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6.5 x 47 Reloading Info Needed

Getting a 6.5 x 47L rifle built by Accurate Ordnance. I need to buy some extra reloading equipment and need a little help. Will be using Rock chucker press, new Lapua brass and Berger 140g hybrids. Was recommended the Redding s type bushing full length sizer. Ok Im good there. Then I read to take out the expander ball. Ok how do I iron out my case mouths? Read to buy a expander mandrel....another step in reloading. OR is this something that only needs to be done on the first loading OR when deemed necessary if a case mouth got dinged on ejection?? Or would this have to be done everytime its reloaded? In my rookie mind I would think after they are fired the mouth would he too big and need to be resized with the bushing to get it back down to .002 +/- undersize. I have only reloaded .308 with Forster F/L die and ultra micrometer seater die. This level of accuracy is new to me. I will NOT be neck turning. Thanks in advance!
 
Or should I just order up a set of Whidden full length normal dies and a micrometer seater and be done with it? Am I thinking about this too much?
 
The way you describe will work but adds an extra step, some say that is the way to do it and some say no. I myself use the expander in my die and have no problems and no ill effects.
 
Id like to NOT add an extra step. Jason what dies do you use and could you give me a little more insight on your setup and what your shooting goals are? Thanks
 
You can take reloading, for any cartridge, as far as you want, but in my opinion, you don't need to use an expander unless you are neck turning. Loading for a 6.5 - 47 is no different than anything else. I use a Redding FL bushing die and a micro top seater. I take the sizer button out of my dies. The bushing allows you to adjust the neck tension and the FL die bumps the shoulder a couple thousandths. Simple.........
 
I have the same brass bullets and press you have and I use H4350 powder. I use Redding type s full length sizer die with expander and Reddings micrometer seating die. I shoot my 6.5 out of a 40lb heavy gun in IBS 600 and 1000 yard competition.
 
Thats exactly my thinking but was told you have to use that exp ball or eventually your case mouths would get smaller and smaller. I dont see how this could be since they will get bigger after you fire them. Then you use the bushing die to push back to .289 +/-.

So with that said I can get the Redding s type bushing full length die amd remove expander ball and not use a expander mandrel and be ok??

Another guy told me he bought a Forster FL die and had plans to send it in to them to ream ot out to .288/.289 but said he never needed to. Said he has no intentions to change a thing.
 
Glen1978 said:
Thats exactly my thinking but was told you have to use that exp ball or eventually your case mouths would get smaller and smaller. I dont see how this could be since they will get bigger after you fire them. Then you use the bushing die to push back to .289 +/-.

So with that said I can get the Redding s type bushing full length die amd remove expander ball and not use a expander mandrel and be ok??

Another guy told me he bought a Forster FL die and had plans to send it in to them to ream ot out to .288/.289 but said he never needed to. Said he has no intentions to change a thing.

Yes, you'll be fine with the Redding bushing FL die. That's what I use without the expander ball. Some guys like to get their die honed to a specific dimension, but I never did. I like the adjustability of the bushing. FWIW I like H4350 in mine, but I'm running it with 123 gr pills.
 
Jason Boersma said:
I leave the expander in my die to straighten out necks that get bent

Yep. What Ive always done with my .308. With this custom build and expensive brass I thought I would read up on what was the best....boy that was a mistake. I love my Forster dies for the .308 and planned to get the same....then opened up a can o worms. As of right now I have picked the Redding F/L bushing die and Forster micrometer seater. Allthough the Whidden stuff looks good as well.
 
Jason Boersma said:
I leave the expander in my die to straighten out necks that get bent
Just out of curiosity, why do you use a bushing die and leave the expander in? To me that seems like it would be a conflict. Hypothetically, if the bushing sizes to .289 and the expander expands to .291, then the bushing was useless, correct?
 
In reality I use a .287 bushing and my expander measures .262, when sized my brass measures .2865 it's just enough to straighten the necks if they hit the ground and bend.
 
Im not into the neck sizing thing. I F/L every time. Was just trying to figure out the whole mandrel and bushing die thing. Think I have a pretty good concept of that now that Ive figured out I dont need the mandrel OR the expander ball. Now just to decide on the dies. Sizer is between Redding bushing, Whidden regular F/L and the Forster F/L. Seater will either be whidden or Forster.
 
get a forester bump die kit. it has no expander ball and does a great job. I have 30 reloads on brass and still going strong!
 
Glen1978 said:
Id like to NOT add an extra step. Jason what dies do you use and could you give me a little more insight on your setup and what your shooting goals are? Thanks

Use the Redding F/L bushing die and keep the expander in. Select the correct bushing and the expander will just lightly touch it: as it should be. The mandrel is strictly "nice-to-have" as an expander button alternative. As you say, keep it simple and you'll be fine.

Regards,
Scott

PS. I use a mandrel in place of the expander button, but I also use a 4-station progressive...so it's not an extra step for me.
 
Well ended up with a set of Whidden dies, recommended to me by my builder....Accurate Ordnance. Got the plain old full size sizer die with expander ball and the microseater. Rick at AO told me whatever Im comfortable with and used to using will be whats best.
 

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