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700 Modified Bolt for 6.5x284 Norma

Hello All:

Just received my new 6.5x284 Norma. It is built on a trued 700 action. When I pulled the bolt, this is what I found:

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BF3BC9F5-6B25-4BDB-BFEE-5BD1E59D80B5_zpsrlkho9ai.jpg


A0319285-EBD3-4ED2-8BF7-B6F565B06D56_zps61baonry.jpg


This really concerned me, so I sent an e-mail to the gunsmith. This was his response:

"Yes, we always relief the bolt face on the 284 Norma cartridges. If you don't then there are certain factory loads that won't extract properly since the rim is smaller than the case OD. Totally normal for a precision build in that caliber with tight tolerances. Been doing these rifles for years and I can assure you that the bolt in its current configuration will outlast multiple barrels.......

I recon if it bothers you we can replace the bolt with a non modified one, but I can guarantee you will have extraction issues with certain ammo. We have found this to especially be true with Norma brass."

This is my first 6.5x284. Do I trust his judgement? Anyone else modified their bolts like this?

Thanks!
 
I run a straight 284 win with a Rem 700 bolt and no modifications to the bolt. I use Norma, Nosler, WW and Lapua brass. Never had any extraction issues. My 6.5-284s are savage actions.
 
Basically, they cut pretty deep, the depression you're seeing is the lack of metal over the extractor. Again, not a necessity, but it's typically part of the "truing" process.
 
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Appreciate the feedback guys. I've never seen a 700 bolt that looked like that, but this is the first trued action I've ever owned.

They've built a pile of 6.5x284 rifles over the years so I'm sure they've run into all kinds of things. Personally I would have rather skipped that step, but I'm going to trust they know what they are doing and shoot the thing!

Thanks for chiming in and letting me know what you think. I appreciate it!
 
I don't true actions but I do like to true the face of the bolt,along with the lugs. The only real reason to true it is to make measurements easier in calculating the fit of the bolt nose. I like to keep those tolerances tight. But if I ever cut one that deep, I would be quite concerned with the extractor pulling out.

I agree with others who say that this should not be necessary. Indeed the 284 win cartridge has a slightly rebated rim but I'm not familiar with extraction problems with standard Remington bolt noses. Googling found guys with extraction problems but not blamed on the shell casing interfering with the bolt nose.

If it were me, I would accept their offer to swap it out. Make sure they check all dimensions with the new bolt.

Jerry
 
Update: I remembered that I have new norma 284 brass for an upcoming build. Tried the cases in 3 different 700 actions. 2 were fine but the 3rd failed to EJECT. Are you sure he didn't say eject rather than extract? The case ejects to about 45 degrees and then the lip of the bolt wedges in behind the rim....surprised me.

A very slight chamfer on the outside of the bolt would fix it. I may install a sako.

That said, I still don't like the exposed top of the extractor.

--Jerry
 
Update: I remembered that I have new norma 284 brass for an upcoming build. Tried the cases in 3 different 700 actions. 2 were fine but the 3rd failed to EJECT. Are you sure he didn't say eject rather than extract? The case ejects to about 45 degrees and then the lip of the bolt wedges in behind the rim....surprised me.

A very slight chamfer on the outside of the bolt would fix it. I may install a sako.

That said, I still don't like the exposed top of the extractor.

--Jerry

Hi Jerry,

That was a direct quote from the email. However, he did respond almost immediately and say he meant to eject in a reply...

I sent a second concerned email back, and his response was basically "if your average smith hasn't built a 6.5x284 they may have never experience this before."

Again - I haven't shot or cycled it yet. I saw the modification and instantly freaked out.

I hope to shoot it to find out more next weekend. If too much material is removed, what will happen?

Thanks again.
 
Maybe it is necessary as he claims, but that is ugly and scares me like something is not right or went wrong.
Maybe just me here, but kind of looks like a fix to a boo-boo.... but hope not.
Good luck
Donovan
 
My concern is that the extractor could pull out. Your photo is a bit fuzzy but it looks like the top of the extractor cavity is exposed.

Any other opinions out there on whether the extractor will be reliable in this bolt?

Like I say above, the right way to fix it would be to chamfer the outside corner of the bolt or install alternate extractor. The reason a sako or m-16 extractor will work is because it has less thickness for the case to pivot around when ejecting.

Here is a thread with a the same solutions recommended:

http://www.scout.com/military/snipe...hing/14497544-remington-700-ejecting-problems

Nobody recommended machining the end off the bolt.

thanks,
Jerry
 
My concern is that the extractor could pull out. Your photo is a bit fuzzy but it looks like the top of the extractor cavity is exposed.

Any other opinions out there on whether the extractor will be reliable in this bolt?

Like I say above, the right way to fix it would be to chamfer the outside corner of the bolt or install alternate extractor. The reason a sako or m-16 extractor will work is because it has less thickness for the case to pivot around when ejecting.

Here is a thread with a the same solutions recommended:

http://www.scout.com/military/snipe...hing/14497544-remington-700-ejecting-problems

Nobody recommended machining the end off the bolt.

thanks,
Jerry

Yeah.. It's more than a "light" bevel I would say.

If I'm going through getting a new bolt and resetting the headspacing, I don't think the rifle is going back to this smith. I will do a PTG 1 piece with a better extractor and be done with it. However, I'm still planning on giving this setup a go for a while and see how it performs. Hope to be able to shoot it next weekend and will post an update.

Thank you again for the insight and feedback. I appreciate the advice.
 
2 of the 3 bolts I tried ejected fine with no bevel.

No harm giving it a try. worst it can get is the extractor pulls out and you're done for the day. not a safety issue

jerry
 
You hopefully picked this smith for a reason , I wouldn't be second guessing him
. Trust the smith you sent it to .
 
As long as you have gone this far...
You should give some thought to using a one piece bolt.
Depending on how the lugs were done, it may be off enough to cause a very little if any primary extraction problem...
Better to have someone set up a 2 piece bolt for you...
 
The 'plumber would own that molested bolt.
Facing the bolt nose w/o concern to lug surfaces,breech face is shady work ethics.

If you have extraction problems....start at the source....the chamber that was cut w/ a brick.

A slight 45 degree break is all that is required on a Rem bolt nose for rebated case heads.
 
If it were my bolt, I would cut off the head and fit a Savage bolt head. Problem solved, plus a new head of any size can be fitted in minutes if case head size is changed in the future.

RWO
 
I am being of little help and no nothing about what they did but...That sure is ugly. Sorry.
 

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