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35 Rem for a bolt action

ben-o

Silver $$ Contributor
Has anyone loaded the 35 Remington a little hotter for shooting in a strong bolt action rifle? I’m not interested in pushing it up to 60k psi, but I’m certainly comfortable exceeding 35k.

Can anyone with actual experience shed some light on this? My goal is to get a 180 or 200 gr solid copper bullet fast enough to kill whitetails reliably inside 150 yards.

I’ve gathered that leverevolution might be the best powder to start with. I’ve read all the posts in the Marlin forum on this subject, but I still have questions
 
35 Rem brass is hard to come by so I wouldn't want to be running too hot. Running a solid copper bullet you will want to go lighter, like 140gr Hammer Shock Hammer. I switched to this after abysmal performance with 200gr Horn RN. I shoot a Model 8 Remington.

2080fps with the 200RN (AA2520)
2390fps with the 140 shock hammer (IMR4166)

I did not have good luck with Leverevolution. Pressures spiked and velocity was all over.
 
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Gargoyle said:
35 Rem brass is hard to come by so I wouldn't want to be running too hot. Running a solid copper bullet you will want to go lighter, like 140gr Hammer Shock Hammer. I switched to this after abysmal performance with 200gr Horn RN. I shoot a Model 8 Remington.
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I’m definitely conscious about brass life. I have a good collection of brass that I want to make last as long as possible.

The bullet I’m most hoping will work is a hammer 180 grain. I think it’s the shock hammer with the really large hollow point.

How has the 140 gr hammer worked for you? I’ve been satisfied with the 80 gr hammer in a 250 savage, but that bullet is going a lot faster. I’m not trying to do a 35-3000 here
 
Doug Beach said:
Unless you already have the rifle, chambered in that cartridge, why not a .358 Winchester, or .35 Whelen? Both cases can be made from their respective, easy to find, parent cases.
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A friend and I are collaborating on a custom rifle. Not doing a whelen because we want a short action. Believe me, we strongly debated between the 35 rem and the 358 win. And the 35 rem won due to reasons that only need to make sense to him and me. We didn’t go to the moon because it was easy, did we?
 
ben-o said:
I’m definitely conscious about brass life. I have a good collection of brass that I want to make last as long as possible.

The bullet I’m most hoping will work is a hammer 180 grain. I think it’s the shock hammer with the really large hollow point.

How has the 140 gr hammer worked for you? I’ve been satisfied with the 80 gr hammer in a 250 savage, but that bullet is going a lot faster. I’m not trying to do a 35-3000 here
Click to expand...
Ah, so you are a hammer shooter! You know what they need, speed "Speed Kills!" I would try the 140 first. They have a big ol hole too! On paper the 140s are shooting good. I need to drop something with them though.

Do you already have the gun for 35 Rem? I personally wouldn't build a gun for 35 Rem. The 358 Winchester made from 308 brass would be sweet!
 
I'm building a 16" 358 Win AR 10, just received the barrel today... made several hundred cases out of 308 LC.
Open the gas port for subs and supers ...with an a adjustable gas block and other stuff gonna be here tomorrow.
Made some 35 Rem out of 308 win brass, cut the head down cut a new extractor groove...easy in a lathe & collet.
 
I’ve been shooting barnes in my non-weirdo chambered rifles for 10-12 years. I just tried the hammers this year because that’s what was available.

I would expect that I can push the pressure/velocity envelope in this rifle a little more than you can in your model 8. We are hoping shoot the 180 gr at the speed you are shooting the 140s.

That model 8 is a really neat gun. Our dumb 35 rem idea sprouted from a whiskey fueled campfire discussion. That night, the model 8 was a major topic of conversation
 
Ray123 said:
I'm building a 16" 358 Win AR 10, just received the barrel today... made several hundred cases out of 308 LC.
Open the gas port for subs and supers ...with an a adjustable gas block and other stuff gonna be here tomorrow.
Made some 35 Rem out of 308 win brass, cut the head down cut a new extractor groove...easy in a lathe & collet.
Click to expand...
What were your steps of getting from 308win-35rem? Rim diameter won’t be an issue in this gun (standard 308 boltface already). Did you just expand the neck with a mandrel, put it through a 35 rem FL die, then trim?
 
I use 308 win brass, any type commercial or LC mill to 1.910" about one second in the Bridgeport mill. Deburr spray lube top neck run through a homemade step expanding mandrel that goes to .338 then bumps up to .358 on the next step on the mandrel, so it's done with one pull of the press handle. Put in lathe collet turn down head to .460 dia. for .2" blend out, re cut extractor groove, deepen to .4" put a little 45 champer on the new extractor cut, run through a 35 Remington FL die...done.
It's fairly quick, with your set up...and a piece of cake with your bolt set up ..
Just mill to length, deburr, spray lube, run over mandrel, FL size.. done.
 
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ben-o said:
I’ve been shooting barnes in my non-weirdo chambered rifles for 10-12 years. I just tried the hammers this year because that’s what was available.

I would expect that I can push the pressure/velocity envelope in this rifle a little more than you can in your model 8. We are hoping shoot the 180 gr at the speed you are shooting the 140s.

That model 8 is a really neat gun. Our dumb 35 rem idea sprouted from a whiskey fueled campfire discussion. That night, the model 8 was a major topic of conversation
Click to expand...
When I am loading in the blind, I find the powders I can fill to the base of the bullet or until sticky bolt extraction and then reduce a grain. Reduce .3gr till I find accuracy. Good luck with your endeavor!
 
I once bought a 7600 pump chambered in 35 Rem. It was a disappointment. The case is so small that was not able to be souped up. The 35 Rem is an excellent deer cartridge. But it won’t be capable of elevated performance.
 
It can be converted from 308 or 06 but according to the guys a cast boolits it involves a lathe and lots of black magic.
 
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