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6 mm Creedmoor Ruger precision TRIGGER

Hello, I'm shooting a 6 mm Creedmoore Ruger precision rifle in 1000 yards comp. Factory class.
I've been doing well so far but working on the rifle to close up my groups even more.
I decided to try to take as much weight off of the trigger pull as possible without causing any problems. I started by polishing the trigger and the Sear and slightly filed the seer before final polishing. I then re-assembled it with adjustment screw all the way back so that it's not touching the spring. I retested and it brought it down to one and a half ounces. I pulled it back apart and removed the spring from the adjustment area all together, then reassembled it and now have a 9 oz trigger. Here is my question, can I go lower? Will it be any problem for me to shoot it without that spring at all? I need some trigger help just trying to figure this out.
Thanks in advance.
 
Please take it to a professional . I doubt the parts will stay at current 9 oz , they will probably wear fast , giving an unsafe , dangerous situation .
The design was never ment for such a lite pull .
Be safe , cock the rifle empty and see if it will pass a fast bolt closure or bump test .
This advise is just my $.02 .
 
Please take it to a professional . I doubt the parts will stay at current 9 oz , they will probably wear fast , giving an unsafe , dangerous situation .
The design was never ment for such a lite pull .
Be safe , cock the rifle empty and see if it will pass a fast bolt closure or bump test .
This advise is just my $.02 .
I'm not taking the spring removal as permanent, more that of a test. If I where to goto a weaker spring what would that be? Removal of the spring yields exactly what the effect of spring pressure is. That becomes the question, what spring would be used if no spring isn't as light of a trigger pull that i'm looking for. What do I do to get lighter? In my valuation I'm looking at changing how the see her works by modifying its shape, then adding back the spring. My goal is 4 to 6 ounces.
I'm a very skilled race engine builder, with accurate equipment, and methods of measuring. I can take it to someone and not know what they did leaving questions about how safe what they did actually is or I can modify it myself and know. I'm the type of person that if it needs to be modified to accomplished, than I will be the one to do it.
Looking for experienced advice here.
 
If the trigger is clean and crisp getting a few more ounces off of it won’t do anything but cause you problems at a match one day be it a slam fire , ad, or not cocking.
Work more on your shooting skills and reading the wind that that trigger. If you start shooting well enough that the trigger is costing you points , then it’s time to upgrade to a better rifle / trigger combo
 
If the trigger is clean and crisp getting a few more ounces off of it won’t do anything but cause you problems at a match one day be it a slam fire , ad, or not cocking.
Work more on your shooting skills and reading the wind that that trigger. If you start shooting well enough that the trigger is costing you points , then it’s time to upgrade to a better rifle / trigger combo
Thanks for the advice about how to modify this trigger. Im shooting around 5 to 8 inch groups now at 1000 yards. Factory Rifle using factory ammo.
I'm asking about how to modify this trigger not how to buy another gun.
 
Theres just not enough people using those rifles enough and those that are dont need the triggers lightened up to that point for their application so i doubt youll find much info or anybody willing to share due to liability reasons
 
As stated before, this trigger was not engineered to go anywhere close to the poundage you are seeking. The best of the best triggers are what you need. Sorry, not available for your rifle. If you are that serious, I would upgrade to the next level. I know this is not what you want to hear. Sometimes, it is what it is. Iffy triggers are a ticking time bomb.:D:eek::eek:;)

Paul
 
Please , please realize its limits . Your asking a factory SBC to take 3 stage nitrous and run at 9000 rpm . It will happen , just once .
Most investment or mim sear parts are only case or surface hardened , once removed it'll wear FAST . Sear angle is important . If it wouldn't pass a bump test , it's not safe .
Almost all triggers in the low ounces are 3 lever , not a 2 lever .
Again , please realize it's design limits , this is an accident ( possibly ) waiting to happen .
 
I don't know that I would change springs so much. I believe you would be better off changing a pivot point to reduce weight.
 
Thanks for the advice about how to modify this trigger. Im shooting around 5 to 8 inch groups now at 1000 yards. Factory Rifle using factory ammo.
I'm asking about how to modify this trigger not how to buy another gun.
Well if your shooting like that you’ll get more points by reloading and at least changing to a better barrel, but your still putting silk on a hog , upgrade to a better firearm.
As far as working on the trigger , I have modified a few by carefully surface grinding the sear on the gen 1s
Build a jig and study the trigger , fire up the surface grinder and figure it out. It’s trial and error though and no two were the same, I took off as little as .004 and as much as .015. Still only got me to about 1.5lbs but it was crisp.
 
Well if your shooting like that you’ll get more points by reloading and at least changing to a better barrel, but your still putting silk on a hog , upgrade to a better firearm.
As far as working on the trigger , I have modified a few by carefully surface grinding the sear on the gen 1s
Build a jig and study the trigger , fire up the surface grinder and figure it out. It’s trial and error though and no two were the same, I took off as little as .004 and as much as .015. Still only got me to about 1.5lbs but it was crisp.
Guys, I want to thank you and say that i'm sorry
I came off a bit harsh before I realized that I didn't mention that I'm shooting in a factory only class. I'm not allowed to change to aftermarket parts or I would. I see that they make springs that will get me down to around 1.5 pounds or so, but i'm thinking that what I would like to try is making the first stage of the trigger weaker, to be more like 4 onces, followed by a weaker spring on the back side of tje trigger that is 5 onces or so. I'm going to try to work with springs, and possibly continue to work on the sear. If I get this trigger down safely to a minimum than I will let everyone know how I got there. Maybe it will help the next guy down the road.
As for running the fatory ammo, I am going to be working up some hand loads to help. What I've been doing is buying a lot of the Hornady match rounds and measuring them. I separate them into groups, by measuring the total lengh, then from the ogive, bullet run out, case measurments and total weight of tje rounds. Once I have a group of them that measure all the same without tweaking them, thats what I shoot in the competition. It seems to work ok, because I have got the vertical height in the groups down to around 2". The larger group sizes are coming from windage. Perhaps the handloads will help reduce the windage.
Thanks a ton
 
JD .. both my wife and I shoot gen 1 RPR’s in 6.5 Creedmoor. I removed the trigger spring from both of them over 1500 rounds ago for each. We have had no trigger related issues with either rifle. Her trigger pull is 16 oz. and my trigger pull is 14 oz. Nothing else has been done to the triggers. The trigger safety catch/bar is still active on both.
 
Here is what I have done and the results.
I worked on the sear more, reducing the amount of engagement on the hammer and polished both, as well, a fine polish on all components that have friction. Re- assmbled it and tested minus the spring, just the way that I took it apart. I measure the change 1 step at a time in order to quantify exactly what the single change did before moving on. At this point im at 8 oz. What I saw was that the smaller spring pull on the center blade was at just under 8oz. I then added the main spring back into play. 1.4 oz.
So I cut one coil off of the smaller spring to effectivly reduce the spring oal. This took the tention on the center blade down to 3 oz and total combined trigger pull to 1 pound. Since the trigger has an adjustment screw I went to the local hardware store and purchased one that was a little bit longer. I then cut 1 coil off of the main spring. I figured that this would change the OAL and spring tention in the same way as the smaller spring did. I figured that I could easily make up for it with the adjustment screw, moving it in to take up for the reduced installed height that the spring was at. I backed it out to the point that the adjuster screw wasn't making contact. That yielded around 4 to 5 oz.
I then tried cocking it very hard, and bounced it on the but of the rifle to see if it would cause the trigger to go off. I repeted the cycle several times and finally it failed. So I ran the adjuster screw in and brought it up to 8 oz maybe just a tick more, but less than 8.5 oz. I tried it again cycling it with the bolt and a spent case in, with out a cartrige and dropping it on the butt of the rifle many times. I could not get it to go off. I tried it at 6 oz with the same results.
What I'm going to do next is get the trigger and other components coated with a Diamond like coating (DLC) to make it's surfaces much harder as well slicker. This will keep it from any wear issues. Also possibly reduce the trigger pull, with more spring pressure. I will keep you up todate as I continue from here.
 
good approach testing all changes. the harder surface will help. check your spring wire size length and # of coils call lee spring and get the original length or slightly longer with a slightly smaller wire dia. they are a little pricey for one spring better safe than sorry.
 
Hi guys, an uodate. I went and shot about 85 rounds this last weekend with the trigger as it was. It ran perfectly. Taking it back apart to examine before sending it to get DLC coated.
 

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