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6.5x47 bullet seating?

I love using my precision mic for 308 and 300WM for checking bullet length-base to ogive. Now that I finally have a 6.5x47, I see there is now precision mic for it. What do y'all use to measure base to ogive. I don't like using overall length. To me, bullet tips vary. The "point" where the bullet touches the lands is more what I'm looking for.
 
749-009-213WS
Bullet Comparator, 6.5mm


Mfr Part: 590264

From Sinclair. Easy to use and get repeatable measurements, doesn't "tie up" your calipers by being clamped on. $11
 
Here's a fuzzy picture of it, Scorpion. I couldn't figure out how to get a clean link to it.
Use it with calipers, it's much easier to use than the Sinclair hex nut comparator and get repeatable measurements.
 

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mikecr said:
I don't see how it's easier than the Sinclair nut, and buying for many cals would be expensive.
Just sayin

The bullet seems to "seat " better into it than the nut and it's therefore easier, at least for me, to keep everything squared up. You are right, they are caliber specific and buying several calibers would be expensive but still not nearly as expensive as the precision-mic that he is accustomed to using.
 
I read a review that the nut is less accurately cut. That's enough for me right now. Sometimes you need to spend a little more coin for quality stuff.
 
Less accurate than what? Someone else's mismatch to your leade?
You can have your barrel finisher make you a gizzy with your reamer that will match what you have barrel-wise -for the first hundred rounds or so.
After that, there is no match there, and we're lucky it doesn't matter one bit any way.

You can use any tool as a reference for local CBTO.
The nut provides simple holes on flats.
You test for best seated depth and take a reference measure(CBTO with any tool, from any datum behind the tip and front of bearing, and log it.
Using that same tool, and same bullet, recreate that best seated depth over & over.
 
Scorpion168 said:
I read a review that the nut is less accurately cut. That's enough for me right now. Sometimes you need to spend a little more coin for quality stuff.
As Mikecr states, I believe you may be missing the concept, or possibly over thinking this. Using the same device each time will give you a standard to work from. I sincerely doubt that it will repeat the same readings from any other similar device that someone else owns. They are all going to give a different reading. Standardize on one, and then you can adjust either towards the lands or away from the lands, using your equipment.
 
Hey /VH. I got that bullet comparator today!! Now, I need a case "comparator". I forgot. How do I gauge the slight shoulder bump? I know now I should have asked my gunsmith for a piece of the barrel and ran the reamer in it for me. Help?
 
Something that can be placed in your calipers and had a hole that is .375" will work fine , make sure the piece in question is long enough for the entire neck etc to not come in contact with the caliper blade.

Example , a chunk of pipe 1" long with a hole that measures .375" ... If you get resourceful you can find a piece of brass that has an ID of .375" and cut it to whatever length suits you. Steel would be preferable but aluminum can be used as can brass but you must take care not to get "Rammy" lol

Good luck
 
The 6.5 Hornady bullet comparator adapter does not come in the small kit but can be purchased separately for about $3.00 at Midway
 
Scorpion168,

I agree with Patch700, just make sure the end of the "gage" that abuts the caliper blade is square and that you can get easily repeatable measurements. For what it's worth, the I.D. of the hole doesn't even have to be exactly. 375".

Although; my preference is a barrel stub, as you mentioned, cut with the same reamer as the chamber, used in conjunction with the feel of closing the bolt on the sized case (with the firing pin assembly removed from the bolt).

You may still be able to have your gunsmith make you one. If not, I think the Hornady and Sinclair setback gages generally work well. I have used a couple of Hornadys, that belonged to a friend, in trying to help him but don't have much experience with them. I have a Sinclair and once I removed the small burr that it came with, it works well.

If you do get your gunsmith to cut you one, I would ask him to stop the cut just short of the shoulder/body radius. I think most smiths know this but I have had a couple guys that ran the reamer body, part way into the stub and that makes it worthless for trying to measure a fired/expanded case, as you won't be able to feel the case shoulder seat against the gage shoulder. Though, if one is made this way, it can be fixed by facing it off.

If you ever do have one of these stubs made and intend to use it as a point of reference for bullet seating depth as well, it's not necessary but it's nice if it can be made long enough that the bullet tip doesn't protrude; it just makes it a little easier to measure, as you will be able to measure right at the centerline.

Hope this helps. What do you think of the comparator you received today? Is it handy to use and easy to get repeatable measurements?
 

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