6.5 x.284 reloading

[M-61]

Savage 12 BR. After neck sizing cases the empty brass will chamber normally. On extraction bolt handle lifts normally and then it is a fight to extract case......sometimes a leather mallet to tap the bolt handle to the rear....hand only they really won't extract.
Loaded cartridges do the exact same thing....all of this without firing. This is once fired Norma brass which when shot performed normally.
Need some advice as my measurements of the brass after neck sizing seem well with in the guidelines in a few manuals. After neck sizing the necks measure .292.

 

[DanConzo]

If there is no swell in case just above the extractor groove (mike it before firing and after),try pushing the shoulder back until it extracts easily-just use a couple of cases for setting up a full length die, body die or shoulder bump die in conjunction with a case headspace gauge, there again measure the headspace on new cases to see how much the shoulder goes forward after firing then set your sizing die up to push the shoulder, then you can neck size or as some do you can neck size first.

 

[DanConzo]

If your bolt handle opens easily (without springiness) and you have trouble pulling the bolt back for extraction then the rifle may be at fault, if the bolt pulls back nice and it won't extract easily the rifle might be at fault. Does a new unfired case feed, chamber and extract without trouble if so then you probably have to push the shoulder. Your neck is fine at .292", some chambers will blow the shoulders .015" forward on the first firing because the chamber may be a little on the long side of headspace and the new cases are much smaller (small base size). Wilson makes excellent case headspace gauges if you are not aware of that. Good luck.

 

[coreydelong]

Guarantee you ae not FL sizing the base down well enough. Ensure you have no air gap between the die and the shellholder.

What case lube are you using? Imperial is the correct answer...

 

[DanConzo]

M61-The gauge will show you how far to screw the FL, Body or Shoulder Push (Forster, Jones, etc) down only far enough so the cases feed and extract easily, too far and your cases will stretch and separate before their time. If you like to neck size in a seprate step then a Body Die from Redding is nice because it will FL size your case and push the shoulder as far as you adjust it to and not bother the neck.

 

[M-61]

I have no unfired cases. I only neck sized not full length. I took two cases,(in the last hour) and full length re sized both. Both chambered
and extracted normally. What is driving me nuts now is I tried to pick up a difference in dimensions with my vernier calipers. I can't really find a dimension that has changed dramatically enough to cause the problem however obviously something changed enough to allow normal extraction. Also I find trying to get a reading from the case face to the start of the shoulder to be doubtful as to accuracy or at least to try and get the same reading twice. I do have go=no go gauges and they indicate the headspace is fine. I have always used RCBS case lube with good success, and even though it's messy I'm fine with it.
Thanks to all who responded....I tried to touch on each response.
In the end does this mean that F/L resizing will be needed with each reloading?

 

[DanConzo]

M-61--When you full length sized the cases you probably pushed the shoulder back far enough to work easily and extract. The headspace gauges that you have are they for the chamber or for the cases? If you get a Redding FL Body Die, it will also size the case to work smoothly in and out but not size the neck then you can size the neck with the die you are using to size it with now and obtain the same results, however if you obtain a CASE Headspace gauge you can screw the FL Body Die or FL Die down only far enough to have the case work smoothly in and out, if you go by the directions that most Die manufacturers tell you-you will overwork your brass significantly. The gauge is the answer, you gauge the case not the rifle chamber. Wilson does not make a gauge for the 6.5/284 but the 284 will work, some straight-line seating dies will work (like the Wilson) as long as the shoulder makes contact inside, but a regular gauge is better, Hornady makes a gauge that will work on your calipers or an Accuracy Gunsmith can make you one.

 

[coreydelong]

I don't think you're going to find many people who only neck size a 6.5x284. It's a good charge of powder at competition velocities. It's hanging up at the base because you are not FL sizing. This may not be measurable, but it exists for certain. I've had the same thing in both my 6.5x284's- need to FL size every time.

I just spoke with John Hoover this past week on going over my once fired Lapua brass that I bought new from him. He uses a FL/S-bushing die and does it all in one step.

I choose to take the extra step and FL size on a body only die and then deprime with the expander ball to open up the case before I trim them. My last step before I throw the charge in the case is to final neck size with no expander ball in the die. I guess I could eliminate the separate decapping then neck sizing steps into one step if I got an undersized expander ball from a .223 die or something.

 

[BigHorn WBY]

Hey M-61
What does your brass "look" like. I have a BVSS with the same trouble, using winchester brass. The brass comes out of the chamber looking like it is threaded. The chamber is rough (ringed) as a file. Shoots very well, but a shitty done chamber.

It is pulled apart now, setting the barrel back one turn (I like the stamping to be lined up) and the chamber re-cut. The throat was a MILE long so that will be addressed at the same time.

 

[M-61]

The gauges I have are for the chamber. The brass is smooth after firing so I assume the chamber is a mirror image of the brass (the other way around).
I sized the two fired cases in my Redding Full Length die and they worked perfectly ( empty fired brass that would not extract until I ran those two through the full length die which I made sure was adjusted correctly.
Now I know that F/L sizing is what I will have to do each time.
The marks I see on the F/L sized brass go from just above the extractor grove to about 1/2 to3/4 of an inch up the case. So even though I can't get a reliable measurement showing a difference in size the marks tell me something was sized and of course the fact that the rounds cycle properly.
A .284 case gauge I have to purchase, so as not to overwork the brass.
Thanks to every one who helped me with this. Lots of good info.....I guess the 6.5x.284 is not the simplest to reload...I hope the end results are decent groups. Well it can only get better as I made enough mistakes on the first go that with this info it has to improve. Thanks again...what a great site.

 

[coreydelong]

The 6.5x284 is well worth the effort. You are seeing the same re-sizing marks from your Redding dies that I see on my brass... ~1/2" up from the extractor groove.

Do not let the barrel life scare you away. $400 for a barrel in the grand scheme of things on a competition rifle is a small hill of beans. If you only shoot matches, you will get at least a good 12 matches..... I don't know about you, but thats almost two seasons for me.

Here's my 600yd NRA F-Class target from our last practice this past weekend before matches start in October. 218 rounds down the tube- and I have a spare chambered barrel on the shelf. I'm certainly no pro, but the 6.5x284 will make you look like one.