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8mm mauser bolts

I've looked through threads and couldn't find anything already discussed. My question is, are the bolts from 8mm mausers interchangeable between all the variants? I want to get a spare to put a more sturdy firing pin in. I'm just curious if I could get any 8mm bolt? I know handles can be different, is that all?
 
No, there are some that are shorter, such as the Yugoslav 48 and FN 24. Not sure about bolts from Turkey since they have several variants. And remember, bolts are rarely interchangeable on headspace.
 
No, there are some that are shorter, such as the Yugoslav 48 and FN 24. Not sure about bolts from Turkey since they have several variants. And remember, bolts are rarely interchangeable on headspace.
Ok that clears things up a little bit. Thank you. I guess I need to do some more research.
 
Why would you want a more sturdy firing pin? The originals seem to do just fine.

Most 98 actions are interchangeable, however I’d stick with the same model. Millions and millions of mausers were made and they can get quite confusing on differences. It took me like a week to figure out what timney trigger I needed.
 
I've never seen the firing pin not be strong enough. However you will want to upgrade the firing pin spring. I use 26# Wolf springs, shortens the lock time.
 
In my experience anything that will speed up a mauser's lock time is a good thing. A sturdier firing pin? What for?
 
Seems many disagree, but I found the Tubb Speedlock to help hugely. For one thing, it's perfectly straight; another, it reduced lock-time by 40%. I got it on sale, a $55 well spent. N
Unfortunately, David no longer makes them for the Mauser - only the 70 and 700. I have one and the difference is huge. The factory pin weighs far too much. If you contact David, you might convince him to run off a few, especially if a group buy or other means showed interest from a number of folks. I've seen others who posted interest.
 
In my experience anything that will speed up a mauser's lock time is a good thing. A sturdier firing pin? What for?
When I first got it the owner told me he was getting a lot of bullets that wouldn't fire (turns out it was milsurp ammo that he was shooting) however, he recommended I put in a better firing pin. So that's why I asked.

Clearly he wasn't as knowledgeable as thought he was. But I thought it couldn't hurt. So, I'm gathering from these replies that I shouldn't need to.
 
I've looked through threads and couldn't find anything already discussed. My question is, are the bolts from 8mm mausers interchangeable between all the variants? I want to get a spare to put a more sturdy firing pin in. I'm just curious if I could get any 8mm bolt? I know handles can be different, is that all?
I think that if you find a bolt for the mauser 8mm that you should take it to a good gunsmith who can check the headspace with it in your rifle. Anything else is a gamble imo.

FWIW, I have a FN late 1940s bolt action sporting rifle. The rifles original bolt had an oblong firing pin hole. I sent it to my gunsmith at the time to bush it. He hardness tested it and found it was way too hard and was concerned about lug shearing. It took a year but he found another FN bolt and took the fire control parts from mine to fit to the new one. It headspaced about .003 too short so he hand reamed the chamber by that amount. It works just fine. Take nothing for granted when you are substituting something like a bolt in your rifle imo.
 
If your rifle has excessive headspace such as could be caused by lug setback, The rifle will misfire from time to time, Only the extractor is holding the case in place against the boltface instead of the shoulder engaging the corresponding shoulder of the chamber. When the firing pin hits the primer it drives the case forward and loses its inertia and it's length of strike. A fired case will have the primer backed out of the primer pocket normally the same amount of excessive headspace measured in thousandths. So in other words, The primer will not be sitting flush anymore but is sitting slightly above the case head. If the lug embuttments are set back, The receiver is no longer serviceable, You can't true them up because Older Mauser's are case hardened and there is only a couple thousandths of hardened surface. Under that, The steel is too soft. Newer Commercial Mauser's do not have this problem, They are fully heat treated and use much better steel.
 

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