556 reloading multiple questions

[new2this]

I have a Lee full length sizing die form the 90502 three die set. Do I still need to trim after sizing with this die? If so, is there a trim die that will work in an auto press?

I'm relatively new to reloading and don't have a lot of equipment. What's the most economical way to swage the primer pockets if all you have is a Hornady Lock N Load AP and a bench vice?

To cannelure or not to cannelure, that is the question. What are the advantages and disadvantages?

 

[wkdickinson]

My opinions and experiences:

1. Whether you need to trim or not is a dependent on the length of the cases. If you need to trim the cases there are many tools available. Lee makes a very in expensive one (about $10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NOQIOU/?tag=accuratescom-20) or all the reloading companies have offerings of more sophisticated tools. But trimmed or not, you should chamfer the inside and outside or the case mouth (once and each time after trimming). I like the Wilson style tool (https://lewilson.com/case-mouth-burring-tool) for that job, but there are lots of other approaches.
2. There has been a lot written about removing the crimp from military cases - swaging vs. cutting. I have an RCBS swaging die set which I used a lot for 308 brass. I would estimate that at least 30% of the cases I used it on I couldn't start a primer in, so I had to chamfer the entrance to the primer pocket. It wasn't to long before I stopped swaging and just used the Wilson case mouth tool to cut the crimp out. If you buy the drill adapter (Brownells) it's faster too, put it in your drill press.
3. I assume you are loading for an AR. I personally don't know anyone who uses cannelured bullets. If you use a reasonable amount of next tension "crimping" is not needed and it is definitely detrimental to accuracy (read the 3rd paragraph under "Neck Tension" - https://www.sierrabullets.com/reload-basics/reloading-for-semi-autos-and-service-rifles/).

My thoughts, for what they are worth.

 

[dc.fireman]

The DIllon bench mounted swaging tool really is, the bee's knees when it comes to swaging crimped primer pockets. There are Youtube videos which show how to make it super quick by adding a commonly availble spring to it, and a bucket to fling the finished brass into.

Crimping has been detrimental to accuracy in my bolt guns. In my NM AR's, it doesn't seem to matter - but my standard of accuracy is different for those guns anyhow. If you're going to use a cannelured bullet, then go ahead and crimp. If not, don't. As the previous poster mentioned, good neck tension will alleviate the necessity to crimp a good deal of the time, and if the tension is consistent from case to case, your accuracy will also be good.

The Giraud trimmer is what I use to trim/chamfer/deburr all of my brass. They're not cheap, but they're well worth it if you're going to trim 100's of cases in a sitting. Works just like an electric pencil sharpener, and about as quick too.

Welcome to the forum and the hobby of hand-loading!

 

[Twicepop]

What dc.fireman said about the Dillon swager is spot on. Case length is critical if you decide to use a roll crimp. More on this, for using the roll crimp the case length should be held at plus(+) or minus(-) .003" from your from your trimmed length to get uniform crimps. Too long and cases necks could bulge when the crimp is applied. Cannelured bullets are also highly recommended for this type of crimp also.
For my loading of the 5.56/223 I use a LEE factory crimp die for cannelured bullets and a Redding taper crimp die for non cannelured bullets when loading for slam feed semi autos. Neither on of these dies have any issues with cases that are not trimmed uniformly. The taper crimp die can be used with bullets that either have or don't have a cannelure with equal success, and again case length is not a critical factor with this die.
For loading this cartridge in a bolt gun, I apply no crimp no matter what type of bullet I use.

 

[new2this]

Thanks for the great input. The Sierra link indicated that a cannelure reduces accuracy. @Twicepop: do you notice a difference in accuracy between cannelured and non? I have the Lee factory crimp die, and I was planning on using it with or without a cannelure. Why do you use a different die on non-cannelured bullets?

 

[Walt Krafft]

I have fired 30-40 thousand rounds from AR's without crimping. There is no need to do it. Crimping just deforms the bullet which can not be good for accuracy. Same with cannelures, it is just deforming the bullet. For blasting and machine gun ammo it doesn't make any difference, If you really want to hit what you are aiming, skip the crimp and use straight bullets.
The easy button to remove primer pocket crimps is to buy brass that doesn't have them and never did.

 

[Twicepop]

Thanks for the great input. The Sierra link indicated that a cannelure reduces accuracy. @Twicepop: do you notice a difference in accuracy between cannelured and non? I have the Lee factory crimp die, and I was planning on using it with or without a cannelure. Why do you use a different die on non-cannelured bullets?

I don't know if I can shoot well enough to tell the difference between cannelured and non-cannelured bullets to be honest. I use the taper crimp die to eliminate or reduce bullet deformation on the non-cannelured bullets, and can be used equally as well with cannelured bullets. The LEE factory crimp die I have, I bought MANY years before I got the Redding taper crimp die. I got it when I experimenting with what kind of accuracy I could get with a slam feed rifle when fed match bullets. Maybe I don't need it, this year hasn't been conducive to experiment with much of anything, too many family obligations that need to be dealt with.

 

[Depart123]

The Dillon super swage is expensive, no doubt. I myself, put off getting one for a long time and suffered along with the RCBS unit (to the tune of about 10,000 rounds or more) for far too long. When I finally broke down and got it, it was a revelation.

The Giraud Triway trimmer is $100 or so. Again...seemingly expensive, but literally trimming cases by the thousand will convince you, in short order, of it's value.

If you absolutely cannot afford one, then the Lee cutter (with the wooden ball end) and lock stud along with the appropriate length case gauge is the ticket.