All that, "Cratering" ???,.. they Do, LOOK,.."Warm" !
What,... Primers / Load ??
What,... Primers / Load ??
It's time to quit screwing around and get som GOOD brass. I'm gonna get a hundred Lapua for now. Both primer sizes are available. I kinda like the idea of small primer, but -- I'd rather someone with experience with this cartridge tell me why I should or shouldn't.
jd
Always use Mag primers (CCI 450)I had issues with small primer loads with 2 6mm creedmoors, particularly in cold weather (35 to 40 deg. F). Lots of hang fires, and several that just plain failed to ignite. The SRP brass seemed to work OK for 308 cases with Varget, but not the 6 Creed and H4350 or RL16. So when I finally had a 6.5 creedmoor built, I went 100% LRP Lapua for the brass and have been very pleased with it.
Yup. NEVER had a ignition problem. Even below 0°F.Always use Mag primers (CCI 450)
Like Laurie had to say, I have tried both Lapua SRP and LRP and enlarged the SRP flash hole on some of them to see what the effects are in my rifle with my powders. There are so many variables that you just have to try as many options as you can to find what works for you. There is no simple answer with the 6.5 Creedmoor. I forgot to add that 147 gr. Hornady bullets were effected much more than the 144 gr. Berger bullets. Got pressure signs sooner with the 147's with LRP's and the SPR's worked better with the 144's.It's time to quit screwing around and get som GOOD brass. I'm gonna get a hundred Lapua for now. Both primer sizes are available. I kinda like the idea of small primer, but -- I'd rather someone with experience with this cartridge tell me why I should or shouldn't.
jd
Though, in HOT country, I've found non-mags in SRP's work quite well in .308 cartridges.Always use Mag primers (CCI 450)
I think there is value in SRP's in the 6.5 Creedmoor if you do the work to find out how they can help your shooting. Especially if you can improve the longevity of your brass when shooting warmer loads. But I'm sure a lot of people will do just fine without them. I could use them or not, but like the idea that they can withstand more pressure.
I can live without them also but if I wanted to maximize velocity and accuracy, that is a reason of me to see how well they can do. The BR guys started the whole thing. Might as well see how good we can shoot also.
Yup that too but not BR. The guys who developed it used LRP.I think it was made for long range target shooting. Hitting the bullseye. Every little bit helps from my point of view.
It's a very good article. Hope you find a good load. It's worth the effort to find out. All those people must know something.I appreciate all of ya's opinions, and some of ya's have a strong one.
Things seem to break pretty evenly on large vs small vs doesn't matter.
I guess I'm gonna shoot some more and try these Feds SP to see how I like em. The Federal cases have a similar thickness/capacity to the Lapua. I was kinda surprised at the difference of Feds and Hornady. I won't use the same load in those two.
I appreciate the feed-back, and everybody oughta read Laurie's
article if ya haven't. It's good - as you might expect from him. jd
I hate to get into this "argument", it is similar to asking, "Which mfg make the best pickup truck", you're going to get a lot of "expert" opinions. In my opinion, most experts have actually tested lrp vs srp in thier rig and are sold on one-and for them they are right. I'd just like to add, primer lot testing will reveal a lot, by changing lots (or mfgs) some serious bench testing often reveals how much better one lot is better than another. Just a thought to throw in here.I've Had, NO,.. "Accuracy issues" with, 123 to, 143 grain Bullets, in my 6.5 Creed, using Both,.. Peterson and Lapua,.. LRP Brass.
Everyone SHOULD Buy, the Small Rifle, Primed Brass,.. IMO,.. so, More,.. LR Primers for,.. Me !
I'm shooting Lapua SRP brass in my 6.5 Creedmoor and when I uniform pockets, I have found that they are not flat. My cutter cuts to a depth of .120" which is in the middle of SAAMI spec, but it only cleans up the outer edge of the pocket bottom, leaving carbon in the middle. I clean up the carbon with a RCBS wire pocket brush but am concerned about the tapered bottom. I wonder if Lapua punches their flash holes and deforms the bottom of the pocket.As Steve Donlon pointed out earlier, there's another factor at play with the Lapua SRP cases. The flash hole is smaller than a "standard" SRP flash hole, which undoubtedly affects ignition to some degree.
I found that my ES and SD numbers go up in cold weather with the Lapua brass, but that's normally not competition season for me anyway. I'm told that opening up the flash hole to a normal size will eliminate that issue, but I've not done that.
I wanted to keep the small flash hole intact for the warm weather season.
There's undoubtedly a reason Lapua uses the combination of SRP and a smaller flash hole in their 6.5 cases.
The small primer pocket withstands high pressure better, being more supported by the thicker head that results from using that design. That part's easy to see.
Why they chose to use a smaller flash hole is probably about ignition consistency under normal shooting conditions, and they have more resources than I do to determine that. I'm not going to second guess them.
95% of my 6.5 CM brass is Lapua SRP, just because it's what was available locally when I started loading for that rifle several years ago. Some of the original cases have 25 firings on them now, and are still going strong.
I started annealing every 4th firing, then switched to annealing at every firing. That's definitely a factor in long brass life, the cases that didn't get annealed regularly early on failed at about 8-10 firings due to cracks in the neck area.