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7-6.5prc, what's the word ?

Firstly excuse my ignorance, I'm not up to speed on all things F class. I run a 284w for "long" range steel bashing, and a bit of informal 500/600 target. In looking for a replacement, rather than simply re barreling, my eye has been drawn to improved brass life and availability of PRC brass, and thus the necked up 6.5 to 7 variant.
I read of issues between different reamer specs, tolerance issues causing clickers; has this all been ironed out, and if so, what's the simple solution?
 
I would read all the previous posts on the subject....
There are many things to keep in mind with the 7-6.5PRCW and Variants.
 
I would read all the previous posts on the subject....
There are many things to keep in mind with the 7-6.5PRCW and Variants.
I've read as much as I can find, but with the exception of information on reamer specs at leade to minimize/decelerate carbon build up, there appears no clear cut "golden path" ?
For context, I'm weighing up this versus simply doing a straight 6.5prc, as it's only for informal steel out to a mile.
 
I've read as much as I can find, but with the exception of information on reamer specs at leade to minimize/decelerate carbon build up, there appears no clear cut "golden path" ?
For context, I'm weighing up this versus simply doing a straight 6.5prc, as it's only for informal steel out to a mile.
Choosing a 7mm cartridge of any sort will give you the advantage of a ballistically better bullet than any 6.5 cartridge.
The choice in the current popular 7-6.5PRC is Alex Wheeler’s reamer, now released to the public with a 1* leade or Erik Cortina’s version with a 1.5* leade.
AW”s reamer was designed to specifically use Berger 180 Hybrid’s and apparently the only one he has specked with only 1* where most reamers use a 1.5* angle.
You can now buy ADG 7-6.5 PRCW {the W seen on most designations for this cartridge refer to Mr Wheeler} or neck up any 6.5 PRC cartridge in either a “Neck Turn” or No Neck Turn” configuration.
Which ever reamer for the 7PRCW you choose, for your purpose, will not make any appreciable difference..
Keeping velocities around 2’850 - 2’900 fps will keep the “Clickers” away..
 
Just remember that you will need a different bolt to change from 284 to the prc.
Yea, that too….^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
But you will gain a stronger case as the 284 is a rebated case so does not support the brass as well and primer pockets suffer especially if driven hard.
 
I have a magnum bolt face action. I think my main reason for not just rebarreling in 284 again is my feeling I'd appreciate the more robust brass. I've found the primer pockets to slacken faster than ideal, running a 184 LRHT at 2810 out of a 30" barrel with N555.
 
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I have a magnum bolt face action. I think my main reason for not just rebarreling in 284 again is my feeling I'd appreciate the more robust brass. I've found the primer pockets to slacken faster than ideal, running a 184 LRHT at 2810 out of a 30" barrel with N555.
I’m driving the B-184’s at 2’790 and the 180’s 2’815 with a .280AI with a 32” barrel and if you have a long action that is another choice for a 7mm build..
 
Your overall length will be somewhere around 3.140 to 3.160 im thinkin depending on how you seat them
and i have no clue for magazine length. Never use em.
My freebore is .240 and i seat them .020 back more or less from touch.
 

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