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6XC Norma brass in a Gen 1 chamber?

Is there any way Norma 6XC brass can be shot in a chamber cut with a Gen 1 reamer (without getting sticky bolt syndrome)? Or is the only way to recut the chamber with a Gen 2 reamer?
Thx
 
Is there any way Norma 6XC brass can be shot in a chamber cut with a Gen 1 reamer (without getting sticky bolt syndrome)? Or is the only way to recut the chamber with a Gen 2 reamer?
Thx

A really tight chamber is nice in some things ;), but when it comes to rifle chambering I prefer a good fit. IMHO the best way is to cut it with a Gen 2 reamer. Also, I'm a bit surprised that you or your gunsmith didn't have a few new resized cases on hand to check for ease of chambering before accepting it. I learned the hard way too. Had to send a barrel back to have it recut after using a gen1 a few years back. Wrong reamer was used the first time. :( WD
 
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...I'm a bit surprised that you or your gunsmith didn't have a few new resized cases on hand to check for ease of chambering before accepting it.

Probably wouldn't have helped. Resized cases may still chamber easily, but reloaded & fired the case body doesn't spring back enough to allow easy extraction.

Rather than having a barrel's chamber re-cut, see if you can't borrow (buy if you must) a 308 small-base die, run fired brass thru that first then re-size as before.
 
Probably wouldn't have helped. Resized cases may still chamber easily, but reloaded & fired the case body doesn't spring back enough to allow easy extraction.

Rather than having a barrel's chamber re-cut, see if you can't borrow (buy if you must) a 308 small-base die, run fired brass thru that first then re-size as before.
Not meaning to high jack this thread, but I will be having a barrel chambered up in 6xc. What exactly is the difference between the gen1 and gen2 reamers? Does anyone have prints of both to compare? Are the reamers stamped differently for identification? Any help on this would be very much appreciated. Thanks Lonnie
 
Not meaning to high jack this thread, but I will be having a barrel chambered up in 6xc. What exactly is the difference between the gen1 and gen2 reamers? Does anyone have prints of both to compare? Are the reamers stamped differently for identification? Any help on this would be very much appreciated. Thanks Lonnie

Gen 1 has a smaller base diameter used when forming 22-250 brass to 6xc. Gen 2 is for using larger diameter brass made from 308 brass or Norma 6xc brass
 
js2013's correct. I can add David Tubb developed the Gen 1 reamer design with Hugh Henriksen. I have one of Hugh's reamers, the last design iteration was 7/03 according to him.

Robert Whitley III came up with the Gen II profile several years later.

That Gen I chamber can function nicely with the Norma brass; when I'd used it (after much tribulations with the Tubb-stamped stuff before Norma got hired) I found it to be very good stuff but its relative scarcity early on pushed me into making 6XC from Lapua's then new Palma brass.

LOT'S of work there but worth it! Now with the 6.5 Creedmoor they produce there's an easier path.
 
Ah I use Norma brass in mine with out too much trouble. I shoot a HOT load of RL17 and it runs them just fine and some case that have been shot with this HOT load 6-7 firings I get a little click at the top of the bolt lift..NOT a big deal.
Here is my chamber print. now I guess if you are tighter at the 200 mark like .269 or .2695 it maybe worse I don't know.

Just so you know I have seen a lot of rifles with a hot load have that click at the top of the bolt lift..quite a few actually not exclusive to the 6XC
The 6XC II is 4714 at the 200 mark.
You could have the gunsmith polish the back of the chamber slightly. It does not take much to go .0014 problem solved..I had the XCII chamber and this one I really did not see much difference in shooting either. I like this chamber works great for the 105's.
 

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actually I had a friend who had a 7mag and with a light load it had a hard to open bolt. after a lot of deliberation he decided the back of the factory chamber was rough causing his problem so he made a tight fitting patch and wrapped it with 600 sandpaper and a slight few turns and his problem was solved..he now runs wide open loads no problems.
I caution you it does not take much at all to take a lot out..best left to a experienced Gunsmith. but it can be done quite easily.
 
I think much depends on your chamber's dimensions as to whether any one brand'd work better than another.

My experience was with an RCBS and a Redding. The latter I sold, the RCBS worked well for me for the period during which Norma's brass was all I had available.
 
Here is my chamber print. now I guess if you are tighter at the 200 mark like .269 or .2695 it maybe worse I don't know.

My reamer is almost exactly like yours except the throat. The 200 point is also .470. I'll check the chamber to see if it's rough. A very slight polishing may be helpful. Thanks for your help.
 

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