Hello, I have been a reader of the bulletin and other great features of the sight for a while now; I thank you for all of your guys hard work. I decided to post for the first time because I have a problem that I can not get to the bottom of, and I don't where else to go. Communicating complex problem and answers in notes like this is tough,,, but I've got to try.
I recently recieved my Savage SA back from the G-smith. He trued and rebarrelled with a HART (shilen)#7 barrel in 6.5 BPC (from Pacific tool) This is basically the 6.5 grendel. I broke the barrel in and sighted it in during the first range trip. I collected some velocity and pressure info and used it to make my first "real" loads. I am loading Lapua brass with various bullets, but we will talk about 120M Kings. Powder and primer aren't relevant right now. Heres the rub
The virgin brass chambered and extracted without trouble. BUT when I tried to chamber the N sized only brass it wouldn't go. It isn't just a little sticky, it is really tough. In fact after attempting to chamber a piece of the N size brass, tou could clearly see a rub, graduating to a gouge or cut (meaning it got tighter and tighter) on both the bullet (near the spot where the brass is - i.e. bottom) AND the base of the brass. The strange part is that they are on the same side.
I came home and went through every measurement that I can think of - concentricity is great to OK - the headspace is not the issue as best I can tell - length et cetera. I tried the FL sizer set to bump the shoulder .002" and those brass work fine. BUT if I size only 1/2 way (sizing the neck half way down with the FL die) it is sticky, in the same way.
I can easily chamber the fired brass without a bullet loaded in any orientation. I can chamber brass that has been fired and then N sized only Without a bullet loaded in any orientation also. If I use the N sizer to pinch just enough of the neck to hold a bullet it will chamber, but it fells like ther MAY be the begining of some resistance, I can't really tell on that one.
I compared a vigin case (that I dropped or something - I can't remeber why I marked it) which has .007" runout on the shoulder and the bullet, and chamber FINE,,, to a N sized only round which has essentially NO runout, and will not chamber at all!
The chamber is from a no turn reamer. the shoulder measures XX21" on virgin brass and XX31" on fired brass, BUT the FL die leaves the shoulder at XX29" - XX30" and they work fine. I have also tried setting the bullet back farther - NO LUCK.
PLEASE HELP IF YOU CAN. This is my first Smithed rifle and I had really high hopes for a good introduction to some new shooting disciplines. If this is what it's like I have NO desire to build a "real" BR gun!
PS I dont know what to think!? Is it the chamber/ throat? probably not, but it could be. Is it the N die;? but then why would 1/2 way using the FL die still leave resistance? I just don't know.
PSS For now I am using Hornady dies, including their "universal" 6.5 n sizer. I know these aren't the best, but I wanted to see how things went before commiting to top dollar dies. Clearly they are the first suspect, but the concentricty is fine to great..? shouldn't I be able to find something if the die was bad? I mean, it only touches the neck. If the seater is bad then it should show up in new or FL sized brass also, and/or the concentricity.., but its all fine. I really can't get this one.
I recently recieved my Savage SA back from the G-smith. He trued and rebarrelled with a HART (shilen)#7 barrel in 6.5 BPC (from Pacific tool) This is basically the 6.5 grendel. I broke the barrel in and sighted it in during the first range trip. I collected some velocity and pressure info and used it to make my first "real" loads. I am loading Lapua brass with various bullets, but we will talk about 120M Kings. Powder and primer aren't relevant right now. Heres the rub

The virgin brass chambered and extracted without trouble. BUT when I tried to chamber the N sized only brass it wouldn't go. It isn't just a little sticky, it is really tough. In fact after attempting to chamber a piece of the N size brass, tou could clearly see a rub, graduating to a gouge or cut (meaning it got tighter and tighter) on both the bullet (near the spot where the brass is - i.e. bottom) AND the base of the brass. The strange part is that they are on the same side.
I came home and went through every measurement that I can think of - concentricity is great to OK - the headspace is not the issue as best I can tell - length et cetera. I tried the FL sizer set to bump the shoulder .002" and those brass work fine. BUT if I size only 1/2 way (sizing the neck half way down with the FL die) it is sticky, in the same way.
I can easily chamber the fired brass without a bullet loaded in any orientation. I can chamber brass that has been fired and then N sized only Without a bullet loaded in any orientation also. If I use the N sizer to pinch just enough of the neck to hold a bullet it will chamber, but it fells like ther MAY be the begining of some resistance, I can't really tell on that one.
I compared a vigin case (that I dropped or something - I can't remeber why I marked it) which has .007" runout on the shoulder and the bullet, and chamber FINE,,, to a N sized only round which has essentially NO runout, and will not chamber at all!

The chamber is from a no turn reamer. the shoulder measures XX21" on virgin brass and XX31" on fired brass, BUT the FL die leaves the shoulder at XX29" - XX30" and they work fine. I have also tried setting the bullet back farther - NO LUCK.
PLEASE HELP IF YOU CAN. This is my first Smithed rifle and I had really high hopes for a good introduction to some new shooting disciplines. If this is what it's like I have NO desire to build a "real" BR gun!
PS I dont know what to think!? Is it the chamber/ throat? probably not, but it could be. Is it the N die;? but then why would 1/2 way using the FL die still leave resistance? I just don't know.
PSS For now I am using Hornady dies, including their "universal" 6.5 n sizer. I know these aren't the best, but I wanted to see how things went before commiting to top dollar dies. Clearly they are the first suspect, but the concentricty is fine to great..? shouldn't I be able to find something if the die was bad? I mean, it only touches the neck. If the seater is bad then it should show up in new or FL sized brass also, and/or the concentricity.., but its all fine. I really can't get this one.