6.5WSM and the Sierra 150 grain Matchking
- Thread starter TGP
- Start date
TGP
Gold $$ Contributor
It's an XP 100
STOMP442
Gold $$ Contributor
I tried them in a Tikka I built for a guy. Told him from the get go the Tikka magazine was going to be an issue with seating depth. Some people just need to learn the hard way. It shot OK under an inch but nothing great. I'm sure with some seating depth adjustment it would have done better. The 140 Berger shot really well though.
okie
Gold $$ Contributor
that is what I have found too
Not the same chambering but this may help. I shoot (mainly) a 142 Prec. Ballistics pill in a 6.5 x55 BJAI, water capacity of 61-62gr.. My load for 2950 fps is 48.4-5gr RL-23. I just recently started load development for the 150 SMK in a 7.5tw barrel. The charge for 2950fps with the 150 SMK is 48.2gr RL-23...about .5gr less than with the lighter bullet. The freebore and bearing length of the bullet dictates the boat tail occupy for space in the boiler room giving a load closer to/right at compression...thus the higher velocity. I suggest dropping a little lower than the 140 load to start with.
I was using the Sierra 150 match kings for a little while in my 6.5 SAUM, about 150 rounds with them. I lost a bunch through my sorting just due to manufacturers inconsistencies. Also, I’m running a 1/8 barrel, Sierra recommends at 1/7.5 or faster. They shot good out to about 350, then they started to destabilize, even though every stabilization calculator I plugged my info into said they were well within range to be properly stabilized. Just my two cents, I’ve now switched over to Berger 140 LRBT.
Kurz
Silver $$ Contributor
From the standpoint of curiosity, I would appreciate a little more explanation regarding a couple of your statements because I want to know more about how people shoot what cartridges and bullets.
What were the indications that the bullet was destabilizing at that distance and how was the distance measured?
What were your variables used in the 'stability calculators'?
I've been shooting the 6.5 GAP 4S (6.5 RSAUM) since it was designed. I can't recall a quality bullet which was not tested by someone since then. Yes, we even shot the 150 Sierras and the test batch of 155 Berger's when we got some of those. My thinking has always been that some of the smaller capacity 6.5mm cartridges should be left to the 140 class bullets or under. This includes the RSAUM. The longer and heavier for caliber bullets seem to flourish with the increase in horsepower found by using the larger capacity cases and longer barrels as the increase in BC does not prove out when the capacity of the smaller cases is diminished by the bullet length or the lack of velocity produced. And no, simply trying to run single shot or long actions is not the answer. It's a short action cartridge, that's the way it was designed and can be used efficiently. If you need a different magazine length by using a long action, choose a better cartridge with more capacity.
In your situation, the 140 LRBT will be a solution.
I have been shooting the 130 class bullets also, often with the same or better results as the 140's. That's what we found at the beginning of the 6.5 GAP 4S, the 130's were our choice for performance and accuracy. Currently I'm shooting the Norma and Berger 130's along with the 124 Hammer Hunters and 121 Warner Flatlines.
What were the indications that the bullet was destabilizing at that distance and how was the distance measured?
What were your variables used in the 'stability calculators'?
I've been shooting the 6.5 GAP 4S (6.5 RSAUM) since it was designed. I can't recall a quality bullet which was not tested by someone since then. Yes, we even shot the 150 Sierras and the test batch of 155 Berger's when we got some of those. My thinking has always been that some of the smaller capacity 6.5mm cartridges should be left to the 140 class bullets or under. This includes the RSAUM. The longer and heavier for caliber bullets seem to flourish with the increase in horsepower found by using the larger capacity cases and longer barrels as the increase in BC does not prove out when the capacity of the smaller cases is diminished by the bullet length or the lack of velocity produced. And no, simply trying to run single shot or long actions is not the answer. It's a short action cartridge, that's the way it was designed and can be used efficiently. If you need a different magazine length by using a long action, choose a better cartridge with more capacity.
In your situation, the 140 LRBT will be a solution.
I have been shooting the 130 class bullets also, often with the same or better results as the 140's. That's what we found at the beginning of the 6.5 GAP 4S, the 130's were our choice for performance and accuracy. Currently I'm shooting the Norma and Berger 130's along with the 124 Hammer Hunters and 121 Warner Flatlines.
Kurz
Silver $$ Contributor
When we fielded this cartridge for PRS competitions there was and is a speed limit for the matches. In order to not get DQ'd you had to shoot your ammo over a chronograph to prove the velocity. We chose to use H-1000 for cooler burning characteristics and the lower pressure while meeting the speed limit. Using 61.0 grains of H-1000 kept us somewhere about 3050 fps or slightly less shooting the 130 grain Bergers and 26" barrels. I switched to the Norma 130 grain VLD and the Berger AR Hybrid.
Non-competition loads will run upwards of the 3,150 fps node and up towards the 3,200 mark with either H-1000 or Re-25. Exercise extreme care as this is the upper end of the pressure curve with these combinations.
Currently I'm working with shorter barrels, suppressors and the 6.5 PRC cartridge loaded with the 130 grain bullets.
Non-competition loads will run upwards of the 3,150 fps node and up towards the 3,200 mark with either H-1000 or Re-25. Exercise extreme care as this is the upper end of the pressure curve with these combinations.
Currently I'm working with shorter barrels, suppressors and the 6.5 PRC cartridge loaded with the 130 grain bullets.
Stepping up in powder capacity from the 6.5 Saum in 6.5 can cause problems, just sayin.
#1 is fast barrel wear, torching the throat quickly - like with 26N.
#2 is that some of the best bullets can't handle the velocities with out blowing up mid air.
For instance the 140 hybrids were doing that in my 6.5 Saum at 3275 fps. That was the high node in my rifle which is built on a long action and has a longer freebore with the bottom of bearing surface above the NSJ. The barrel is a 8.5 twist at 29" and this was not a hot load. I settled in 3175 fps which is the low node both determined by ladder testing at distance and haven't had anymore problems at that speed. Only 60.9 grains of Retumbo used.
Isn't the speed limit 3200 fps in PRS?
My plan was to get a 7.5 twist on the next barrel to use the 147's or the 150's, maybe that's not the best idea, I'm worried about blowing those bullets up too because of the faster twist that is suggested.
Haven't tried the 130's yet.
I guess I'll stick with 30-375R for now with 225's for slightly less wind drift, or in the future buy another bolt and step up to 33 or 37XC.
#1 is fast barrel wear, torching the throat quickly - like with 26N.
#2 is that some of the best bullets can't handle the velocities with out blowing up mid air.
For instance the 140 hybrids were doing that in my 6.5 Saum at 3275 fps. That was the high node in my rifle which is built on a long action and has a longer freebore with the bottom of bearing surface above the NSJ. The barrel is a 8.5 twist at 29" and this was not a hot load. I settled in 3175 fps which is the low node both determined by ladder testing at distance and haven't had anymore problems at that speed. Only 60.9 grains of Retumbo used.
Isn't the speed limit 3200 fps in PRS?
My plan was to get a 7.5 twist on the next barrel to use the 147's or the 150's, maybe that's not the best idea, I'm worried about blowing those bullets up too because of the faster twist that is suggested.
Haven't tried the 130's yet.
I guess I'll stick with 30-375R for now with 225's for slightly less wind drift, or in the future buy another bolt and step up to 33 or 37XC.
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