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7mm middle weight hunting build

nastynatesfish said:
I'd just stick with the 7-08. I have 2. Built one off a 338ein mag savage hog hunter and shoot 162-180 bullets out of it. Throater it long for them. I built a 7-08 out of a ruger m77 243. It shoots great! No feed issues, it shoots best at book oal.
Far right is the old hog hunter

Ruger

Unfortunately a 7-08 round will not fit into the magazine of the Tikka LSA55 donor action.

I chatted to my gunsmith yesterday and I took some dummy rounds. There's I major difference in length between a 6.5x47, 22-250 or a 6.5creedmore case with a 130gr SP bullet seated above the neck/shoulder junction but the 6.5x47 has the best characteristics in my opinion. Lapua brass available here, small primers and largest volume.

I'm 99% sure I'll cut the chamber 6.5x47 then throat it for either a 140 gr Berger hunting VLD or the cheaper 140gr rem corelokt

The 7mm-6.5x47 name leaves itself open to being called the 7mm Boing (7X47)

Delivery_boy
 
7mm creedmore gets my vote nice short OAL can seat well out to make the most of the case and avoid donuts. Can be formed easily out of 6.5 creedmore or even lapua palma .308 brass I want one. I don't see the point in going any smaller case dimension wise. I read that people tried 7mm wssm but were disatisfied with performance on the whole versus 6.5 wssm which has it's proponents.
 
savagedasher said:
7-08 260 rem Both you can buy factory ammo . Larry

Thanks Larry

Here in Australia both. 7-08 and .260 factory ammo are both hard to come by and expensive making handloading an absolute necessity. It's common to see 7-08 ammo for $70-80 a box of 20 rounds.

As I said previously I've decided on a 7mm wildcat based on the 6.5x 47 lapua case, dies and cases will be easy and lots of quality bullets to feed it.

Delivery_boy

Edit: also I do like GSPV's suggestion of calling it 7 mm EZ. ;D
 
just a quick update for anyone who's contributed here and is interested to follow the project

i picked up the magazine from the Tikka LSA55 as well as a 6.5X47 Lapua case the other day and ran the 7mm expander through it. I played with seating some 130gr Speer SP and 150gr Rem Corelokt bullets at 2.6"COAL, about the maximum i can fit in the steel magazine without doing permanent mods to it or removing the nylon spacer taking the magazine out to 2.9"

heres a picture of the 7X47 case loaded with a 130gr Speer SP next to a 7-08 case loaded with a 150gr Corelokt and a pic of the near 40year old woodwork. I can see the stock and metal work is going to be more work than the barrel and wildcat chamber :(





In my opinion the loaded round looks the business and i'm sure the 47mm case can launch it close to 3000fps with the right powder, probably ADI2208 (Varget to American readers)

Delivery_boy
 
I'm going to try to be behind you a few months. Please let us know what ends up,working for you.
 
Delivery-boy,
That round has a good look to it! I think you have made a great decision with the parts you have available. Please keep us informed as you develop load data for it. I am curious to know if it's performance meets that of the 7-08 with a few grains less powder like most of the other sharp shoulder rounds seem to.

Thanks
Scott
 
Delivery Boy, you are trying to reinvent the wheel to make a tika work. It is a very expensive proposition, custom dies to begin with, and custom reamers for the full length sizer and the finish reamer to cut the chamber.

However, I have chased my share of wild cats and will look forward to hearing of your progress.
 
ackleyman II said:
Delivery Boy, you are trying to reinvent the wheel to make a tika work. It is a very expensive proposition, custom dies to begin with, and custom reamers for the full length sizer and the finish reamer to cut the chamber.

However, I have chased my share of wild cats and will look forward to hearing of your progress.

;D

Thanks ackleyman

I completely understand what you're saying but I don't see it that way.

I could have bought another tikka T3 (I already have a T3 hunter stainless fluted in .308 and a varmint stainless in 7-08 with a .243 lite barrel and the .284w 28" target barrel)

But where would the fun be in that. :)

The cartridges parent case has been chosen for its efficiency and accuracy, I genuinely expect it to match the performance of my 7-08 with about 4-6grains lesspowder

This is also partly a test case for a proper target barrel for my hart BR gun as a windy condition alternative to my 6 BR for 500m fly shooting

To date the donor gun, barrel and gunsmithing will cost me less than a new a Tikka t3 lite. I've ordered brass and dies so in a week or so I'll be able to measure loaded rounds and have the chamber cut and the barrel threaded then I'll know more

Drlivery_boy
 
Custom dies, reamers, etc. are expensive. Let us know what your costs are when you finish the project.
 
Won't need custom dies. Modify 6.5x47. Might not even have to modify them.

Wouldn't even need a custom reamer. Can use a 6.5x47 and a throater.

That's part of the appeal.
 
Delivery_boy, I like your idea, 7x47. I think it's the natural progression of the 6.5x47, they already took it down a notch, so why not go up. I have a 10T 7mm barrel and a Rem 788 in 308 (for a donor) sitting in the corner collecting dust, I might talk to my gunsmith about the same project. That 308 is shoot out anyway, the previous owner shoot nothing but hot loads in it and you can't get a 220gr bullet to touch the lands without falling out the case plus he never believed in cleaning a gun either. Good luck with your build and let us know about your progress.

GSPV, I never thought about using a throater along with the 6.5x47 reamer. If you don't mind I would like to know more about this process.
 
RonS said:
Delivery_boy, I like your idea, 7x47. I think it's the natural progression of the 6.5x47, they already took it down a notch, so why not go up. I have a 10T 7mm barrel and a Rem 788 in 308 (for a donor) sitting in the corner collecting dust, I might talk to my gunsmith about the same project. That 308 is shoot out anyway, the previous owner shoot nothing but hot loads in it and you can't get a 220gr bullet to touch the lands without falling out the case plus he never believed in cleaning a gun either. Good luck with your build and let us know about your progress.

GSPV, I never thought about using a throater along with the 6.5x47 reamer. If you don't mind I would like to know more about this process.

Thanks RonS

The plan is to use a standard 6.5X47 reamer then run a 7 mm neck/throat reamer in to cut a .318 neck and throat for a 130gr Speer SP seated 2.400" or these abouts. That's the beauty if necking up rather than down. I plan on cutting the neck a little long so any case growth will add neck length by maybe .010"

The other thing is that i will be able to fit a .316" bushing into a 6.5x47 bushing f/l die and modify the seating die to allow me to use standard 6.5x 47 dies, saving yet more money.

Thanks for your interest

Delivery_boy
 
Exactly.

My plan is slightly different. My policy is that I own the reamer for every project that I take up. That's served me well.

I've identified several candidate bullets. I'm going to make up dummy rounds with them to get the COAL (this is a repeater hunting rifle with AI mags)mand freebore right. Based on what comes from that, I'll make up a couple of dummy rounds.

The dummy rounds will be sent to Dave Kiff to make the reamer.

I already have brass, bullets, AI mags, a 6.5x47L FL die, and a Wilson 7mm die blank in route to me.

The FL die will be modified, if required, by opening up the neck hole. The seater die will be made from the Wilson blank using the reamer. I've done this part several times, leaning heavily on Mike Ezell's experience, and it has worked well every time.

I have to do,some careful measurements on the stock to get the barrel profile exactly right. It is going on a donor Tikka T-3 action.

The Manners Tactical that I picked up on here is cut for the T-3 Varmint profile. It has bottom metal in it that takes AI mags. The lug is already made into it. It has had an action bedded into it. A pretty good job. I'll sand some out and skim bed my action into it.

It should make about 10 lbs with scope.
 
When i grow up I want to be just like you guys.... the knowledge just amazes me. My 788 is a complete rifle and the 7mm barrel should finish out at around 20". I have been thinking about using bullets up to 140gr. With the 10T how heavy of a bullet do you thing I can go? The plan is to use the original stock but add a really nice recoil pad. I'm hoping for a light weight, light recoiling fire stick for whitetail. What is the plan for load data, faster or slower powders using 6.5x47L data?
 
RonS said:
Delivery_boy, I like your idea, 7x47. I think it's the natural progression of the 6.5x47, they already took it down a notch, so why not go up. I have a 10T 7mm barrel and a Rem 788 in 308 (for a donor) sitting in the corner collecting dust, I might talk to my gunsmith about the same project. That 308 is shoot out anyway, the previous owner shoot nothing but hot loads in it and you can't get a 220gr bullet to touch the lands without falling out the case plus he never believed in cleaning a gun either. Good luck with your build and let us know about your progress.

GSPV, I never thought about using a throater along with the 6.5x47 reamer. If you don't mind I would like to know more about this process.


A throater alone, won't get it done. You'll also need a chucking reamer for the neck portion of the chamber. Aside from that, just run in the 6.5x47 reamer, open the neck, and throat it how you want it. A single reamer that does all three is easier but not absolutely necessary. Chucking reamers are available in virtually every imaginable size, in .001" increments. Just cut all three steps from the same setup and it works just fine. It takes a little more care but is very doable. If you don't already have the throater and chucking reamer, it's probably cheaper to buy a reamer. Chucking reamers are very inexpensive, though.--Mike Ezell
 
Thanks for clarifying, Mike.

I didn't want anyone to think that they had to have custom everything.

Speaking of that, could you elaborate a bit on modifying a standard, threaded seater. We haven't discussed that since early 30 Major days (because I use Wilson-type seaters).
 
GSPV said:
Thanks for clarifying, Mike.

I didn't want anyone to think that they had to have custom everything.

Speaking of that, could you elaborate a bit on modifying a standard, threaded seater. We haven't discussed that since early 30 Major days (because I use Wilson-type seaters).
Yes, Greg. If you're referring to making a standard type s Redding full length bushing die work for a 7x47, all one needs to do is open the hole in the die where the bushing sets to allow for a bit of clearance. In some cases, the die is already big enough here. <When it's not, I use a carbide chucking reamer to open the hardened die up. The only area being touched is the area where the neck goes through the die, before entering the bushing. It doesn't even have to be pretty, as it's clearance. I just in in a de-bur both sides of the shelf after opening it up, as to not gouge the brass and just to neaten things up a bit.


This is part of my reasoning for spec'ing most of my reamers around off the shelf and available Type S Redding dies, rather than using custom dies. Setting the reamer up to cut a chamber that works well with off the shelf dies works just as well as the other way around and standardizes things to a degree. Chambers that are too small pose more trouble than one that's slightly bigger. With this method and most chamberings, you have a "proper" die to chamber relationship without having to go the custom die route. The beauty is that Redding already offers dies for most cases and with just a very simple opening of the neck, you can have custom fits. PTG makes most of the resize reamers for Redding, so Dave has the die specs in most cases. You just decide how much sizing you want the die to do and spec the chambering reamer accordingly. Dave is a wealth of knowledge here.
 
I was talking about the seater die. There is something that you do there with a normal threaded seater die. I can't remember the brand or the specifics because I use the Wilson inline seaters.

With the inline seater, the procedure is pretty obvious. Buy a blank and cut it with your reamer.

But, there are a lot of people out there that don't like them.
 

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