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45 ACP taper crimping help

I use Lee dies for handguns, always go with the separate crimp die. Hell, I loaded 7,000 rounds last week not a single case problem.
I have RCBS gray box I used a long time ago until I got a dillon SDB and I learned how much better job you can do with a seperate crimp die. The RCBS always seemed "tight" whuch makes sense because the die is trying to squeeze the crimp at the same time as seating the bullet. I don't even know why they sell them that way. Gary
 
Can someone tell a novice reloader what I am doing wrong with my 45 ACP? I have a Hornady Custom Nitride 3 die set with the standard seating die with a roll crimp. Not sure why they sell the set this way since ALL Hornady 45 ACP bullets are non-cannelure. Anyway, I know to not roll crimp 45 ACP. I am applying very little bell prior to seating the round but I cannot get it to de-bell with seating. I advance the die body just until it makes contact, then adjust slightly, checking for removal of the bell each time. Never goes away, until I eventually squash my case, and the bell is still there, unchanged!! Wtf???

Further, prior to the when I get to the point when I have over-crimped and caused the case to bulge, I am able to easily push the bullet further in by merely holding it between my thumb and index finger and applying gentle pressure. Then, next 16th of a turn of the die body, over-crimped and bulging. I have wasted a dozed cases and am giving up. I do not understand why in the F anyone would sell a handgun die for a caliber that does not get a roll crimp without a taper crimp die!
Can you send a pic of the case ? Can you mic the case just below the bullet at the neck ?
 
A LONG time ago I loaded a considerable amount of 45ACP using a Star machine, tapered crimp.
No issue until I started using once fired R-P match brass. The R-P brass had a thinner body than W-W, Fed and “ball” brass.
I needed to get a different sizing die for the R-P brass to get neck tension as well as a good taper crimp. The R-P brass was free so it was worth the price of a new die.

I believe it would be worthwhile to measure the thickness of the brass being used as well as the OD & ID of the sized brass. Compare the ID of the sized brass to the OD of bullet to make sure there is tension. I always used cast lead bullets sized to .452”

That being said as others have said check the dimensions of the dies you have.
 
I use an old CH for taper crimping. It is always used
alone as was designed. For that perfect crimp, I made
sure each case batch was the same length.
 
I am able to easily push the bullet further in by merely holding it between my thumb and index finger and applying gentle pressure.
Expander diameter should be about .450" But first, the sizing die must do its job by sizing the fired brass down enough.

Case wall thickness has an effect on bullet hold. Thin walled brass like some Remington may not work with the sizer.

Lee makes a "Undersize Reloading Die" for 45 acp. (I never used one)

Bullet set back is very dangerous, ever with target loads.
 
I searched for days before ordering. Unless you know the part number for the set with the taper crimp included, almost impossible to find. A search on amazon only brings up the set with a standard roll crimp seating die.

I got my die set from Amazon. The ASIN # is B004EXV2YW. Should be Hornady part #546555.

LC
 
As Post #14 suggested order a Lee Factory Crimp die, will make your 45ACP trouble free . Roll crimp dies are for revolvers , taper dies are for autos . A 45ACP is one of the easiest rounds to load , first time out everything seems hard . You hardly ever have to trim just size and deprime , flare the case just enough so the bullet sits on top , seat the primer just below flush , you can feel the primer bottom , add your charge , seat the bullet to the Over All Length the book tells you for the bullet being used , then last remove the flare with the Lee factory crimp die . I found adding a #17 O Ring from Home Depot under the locking ring , helps in making fine adjustments and removing the die from the press. As time goes on you will try different dies , I originally started with the RCBS Carbide 3 die set for 45ACP . Still use the sizing and decapping die , changed from the RCBS flare to the Lyman neck expand M-1 die , the bullet sits straighter on the case mouth and the Lyman sleeved seater die . I found both of those die helped in less bulge in the case when seating and last the Lee factory crimp die removes any problems . Also helpful is a cartridge length gauge to check your reloads , if it fits the gauge it will feed in your auto. Hope I Helped in some way .

Chris
 
Also, use a micrometer that measures .0001 and mic the outside of the case mouth after taper crimp.

Use a hard number to work off of as accuracy levels may change with different dia.

I had to try three different dies till I found the die that would take the dia down for a Bar sto match chamber using hard cast bullets.
 
I found these on the Hornady site. Note that 546554 is a three die set with no taper crimp die and 546555 is a four die set with taper crimp.
Hornady_546554.jpg Hornady_546555.jpg
 
Buy the LEE four die set with the factory crimp and you will never look back. I have loaded thousands of rounds with the LEE four die set. I have never had a misfeed or an issue.
I really would use nothing else.

This set makes cast bullets a dream.


Just try it
You can thank me later
 
For those starting out with reloading 45 ACP, the best $12.00 you can spend is a copy of Gun Digest Big Fat 45 ACP by Patrick Sweeney. I used it when starting out, followed it by the book, and was very happy with the results. When my son decided to start reloading I gave him the book and told him to read it front to back, and follow it by the book. He too has been very pleased with the accuracy of his reloads.

Per the books suggestion I bought a Lee taper crimp die and just took the bell out of the case.
 
I have seen many videos and posts commenting that a 45 ACP semi auto does not need ANY crimp, makes no sense. There is almost no tension whatsoever with simply seating the die.

Depends on your expander. Sounds like yours is expanding slightly more than it needs to. Ideally, the inside diameter of the expanded brass should be a tad smaller than the bullet diameter to get your interference fit between brass and bullet (i.e. beyond finger-pushing tight after seating.) A slight flare will prevent shaving of lead bullets, and avoid crushing the case with the base of a jacketed bullet as seating starts (for a jacketed bullet that has a slight bevel at the base, you may not need any flare, and you'll be able to get away without a crimp.)

I prefer using a crimp die as a separate step from seating (as a seat/crimp die will still be forcing the bullet in as the crimp is applied.) I shoot lead bullets pretty much exclusively, though; if you shoot jacketed, your procedure/setup will differ from mine, thus YMMV.
 
With a case that headspaces on the case mouth you need to use a taper crimp die as a separate operation from bullet seating. A taper crimp die brings the case mouth in very gradually. The die is designed such that variances in case length will not produce significant change in the case mouth diameter. All you need to do to set up a taper crimp die is adjust it so it reduces the diameter at the mouth to match the body diameter.
 
Joined the forums 5 minutes ago and already bought Lee 3 taper crimp dies from MidwayUSA. Sounds like great advice. Looking forward to learning more.
 

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