7.63x39 lapua to 6.5 grendel

[Minesweeper3433]

Ok so right now it is just over a dollar a peice for the 6.5 grendel brass from lapua. However it is almost half that for the 7.62x39 brass from lapua. Was wondering if I can get even half the normal life of lapua brass after forming it down to 6.5 grendel. In fact on midway the lapua brass is almost as cheap as the winchester is right now wich is why I am looking at working on this rifle right now. I never shot it because ammo for it was too much. Also forming would be done with factory FL die and then fireform with 100 BT noslers. Also I have never formed brass from one caliber to another this would be my first go at this but it is really cheap compared to the other options out there for me.

 

[David2]

7.62x39 to 6.5 Grendel is easy to make.
Redding sells forming dies for 7.62x39 to 6 PPC, but to 6.5,
But this tell you that it’s possible. You need to make your own forming die.
I took a junk 243 sizing die removed the decapping rod, cut off .400 from the base, drill
the neck to .295. Now lube the brass outside and resized about 90% of the case and
then into the 6.5 Grendel full length die.
The 243 die with 20 degree should works very good necking down.
I practice with 308 brass found at the range.
Finding a junk 260 Rem die is next to impossible.
I used a cut off 243 die to make 6x47 Lapua brass using 22-250 Winchester
brass, my varmint ammo(350 cases).
Once you practice with junk brass like 308 or 30-06 to just neck down, you will soon see that
it’s easy to make. I believe it’s the 20 degree shoulder that makes neck forming easy.
With junk 243 dies all over the place, it’s cheap to play with. Try this, take a 243 or 308
or 30-06 junk brass, cut off the base to make a ½ inch riser. Now run a lube junk 7.62x39 brass
into your 243 dies, I took the small screwdriver to push out the case.
When I say junk brass found at the range, the outside is well cleaned and polished.

David2

 

[Minesweeper3433]

Ok thanks for the info I will save for use later. I was also considering a 7mm-08 build later down the road as I have a 7mm blank and tons of 308 brass. I just cant figure out how the AK brass from lapua is half the price of all the other calibers.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Have you considered the Hornady 6.5 Grendel brass? I hear it lasts about half as long as Lapua Grendel brass, but costs about half as much. FWIW--Mike Ezell

 

[Minesweeper3433]

I checked out there prices and they are almost the same as necking down the lapua 7.62 cases. I am also considering bying 100 rounds of loaded hornady ammo and just shooting that for fun one day and saving the brass.

 

[bwaites]

Where are you buying brass? Direct from Alexander its $64.50/100 for Lapua and $60/100 for Hornady.

http://www.alexanderarms.com/item/13/43/65GrendelBrass.htm

Fireforming for the Grendel makes no sense, unless you have lots of high quality 7.62x39 that you paid nothing for!

 

[jonbearman]

If you use remington brass it has the small primer pocket I believe. I think its a viable idea,why not give it a try. I have formed plenty of cases using the fl die in question. The only thing that can happenis you will ruin one case if it doesnt work.

 

[Minesweeper3433]

Thanks for the link to AA I never thought to look there as I thought they would be higher for some reason. : I usually do all my shooting shoping on Midwayusa so didn't think about looking around. For that price I would rather just order from thanks again gyes for the help and especially for the link to AA.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Bill,
Hopefully AA's service had gotten better than when I last used them. After having problems with them more than once, I gave up and just ordered the Lapua. AA is good brass...Lapua with AA headstamp, and the price is right. Just ask when to expect it and hope they are right. I don't so much mind waiting if I know there is a wait. Be prepared. I waited over a month for brass when they said it was in stock. They said they just didn't have time to ship it. I cancelled the order and bought Lapua. True story--Mike

 

[15Tango]

Spot on about AA's customer service. If they have it in stock go for it. Also, they do offer a military discount if that applies to you.

If you end up going the fire forming route go with Lapua's 7.62X39, the Winchester primer pockets loosen up way too easy and cost the same. Kick it through the full length die, load it a little light and fire away. I've found they feed from the magazine somewhat well when unformed, they do sometimes tip down and not want to feed though.

 

[bwaites]

AA is a little company. Their footprint in the market has been much larger than their actual size would seem to indicate. They are incredibly busy, and as noted, their shipping might sometimes lag.

They do get behind on shipping, and it is something they are really working on, but never the less, it happens.

They have recently added some new staff is hopes of helping to remedy some of that problem, though.

Last time I checked, they had both AA/Lapua and Hornady brass.

PS, calling to order almost always works better than ordering online!

 

[Ledd Slinger]

There's a guy in the classified's now selling Alexander 6.5 Grendel brass for $80 per 100 shipped. Like stated before, Alexander brass is just custom stamped Lapua brass.

I dont actually have a 6.5 Grendel, but i use that brass to form a wildcat cartridge for a custom rifle. I'm always on the look out for 6PPC cases as well. 6ppc can easily be made into 6.5G. I got a good deal on some new Norma 6ppc cases a while back in the classifields here.

 

[243Mendoza]

isn't the AA brass necks thinner than lapua?

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

isn't the AA brass necks thinner than lapua?

The original AA brass was indentical to Lapua in every respect but the headstamp. They later headstamped Hornady brass with their name on it. Obviously, that brass would be very different than the Lapua.

 

[mac86951]

Sorry I haven't read all the thread;
I form 7.62x39 to 6.5 Grendel:

I set the 6.5 Grendel die up approx 4 turns above the shell holder and start forming the neck. Imperial die wax on just the neck. This irons out the dents of what I picked up at the range. About 1 in 6 collapses, I guess a 7.62 mandrel would be a good idea first.

Then I reset the die to proper headspace and run them again. Forms them up great. Keep lube off the shoulder to keep from denting.

I then fire for with 29 gr of cfe223 with an 85gr Sierra and CCI 200 (my 7.62 brass is large rifle primer). Feeds great from my AR in Grendel mags and is a fun plinking load.

-Mac

 

[Kiwi Greg]

FWIW the Lapua 7.62 x 39 brass has less internal volume than the Grendel case when fire formed, it weighs more.

The bonus is you can use big primers to get some performance back.

The Norma 6.5 Grendel brass has a bigger diameter head than the Lapua & its weights are much much more consistent

Oh & the necks are thicker

 

[rockrat]

I use x39 Lapua brass for my Grendel. I bought some new x39 brass on this site, but before that I have some Lapua x39 ball ammo I shot in a bolt gun and saved the brass for my Grendel upper.
I use a Lee size die which I set for once fired Grendel cases to size them to where I can chamber them in my Grendel upper, then turn the die down an additional 1/8th turn or so. If I don't turn it down a bit more, the X39 formed cases won't chamber. Then I take the unsized x39 brass and I size them ( just lube and run into the size die) and then they will chamber in my upper. I fireform and then when sizing I use a Redding size die set to where my cases will just chamber in my upper.
Works well. I used to use IMI cases till I cam across the Lapua brass. I usually shoot 90gr speer bullets, right at 3k fps.

 

[Sniper338]

Just buy the lapua brass it pays for itself... Ive gotten 30 reloads off a bunch, and yea from an AR. Anneal!! Shit last forever.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

I use x39 Lapua brass for my Grendel. I bought some new x39 brass on this site, but before that I have some Lapua x39 ball ammo I shot in a bolt gun and saved the brass for my Grendel upper.
I use a Lee size die which I set for once fired Grendel cases to size them to where I can chamber them in my Grendel upper, then turn the die down an additional 1/8th turn or so. If I don't turn it down a bit more, the X39 formed cases won't chamber. Then I take the unsized x39 brass and I size them ( just lube and run into the size die) and then they will chamber in my upper. I fireform and then when sizing I use a Redding size die set to where my cases will just chamber in my upper.
Works well. I used to use IMI cases till I cam across the Lapua brass. I usually shoot 90gr speer bullets, right at 3k fps.

That's a ton of shoulder set back! We're talking about at least .010" repeatedly. Way too much! Not sure of your setup but the area of x39 brass that stops it from chambering in a Grendel chamber are the neck/shoulder junction is further forward by, IIRC, about .015" and obviously, the neck diameter.

Having worked a lot with a 30 caliber Grendel(aka 30 Major), I've formed a lot of brass from x39 brass for it. Assuming sufficient neck diameter of the chamber, the only thing that keeps it from chambering in a 30 Major is the neck shoulder junction length. There is absolutely no reason to bump the shoulder back at all, at the datum of the x39 for it to chamber. My guess is that your problem comes from the necking down operation somehow. I don't know your setup so I can't be certain of how your dies perform at this.

My only point is that you should not have any need for pushing anything back further than just far enough for the x39 brass to chamber. Once fireformed, you need only push the shoulder back a couple of thou at the most, for good brass life.

Also, while x39 brass seems cheap, if you don't lose it first, the Lapua 6.5 Grendel brass lasts long enough, with proper die adjustment, to far overcome the extra cost with extra brass life, vs any other brass I've used. This is particularly true in a bolt gun, where pressures can be run way higher than in an AR platform...50k psi vs roughly 68K psi. Bolt lugs WILL break...probably on the very first firing, in an AR15 at that pressure. Hopefully, that's all that breaks!

I'd be very careful about pushing the shoulder back more than absolutely necessary if you want it to be safe and last very long. The only are that needs to be pushed back is the neck/shoulder junction, which is above the datum.