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700 barrel work questions.

I have a 700 ppc sporter that I'm going to have changed back into a hunting rifle. I bought a new factory .473 bolt , and I have a clean factory.243 sporter take off bbl collecting dust here that I'm thinking of using. The ppc stuff will then be sold to help offset costs.

I'd prefer to have a 6 Creedmoor or 6CM because I think they're a better mouse trap fed from a S/A 700 mag box, but if the 243 bbl spins on without much fuss ( and is much cheaper ) I'm ok with that too.... atleast I have the dies on hand. So my question is, would the straight .243 option likely cost me as much to do as rechambering the 243 bbl, or rebarreling with a new bbl to my preferred cartridge? My action is supposed to be squared, but that's yet to be seen. I doubt very seriously if the factory threads have been changed. I assume my new bolt would need the lugs lapped into this action as well? Straighten me out here?... how would the average smith price this out? Which option makes more wallet sense for me?
 
contact @skeetlee on here. good work, reasonable pricing, and fast turnaround
 
You didn't say who made the bolt but if it's from PT&G it will be different dimensionally than a factory bolt. If a PT&G bolt there will be a good bit of work fitting the new bolt with your barrel. Without having all the parts for inspection there is no way a smith can price this out for you. To many variables.
 
I have a 700 ppc sporter that I'm going to have changed back into a hunting rifle. I bought a new factory .473 bolt , and I have a clean factory.243 sporter take off bbl collecting dust here that I'm thinking of using. The ppc stuff will then be sold to help offset costs.

I'd prefer to have a 6 Creedmoor or 6CM because I think they're a better mouse trap fed from a S/A 700 mag box, but if the 243 bbl spins on without much fuss ( and is much cheaper ) I'm ok with that too.... atleast I have the dies on hand. So my question is, would the straight .243 option likely cost me as much to do as rechambering the 243 bbl, or rebarreling with a new bbl to my preferred cartridge? My action is supposed to be squared, but that's yet to be seen. I doubt very seriously if the factory threads have been changed. I assume my new bolt would need the lugs lapped into this action as well? Straighten me out here?... how would the average smith price this out? Which option makes more wallet sense for me?
if you buy a factory bolt that fits in your action and use your existing factory barrel that would likely be the cheapest
option. u mite get lucky and headspace would be ok or if not it could be adjusted pretty easy. you could get the factory barrel rechambered to a diff cartridge alot cheaper than a new barrel and chamber job since you dont have to spend 3 or 400 on the barrel but id never pay someone to rechamber a factory barrel -- just depends on what kind of preformance you want. Im no gunsmith but i imagine the price would be in the 300 to 1000 range
 
It's a brand new Remington factory bolt, and although this rifle left the factory as a .243... this bbl has never been on this receiver. I slid the new bolt in the receiver, and closed it on an empty chamber for what that's worth. I heard back from a local smith today , and the std .243 option is looking the best for my needs.
 
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It's a brand new Remington factory bolt, and although this rifle left the factory as a .243... this bbl has never been on this receiver. I slid the new bolt in the receiver, and closed it on an empty chamber for what that's worth. I heard back from a local smith today , and the std .243 option is looking the best for my needs. He said my factory sporter bbl hasn't got enough meat to cut off and rechamber to the cartridges I mentioned, but he may have something used on hand if I'm interested.
You could probably sell the action with bolt for 300 to 350 and with the money you’ll spend buy a new factory gun if that would work for you.
 
I think if you use the same recoil lug you will probably need just a bit of "tweaking" to get everything into specs'. Please keep in mind that this factory .243 barrel
will probably not shoot anywhere close to your PPC barrel, but you likely knew that already.

R
 
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I have chambered a lot of barrels and factory barrels aren't worth re-chambering for the most of the time
just put the 243 barrel on and if you need to just the head space you can do it by buying a recoil lug
from ptg most of those barrels will shoot 1/2 to 1.1/4 moa cheapest way . but if you want a 6mm cm
I like it . new barrel will make you happier in the long run. I am just saying !
 
almost impossible to re set up on a factory rem 700 barrel. Not sure how they dial those things in. Probably just a center would be my guess? i used to try it some but anymore i just wont do it. I dont like wasting peoples money for them.. Working folk work to hard to spend it needlessly Lee
 
Just going with the factory 243 would be the easiest, hence, least expensive, thing to do. If the action has not been altered much, headspace should be within limits. If the receiver has seen much remedial work, all bets are off but you would be able to tell via measurement before the barrel is installed.
If one is to re-chamber a factory barrel to 6 CM, the barrel has to be set back far enough to eliminate all of the original neck and throat. If the chamber is perfectly co-axial with the bore, set up is easy enough but this doesn't happen all that often. Bottom line? I would just stick with the 243. WH
 

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