6.5 SLR from Lapua Brass

[gunmutt]

How does one make 6.5 SLR from Lapua brass?

 

[USMCDOC]

http://www.6mmar.com/65_SuperLR.php

Looks like .260 brass will work well!

 

[Grimstod]

I know that 243 is pretty easy. I would recommend neck turning though to avoid donuts.

 

[HPMike800]

I'm just running 260 Laupa brass through a 6.5SLR bushing die. it works fine. the factory brass has a thick neck wall and the fired brass has zero neck clearance. Not good for accuracy, you will have to turn if you have the same reamer dimensions.

I would try fire forming with lighter bullets if you have a zero clearance necks.

 

[quartermaster]

Mike. What do you end up for case length after sizing the .260 Lapua brass thru the 6 slr die. Is your die a Whiddon?

 

[hunter686]

I'm just running 260 Laupa brass through a 6.5SLR bushing die. it works fine. the factory brass has a thick neck wall and the fired brass has zero neck clearance. Not good for accuracy, you will have to turn if you have the same reamer dimensions.

I would try fire forming with lighter bullets if you have a zero clearance necks.

Are you running the standard neck clearance? I really want to use Lapua (especially palma) brass and don't mind the neck turing. Only thing stopping me from taking the plunge is i keep hearing everyone say "avoid anything that isn't American domestic"

 

[Capt. Oblivious]

Are you running the standard neck clearance? I really want to use Lapua (especially palma) brass and don't mind the neck turing. Only thing stopping me from taking the plunge is i keep hearing everyone say "avoid anything that isn't American domestic"

Just turn the blue brass and give it a nice deep cut into the shoulder, i went through the Win brass thing with my 6SLR and had to do the same with my tight chamber and after doing it decided id rather do the same work with lapua, the Win brass never got me excited. I turn the necks into the shoulder, FF the brass to get that thick part out into the cut in the shoulder, give the necks another turn on the second load and make sure to cut into shoulderand than load from there. Most off my friends are doing the same with Palma brass to make 6.5Creed brass, you can also really size the neck down esp if you have Whidden Bushing dies that sizes the entire neck down, expand with a mandrel thats just a little bigger to get all that brass on the outside, turn the neck into the shoulder and than do your normal thing.

 

[hunter686]

Just turn the blue brass and give it a nice deep cut into the shoulder, i went through the Win brass thing with my 6SLR and had to do the same with my tight chamber and after doing it decided id rather do the same work with lapua, the Win brass never got me excited. I turn the necks into the shoulder, FF the brass to get that thick part out into the cut in the shoulder, give the necks another turn on the second load and make sure to cut into shoulderand than load from there. Most off my friends are doing the same with Palma brass to make 6.5Creed brass, you can also really size the neck down esp if you have Whidden Bushing dies that sizes the entire neck down, expand with a mandrel thats just a little bigger to get all that brass on the outside, turn the neck into the shoulder and than do your normal thing.

That's exactly what my thinking was. I'd rather turn necks - if for nothing else consistency of neck tension. If I'm going to do it a why not do it with Lapua. After your second turn how often do you have to neck turn to keep on top of the flowing brass? Donuts in particular...

 

[Capt. Oblivious]

That's exactly what my thinking was. I'd rather turn necks - if for nothing else consistency of neck tension. If I'm going to do it a why not do it with Lapua. After your second turn how often do you have to neck turn to keep on top of the flowing brass? Donuts in particular...

With this new lapua batch Im only on my 2nd load now buy a buddy that uses everything from Nosler to Norma said he gives them a cut evey 3 loads and his not having any problems. Another friend said he did 5loads on his Lapua brass before he "had" to turn again but he has a no-turn chamber, with mine Ill also check/turn every 3 loads just to make sure and avoid any funny stuff.

 

[hunter686]

With this new lapua batch Im only on my 2nd load now buy a buddy that uses everything from Nosler to Norma said he gives them a cut evey 3 loads and his not having any problems. Another friend said he did 5loads on his Lapua brass before he "had" to turn again but he has a no-turn chamber, with mine Ill also check/turn every 3 loads just to make sure and avoid any funny stuff.

Thanks for the info! I guess every aplication will be different but at least i have a feel for what to expect. I am planning on the Whidden dies so that looks like another item added to my ever growing shopping list.

 

[HPMike800]

Mike. What do you end up for case length after sizing the .260 Lapua brass thru the 6 slr die. Is your die a Whiddon?

6.5 SLR Die. The Length is within 260 Rem specs. like 2.025" kind of number. I only trimmed for clean-up.

Its a Redding.

 

[HPMike800]

Are you running the standard neck clearance? I really want to use Lapua (especially palma) brass and don't mind the neck turing. Only thing stopping me from taking the plunge is i keep hearing everyone say "avoid anything that isn't American domestic"

Once fired 6.5 SLR brass formed from 260 Lapua came out about 2.945", you could not push a bullet into a fired case.

The formed 6.5 SLR brass was about 0.015" at the mouth and 0.0165" at the neck. I have turned to 0.014". Loaded rounds measure 0.293" so it should be good. Have not second fired yet. If you want to form from 308 brass you may have a lot of work, or get a big neck reamer. I have never done it.

 

[hunter686]

Once fired 6.5 SLR brass formed from 260 Lapua came out about 2.945", you could not push a bullet into a fired case.

The formed 6.5 SLR brass was about 0.015" at the mouth and 0.0165" at the neck. I have turned to 0.014". Loaded rounds measure 0.293" so it should be good. Have not second fired yet. If you want to form from 308 brass you may have a lot of work, or get a big neck reamer. I have never done it.

The plan would be very similar to yours. I'd use the K&M neck turner after sizing, followed by the sizer to expand the necks in order to then skim to 14th and go from there. You can turn .308 to .260 in one process so i'd imagine the SLR wont be too dissimilar.

 

[basshusker]

What is the fireformed H2O weight on lapua brass for 6.5 SLR? I was using Winchester before.

Thanks

 

[XTR]

Pretty old thread here. The SLRs aren't as popular because of the 6 and 6.5 Creedmoor factory offerings. Not sure you're going to find an answer.


(FWIW, I shoot a 6SLR but I have never used Lapua brass)

 

[Capt. Oblivious]

What is the fireformed H2O weight on lapua brass for 6.5 SLR? I was using Winchester before.

Thanks

Around 54gr maybe a drop more, it should be very similar to 260Rem cases and how much they hold.

In my 6SLR im shooting Sako brass now and Im very happy with the results, maybe have a look at them for the 6.5, holding up just as good as Lapua and shooting very tight with non of the "donut" problems you get when forming Lapua brass.

 

[XTR]

I can tell you from my experience with my 6SLR that the water volume of a fire formed WW case for the 6SLR is effectively identical to the water volume of a new WW 243.