30br seating?

[RGRobinett]

Ok so it doesnt take that much pressure to close the bolt?

I am looking at a 24" barrel but was wondering if there would be any advantage of going longer? Like 26 or 28? I dont need to make weight.

Bolt closes with a "feel" - perhaps, heavy to some, but, to my touch, light enough that I can RUN so fast that, more than once, I have been accused of "quitting" (as in shooting a lousy first shot, and then just slinging them down range as fast as I can, regardless of where they hit) - @ every one of those accusations, I've been able to advise the accuser, "look through a spotter B4 you label me a quitter" . . . they've always been 5X! Disturbing the gun has not been an issue. Oh, and if you feel that it's too much pressure, set the bullets back until you're comfortable with the feel, and go to work.

Especially for a 30BR, a barrel in excess of 24" long is going backwards: additional length will substantially increase muzzle deflection/droop (look up Dan Lilja's web-page <riflebarrels.com> and read the articles - his page is a treasure trove), making for more difficult tuning/exit timing, while each inch of barrel will prove worth only 6-8 FPS velocity gain. For the barrels I have checked (Oehler chronograph), the difference between 21" and 24" has been 18-21 FPS: same reamer, same components, same session. That difference could be observed between two barrels of equal length, same maker, and the same load.

21" to 24" is, "where it's at" - I'd pay more attention to balance, and when necessary, making weight, as in a NBRSA/IBS 10.5# LV, or "Sporter" rifle, and/or other weight restricted disciplines. Again, even in your case, I'd avoid longer than 24" - yep another cliche' - "like the plague!"RG

 

[X-Caveman]

@RGRobinett

So here I am... Sent 5pcs twice fired to Harrell's. Got my die. Have 50pcs fired once and resized. 60 rounds on a Lederer 17tw x 22-1/2" LNG. Ready to start load work.

.331" neck, 1.75deg lead, zero freebore. Shooting your 118-10. .3285" loaded neck dia. .324" bushing. When I load a dummy round measuring 1.695" CBTO, chamber, extract & measure it again - it's at 1.690". It's being set back .005". I did not brush, wet tumble, ultrasonic clean the brass, so there's a little carbon in the necks. I'm afraid to jam it much harder as I want to be able to extract a loaded round without the bullet staying in the barrel. Does that sound about right? Closing the bolt is a lot easier than I expected it to be, which is nice... Thanks in advance!

 

[RGRobinett]

@RGRobinett

So here I am... Sent 5pcs twice fired to Harrell's. Got my die. Have 50pcs fired once and resized. 60 rounds on a Lederer 17tw x 22-1/2" LNG. Ready to start load work.

.331" neck, 1.75deg lead, zero freebore. Shooting your 118-10. .3285" loaded neck dia. .324" bushing. When I load a dummy round measuring 1.695" CBTO, chamber, extract & measure it again - it's at 1.690". It's being set back .005". I did not brush, wet tumble, ultrasonic clean the brass, so there's a little carbon in the necks. I'm afraid to jam it much harder as I want to be able to extract a loaded round without the bullet staying in the barrel. Does that sound about right? Closing the bolt is a lot easier than I expected it to be, which is nice... Thanks in advance!

I'd let the barrel dictate THAT. However, per above, for a new barrel, I use a barrel-stub "bump" (head-space) gauge, which features a pristine throat, and set the Wilson stem to make for a dummy CBTO 0.030" longer than just a case . . . and have never had to, "look back" . . . For a hunting rig, to assure not sticking a bullet in the barrel, even presuming less precision, I live with no /less jam. There's enough other stuff to keep track of (well, try to) - I don't like "chasing" lands/contact.RG

 

[TrxR]

I'd let the barrel dictate THAT. However, per above, for a new barrel, I use a barrel-stub "bump" (head-space) gauge, which features a pristine throat, and set the Wilson stem to make for a dummy CBTO 0.030" longer than just a case . . . and have never had to, "look back" . . . For a hunting rig, to assure not sticking a bullet in the barrel, even presuming less precision, live with no /less jam. There's enough other stuff to keep track of (well, try to) - I don't like "chasing" lands/contact.RG

So basically just get a barrel stub cut with the same reamer then put just the case in and measure . Then seat the bullet so it measures .030 longer when inserted into the same stub?

Can this be done with virgin brass? Or should this be checked again after the first firing?

 

[fm1947]

Where is a good starting point when testing seating depth with a 30br? How far jammed or jump to start? Also where to start with neck tension? .004 or less?

Thanks

Just jam it as randy said you never have to chase the lands he told me that about 8 years ago it's been 5 years since I have shot my 30 BR but here's what they do at 200 yards, thats UNDER 1/4 MOA AT .18 MOA

 

[TrxR]

For you guys that are jamming that much are you able to extract a loaded round without the bullet sticking in the lands and powder going everywhere ?

 

[Dusty Stevens]

For you guys that are jamming that much are you able to extract a loaded round without the bullet sticking in the lands and powder going everywhere ?

The shape of the bullet usually lets me extract a loaded round

 

[kvd]

If a barrel shoots competitively, at any jump, jam, powder charge weight, I can't/won't argue that . . . I'm a codger, and know what I can live with - I don't like having to chase the seating depth.

The idea, is to begin with a "jam" and a LOW powder charge-weight and work up, watching for excessive pressure signs. I have yet to hear of a 30BR chambered rifle, shooting bullets of 118 Gr., or less, with H-4198, creating excessive pressure. That said, always, as stated by jimmymac, above, practice safety first. Except with H-4227, and N-120, I have yet to loosen a 30BR primer-pocket. - - but those are a different story.

I usually shoot pretty fast - with my methodology (jam), upsetting the rifle, upon lock-up, has never been an issue. RG

Perhaps one of the most succinct and profound posts you’ll ever read concerning loading for a 30BR. Thank you Mr. Robinett for the words of wisdom.

 

[Shooter13]

For you guys that are jamming that much are you able to extract a loaded round without the bullet sticking in the lands and powder going everywhere ?

No

 

[BenPerfected]

No

Agree

 

[TrxR]

Agree

So you have to fire the round and cant extract a full round?

 

[BenPerfected]

So you have to fire the round and cant extract a full round?

Yes....

 

[Shooter13]

Yes....

And the worst time to have to do it is in the middle of a relay! Ask me how I know (what a mess).

 

[RGRobinett]

In reviewing this thread, several people have been very considerate regarding my loquacious tendency when, "discussing" load development for the 30BR - or, any precision loading topic - thank you all for your kind appraisals.

Regarding sticking a bullet in the chamber: it only takes once to learn the lesson. During a [registered] match removal of the loaded round is unnecessary - the range officer should command, "temporary cessation of fire, clear your rifle by firing, or, removing the bolt." I have learned to put that round into the dirt.RG

P.S. As I have stated before, for non BR tournament shooting - hunting, etc. - to assure not having a bullet stuck in the barrel and an action full of powder, two miles from the truck, I will sacrifice a little precision and use a little "jump".

 

[TrxR]

In reviewing this thread, several people have been very considerate regarding my loquacious tendency when, "discussing" load development for the 30BR - or, any precision loading topic - thank you all for your kind appraisals.

Regarding sticking a bullet in the chamber: it only takes once to learn the lesson. During a [registered] match removal of the loaded round is unnecessary - the range officer should command, "temporary cessation of fire, clear your rifle by firing, or, removing the bolt." I have learned to put that round into the dirt.RG

Thats what i thought . It shouldnt be a problem to fire that round into the dirt/ backstop.

there is no way to remove the bolt without extracting the round that i can think of ?

 

[Dusty Stevens]

There are times when a cease fire is called and you will not be permitted to clear your rifle by firing and you will have to remove the bolt. You find out real quick who has been there-done that.