6mm Dasher case forming delima

[tooter]

Need some help folks, first time doing this.

Trying to prep some Lapua 6mm Norma brass for fireforming. Have epanded neck to .25 and trying to create a false shoulder for fire forming by resizing down to .269 but can't get down far enough on the neck to allow bolt closure. Using Wilson and Reding bushing dies ---- what die(s) do I need to get farther down on the neck?

Help,

Tooter

 

[alf]

I use bushing dies without any problems.

Try sneaking the die down further till the bolt closes with some resistance.

 

[tooter]

Alf,

I'm using Dasher dies --- uhhh, should I be using a normal 6mm BR die to get down on the neck?

Tooter

 

[alf]

Nope, you've got what you need.

I use my Dasher die also. From my die setting to bump the shoulders back a thou, I typically put a .015 shim under the die to get a good crush fit for fireforming.

You don't by chance have a tight necked chamber?

 

[tooter]

Alf,

The neck is a .272 no-turn.

The bolt doesn't quite make it into the lug lead-in range but it seems real close. I can't be more than a few thousands away from full rotation and lock-up. This is a spanking new BAT rig and though I'm using Jet-Lube copper base anti seize, I'm just ohhh so concernrd about gaulling the lugs.

Tooter

 

[TheBlueEyedBear]

Do you have the proper screws in your scope base?
Ground to the right length?

 

[rayporter]

question
is your shellholder hitting the bottom of the die?

 

[benjamin199]

I ended up using my standard 6br die backed out just enough for a moderate resistance when closing my bolt. Are you getting stopped by the shoulder area or the die hitting the shell holder?

 

[rustycj8]

Tooter, I had the same problem recently when I was forming some .17-.204 brass. I couldn't quite neck down far enough to get it to chamber. Finally realized I could not get the bushing in far enough so I put another one on top to push it down farther. Hope this helps. Dave

 

[tooter]

Guys,

Thanks for all the input.

Checked and the receiver scope mounting holes are blind, so no screw protrusion.
Die definately bottomed out on shell holder.

Last resort was to order a no frills Redding Type S Bushing Neck Sizer Die 6mm BR (Bench Rest). Hope this will gain me more adjustment latitude going forward.

I know I likeky gave up to soon, but I'm anxious to start shooting and start wringing out this barrel/cartridge combo. I already successfully did so with the 223AI barrel.

Thanks again,

Tooter

 

[alf]

Shorten your shell holder .010"

 

[4xforfun]

Take the top off of your die and put another bushing on top of your current bushing and put the top back on the die untill it bottoms out on the buttons and try it again.

 

[queen_stick]

you could just load with the bullets jammed hard into the lands and shoot... no stepped necks. Worked well for me with a no-turn .272 neck.

 

[queen_stick]

Take the top off of your die and put another bushing on top of your current bushing and put the top back on the die untill it bottoms out on the buttons and try it again.

What exactly would that do aside from raising the stem? The bushing can't move down into the die body any further.

 

[rustycj8]

queen-stick, On mine the stem wouldn't push the bushing down far enough so putting the other one in there puts it closer to the shoulder. Good luck, Dave

 

[4xforfun]

Take the top off of your die and put another bushing on top of your current bushing and put the top back on the die untill it bottoms out on the buttons and try it again.

What exactly would that do aside from raising the stem? The bushing can't move down into the die body any further.

Not sure of your routine, but when I size them back down, i remove the decapping rod. With out it (which also removes the lock nut on the rod) the bushing is able to float up and down in the die, which in turn will not let you size down the neck far enough. The second bushing just takes up the space that the lock nut took, which holds the bushing down, keeping it from floating.

Hope that makes sence.

If you left your decapping rod in....never mind.

As far as just loading the bullet to a hard jam and shooting with out the false shoulder......I recomend against it. There have been a few very lengthy disussions on the subject over on BR Central. It has been proven that even with a very hard jam, the strike of the firing pin WILL push the bullet in slightly resulting in poor consistancy in the brass. I have not done the experament, but was convinced none the less and just simply creat a false sholder. It takes very little extra time, and only needs to be done once.

 

[rayporter]

the new die may cure the problem.
however there is still a fair chance you need to read the last post by Alf.

 

[queen_stick]

4xforfun

got it now... makes perfect sense. thanks for the explanation.

I have only used the jammed method, and have had no problems with it. I'm forming the brass for a varmint rifle, so I'm not too concerned about some of the variables that we look at in BR-grade cases. I agree that the stepped shoulder method looks like the best route to go, but I don't want to take the time for all that sizing when I don't need to. I may do it differently (stepped necks) if I get a BR gun chambered in a Dasher.

Walt

 

[fdiazverde]

That is the way to go hard jum to the land & fireform as many as you want.frank