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6br lapua brass ( blue box)

josebd

Silver $$ Contributor
I loaded this round to see if it would chamber and eject like it should.
Chambered ok but rejecting it took a little force, bolt lift is fine it's extracting , especially after firing a round,takes a little force knocking the bolt handle back.
It's done this ever since I had it built, Wilson barrel , 26 inch, 104 freebore,272 neck
It measures .4705 at the base
Savage model 10 action
20251111_075054.jpg20251111_075049.jpg20251111_075041.jpg
 
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Google - savage model 10 Improper primary extraction timing.

Improper primary extraction timing in a Savage Model 10 rifle is typically caused by incorrect clearance between the rear baffle (primary extraction cam) and the bolt handle's camming surface. This often results in a hard bolt lift, where the case is difficult to extract from the chamber.
 
I loaded this round to see if it would chamber and eject like it should.
Chambered ok but rejecting it took a little force, bolt lift is fine it's extracting , especially after firing a round,takes a little force knocking the bolt handle back.
It's done this ever since I had it built, Wilson barrel , 26 inch, 104 freebore,272 neck
It measures .4705 at the base
Savage model 10 action
View attachment 1711049View attachment 1711050View attachment 1711051
Put an over sized ball in the extractor. Tommy Mc
 
My guess is it's Lapua Brass, and probably the reamer you chambered with. My guess is if you use Remington BR brass this wont be an issue, but it won't take the loads the Lapua will either. But make no mistake, it aint from the Savage extraction system, unless your bolt timing is off, if so that's your gunsmiths fault. I load my Savage as hot as any action is loaded for, but timing does not cause the tight spot you see on that base!!

I have run into this with a 6BR, only using Lapua brass. It was the reamer my smith uses to cut them. It's a great reamer, but it is tight in the base for the Lapua brass, works great with Remington brass. But the fix was simple, just polish the very back of the chamber with super fine Emery paper on a wooden doll split to hold it and barrel spinning in the lathe. This doesn't take much and the material removed isn't even measurable, talking maybe a couple ten thousandths, but it works in the BR cartridges.

Seems the Lapua brass is slightly larger in the solid part of the base. This was dated back to when Fred Sinclair still chambered barrels, and was a trick he used. But today most custom reamers are ground to accommodate the better Lapua brass.
 
That's what I was thinking of doing next, I rechecked my headspace, it's good, I put a .030 feeler gage shim in between the baffle and action, didn't help.
It does fell like the chamber is tight
Thank you so much wildcatter, I really appreciate your help
 
If you buy a Lee 45 acp carbide resizing die and run the problem brass through it, it will resize the base of the case enough to eliminate the tight fit.
Cheap and requires no lube so not much of an inconvenience.
 
If you buy a Lee 45 acp carbide resizing die and run the problem brass through it, it will resize the base of the case enough to eliminate the tight fit.
Cheap and requires no lube so not much of an inconvenience.

This won't work for the Lapua brass issue. This is the lowest part of the solid head on the brass, which is slightly fatter than most US manufactured heads. They work well for fat chambers, but not when a solid head is to large for the chamber.
 
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This won't work for the Lapua brass issue. This is the lowest part of the solid head on the brass, which is slightly fatter than most US manufactured heads. They work well for fat chambers, but not when a solid head is to large for the chamber.
For the $27 of a 45 acp die, well worth the try, it works for my rifle that does the same thing.
As the reamer wears/dulls, it cuts the chamber a bit tighter and a small base die or in this case a 45 acp
die fixes it.
 
For the $27 of a 45 acp die, well worth the try, it works for my rifle that does the same thing.
As the reamer wears/dulls, it cuts the chamber a bit tighter and a small base die or in this case a 45 acp
die fixes it.
What brass and what cartridge is it chambered for? Just wondered what chambered round you had your difficulty with, and the brass type you experienced.
 
I loaded this round to see if it would chamber and eject like it should.
Chambered ok but rejecting it took a little force, bolt lift is fine it's extracting , especially after firing a round,takes a little force knocking the bolt handle back.
It's done this ever since I had it built, Wilson barrel , 26 inch, 104 freebore,272 neck
It measures .4705 at the base
Savage model 10 action
View attachment 1711049View attachment 1711050View attachment 1711051

I loaded this round to see if it would chamber and eject like it should.
Chambered ok but rejecting it took a little force, bolt lift is fine it's extracting , especially after firing a round,takes a little force knocking the bolt handle back.
It's done this ever since I had it built, Wilson barrel , 26 inch, 104 freebore,272 neck
It measures .4705 at the base
Savage model 10 action

What brass and what cartridge is it chambered for? Just wondered what chambered round you had your difficulty with, and the brass type you experienced.
I have an aftermarket 6 BR barrel and after firing the base of the case gets tight, the 45 acp die resizes low enough to allow easy feeding and extraction.
Lapua brass down at the 200 line should not be .4705, I believe that is his tight fitment. This is a problem for a small base die or 45 acp die
 
I have an aftermarket 6 BR barrel and after firing the base of the case gets tight, the 45 acp die resizes low enough to allow easy feeding and extraction.
Lapua brass down at the 200 line should not be .4705, I believe that is his tight fitment. This is a problem for a small base die or 45 acp die
If the 45 ACP doesn’t do it and if budget allows, a Rollsizer will certainly fix the problem.
Perhaps he might have a friend or know someone at the range with one and pay for the service..?
The only real fix is to have the barrel re-chambered by taking a turn off the threads and have a quality reamer {JGS} used… Not all reamers are good reamers & gunsmiths are not all of the same level of skill,,,
 
If the 45 ACP doesn’t do it and if budget allows, a Rollsizer will certainly fix the problem.
Perhaps he might have a friend or know someone at the range with one and pay for the service..?
The only real fix is to have the barrel re-chambered by taking a turn off the threads and have a quality reamer {JGS} used… Not all reamers are good reamers & gunsmiths are not all of the same level of skill,,,
for sure we have many calling themselves gunsmiths with no training except what they taught themselves, wrong or right, hit and miss results show that. but trying to use this brass in a chamber not designed for it needs addressed with more than a bandage! trying to make the brass work in a chamber it is not designed for would not work, period.

trying to alter the brass is a temporary fix that will never give 100% results. This is why those that rely on their firearm, weather it be hunting or competition, know and understand the difference. These are what cause some a DNF, or for hunters, lost chances at trophies. Getting the chamber right is what works 100% of the time, and worth addressing it early in any barrels life, rather than dealing with it sporadically for months and years. It assures you for never having your setup addressed as a favorite rifle.

This does not mean the reamer was bad. The 6mm BR reamer my gunsmith has is an early JGS, the 6x47 Lapua I'm not sure about, but I believe it was cut early in the life of the 6x47L when making brass with Remington Norma and other manufacturers were being used. The chambers work fine with them. This is a matter of a custom reamer being made for specific components. But I own 3 barrels, and if I add another this is the reamer I want used. Once addressed properly this reamer has given me great brass life, accuracy, is ideal using my Redding body die as my bump die, then my Wilson bushing die to give me perfect results. it has taken high score at the Golden 600 range in a Savage Axis, and proven competitive against fine custom target rifles built for light 600.

I have 2 barrels both 26", the barrel here is 1-10 twist and both shoot great, the other is 1-8 and likes shoots this load as well, but I use Varget in it with the same bullet, just as good of results.
IMG_8178.jpg

The 1-8 uses the same action and stock as the one I use H-4350 in.
20220517_230409.jpg

Then my 22.5" varmint barrel, also on a Savage Axis using this same reamer that is given the same treatment in the base, it likes 62 grain Berger's in its 1-10 twist Pence barrel, @ 3500 fps.
20210817_112708.jpg

Reamers are not the issue, they are obviously quality, they are just cut for different specs, but you need a quality, skilled gunsmith to use them properly. Not saying your reamer in your instant wasn't faulty or the smith unqualified. Just pointing out the fact, this can be caused by other factors, buying from mail order mass produced sources certainly can be caused by faulty reamers as well as wann-a-bee self proclaimed gun smiths. Mine was a case of using a quality reamer that was intended for less than optimum cases.
 
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