens as you head towards the base) leaving, at best a wasp-waist shape; at worst a bulge on one side of the case. A crimp die will do little to correct this, unless you crimp to the point that you swage the bullet smaller, which will cause other problems (undersize bullet diameter, lack of bullet pull, etc.)


This guy joined yesterday. I think he's just trolling.

Or he joined to get the info he needs to solve his problem. Everyone has a first post.
 
A crimp die will do little to correct this, unless you crimp to the point that you swage the bullet smaller, which will cause other problems (undersize bullet diameter, lack of bullet pull, etc.)




Or he joined to get the info he needs to solve his problem. Everyone has a first post.
Which is exactly what a Lee factory crimp die does, swage the case and bullet smaller with a carbide sizing ring, along with an adjustable crimp for the case mouth, causing more issues than solving. But the internet reloaders love them so it's useless to point out and debate their numerous flaws.
 
Which is exactly what a Lee factory crimp die does, swage the case and bullet smaller with a carbide sizing ring, along with an adjustable crimp for the case mouth, causing more issues than solving. But the internet reloaders love them so it's useless to point out and debate their numerous flaws.
Yep. Especially bad if you need slightly larger than usual cast bullets to eliminate leading. I have a .44 with a somewhat oversize bore that requires .433" bullets to properly fill the bore. Lee die swages them smaller and leading returns. Fine for the rest of my .44s and .45 Colts, but can't use them with that particular gun.
 
According to my spreadsheet of 311 dies I have measured:

A Lee 9mm carbide sizer is 0.370"
A Lee 9mm carbide factory crimp is 0.379"

----------------------------------------------------
According to my memory of doing an overload work up on every 9mm bullet and pistol powder combination:

You don't want cartridge to fit the chamber so tight that it will not fall in and fall out of the chamber without stiction.
 
This means that loaded 9mm ammo that is sticky in the chamber should be resized after loading.
The 0.379" carbide ring in the Lee Factory Crimp, gets the job done, and makes the hot ammo safer.
 

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