30br Help request!

[Link]

What is your front rest ?

 

[Batraven]

How can i try the best to meassure the actual set-back in your opinion?
i have the Sinclair headspace gauge but i think its not that good.

I use the Sinclair Bump Gage Insert, but I prefer to measure using the insert by itself without the gage holder (Bump Gage Body) that clamps to the caliper.

And how can you do this only with only the insert sir?

 

[Batraven]

What is your front rest ?

in our competition its only alloud to shoot with a Harris or other moveble bipod.
I shot other 30br's and score 250 with them so it is possible.

 

[LHSmith]

How can i try the best to meassure the actual set-back in your opinion?
i have the Sinclair headspace gauge but i think its not that good.

I use the Sinclair Bump Gage Insert, but I prefer to measure using the insert by itself without the gage holder (Bump Gage Body) that clamps to the caliper.

And how can you do this only with only the insert sir?

With an UNLOADED, de-primed case, place the insert (chamfer down) over the neck and measure with calipers.

 

[RGRobinett]

First of all if your print is correct, you have zero freebore. What size bushing are you using in the full length die (assumption) and how far back are you pushing the shoulder on each reload? Two or three thousands neck tension is all you need. So a .325" or .326" bushing should do the job. This is without the expander button in place. Sounds like you have your cases fireformed so you should be good to go. You're trimming to 1.510" and your chamber is 1.520", that's ten thousands under your chamber length. Did you check this after fireforming? Is everything tight on your scope mounts?

Bushing i used is 325 and 326 in my FL die.
No did not yet checked the lenght after fireforming.
I will look in to it before the next load.
Scope mounts are ok i believe.

When all else fails, try .324" & .323" neck bushings.
: I have witnessed this working, "like magic". RG

 

[North Fork]

I COLD NOT GET THE 125 TNT'S to shot very well at 2and3 hunderd yards at 100 yards they shot very good in the 1's 2's

 

[martin22250]

If I read your post correct you said you have only shot your cases one time will fire forming. From my experience it takes 2 or even 3 reloads to get the case fitting to a proper crush fit in the chamber. You want a light restiance when closing the stripped bolt on a sized case. A loose fitting case will never shoot consistent.
Dustin

 

[Batraven]

First of all if your print is correct, you have zero freebore. What size bushing are you using in the full length die (assumption) and how far back are you pushing the shoulder on each reload? Two or three thousands neck tension is all you need. So a .325" or .326" bushing should do the job. This is without the expander button in place. Sounds like you have your cases fireformed so you should be good to go. You're trimming to 1.510" and your chamber is 1.520", that's ten thousands under your chamber length. Did you check this after fireforming? Is everything tight on your scope mounts?

Bushing i used is 325 and 326 in my FL die.
No did not yet checked the lenght after fireforming.
I will look in to it before the next load.
Scope mounts are ok i believe.

When all else fails, try .324" & .323" neck bushings.
: I have witnessed this working, "like magic". RG

Hello Randy,

This is the first thing im gonna try for the next load.
Seems nothing else works so if got to try the "magic"
Are the more tricks in your box?!?😉

 

[Batraven]

I COLD NOT GET THE 125 TNT'S to shot very well at 2and3 hunderd yards at 100 yards they shot very good in the 1's 2's

Worth trying then.
I only shoot 100meters here in Dutchyland.
Thx for your comment!

 

[Batraven]

If I read your post correct you said you have only shot your cases one time will fire forming. From my experience it takes 2 or even 3 reloads to get the case fitting to a proper crush fit in the chamber. You want a light restiance when closing the stripped bolt on a sized case. A loose fitting case will never shoot consistent.
Dustin

Ok Dustin,
those are hopefull words about the 2/3 reloads!
Im kinds new to this cal you see😊
Thx for the comment!

 

[Link]

If I read your post correct you said you have only shot your cases one time will fire forming. From my experience it takes 2 or even 3 reloads to get the case fitting to a proper crush fit in the chamber. You want a light restiance when closing the stripped bolt on a sized case. A loose fitting case will never shoot consistent.
Dustin

How much do you guys think the head space would or should be ? How much would cause a loose fit ?

thanks

thanks Link

 

[BOLTED]

I may be doing this wrong, but I get my headspace setting from how the bolt closes on a case in the rifle. I neck size a fired case, then use this method to set my size or bump die.

As Dustin pointed out, the bolt closing should not feel too easy or loose, and it shouldn't be hard to close. Just a nice bit of resistance while closing the bolt. Like I am "snugging" it into the chamber without changing the shape of the brass. Once this is done on several cases, I can record with a headspace gauge how far I am needing to bump the brass, or just check in the rifle and set each time I reload a batch of cases.

I think the rifle check gives me the most consistent cases, but only if I am sizing brass that has all been fired the same amount of times with the same load. The setback or bump may be the same for the cases, but the feel in the rifle will help determine how much of the case needs to be sized.

RIGO, are your action screws torqued correctly? Is your rifle bedded? Changing torque up or down on the action can sometimes help dial in a bit more (or less) accuracy.

Best of luck,

Dave J.

 

[Batraven]

I may be doing this wrong, but I get my headspace setting from how the bolt closes on a case in the rifle. I neck size a fired case, then use this method to set my size or bump die.

As Dustin pointed out, the bolt closing should not feel too easy or loose, and it shouldn't be hard to close. Just a nice bit of resistance while closing the bolt. Like I am "snugging" it into the chamber without changing the shape of the brass. Once this is done on several cases, I can record with a headspace gauge how far I am needing to bump the brass, or just check in the rifle and set each time I reload a batch of cases.

I think the rifle check gives me the most consistent cases, but only if I am sizing brass that has all been fired the same amount of times with the same load. The setback or bump may be the same for the cases, but the feel in the rifle will help determine how much of the case needs to be sized.

RIGO, are your action screws torqued correctly? Is your rifle bedded? Changing torque up or down on the action can sometimes help dial in a bit more (or less) accuracy.

Best of luck,

Dave J.

Hello Dave,

Thank you for the great comment!
Yes my rifle is action bedded in Defcon. the action screws are about 4nm torgued.
Im gonna try the method with the Bolt closing great tip!

All the best

Rigo

 

[Olde Man]

For best accuracy you should be measuring actual set-back rather than relying solely on the "feel" method.
I agree on trying other bullets. The 125 TNT's can win matches if sorted.

Can you tell me how you sort them? Also H4198 load and seating depth if you have them.
Thank You

 

[Kevin1990]

Not trying to be a jerk, but have you read the 30br guide on here, and all the links? You’ve stated you’ve shot other 30brs. We’re they yours or other peoples? If they were yours, I’d follow the same formula you did that made the other 30brs shoot well.

Also, I’d get a good shoulder bump guage to be able to measure Shoulder set back, but if you’ve only fired them once, and put them in a FL die, you may have already bumped the shoulders back so that reading won’t mean jack.

I’d just fireform all your brass with 2-3 firings and then go from there.

Then again I’m new to all of this, so don’t listen to me haha. Hopefully one of the fathers will chime in. Randy already has.

 

[BoydAllen]

Hello Shooters,

I have a 30br Lilja 1/17 26" 330 chamber neck and trying my best to get her
accurate.
Im using Lapua brass with a load of 34.5 VV N130 with a 115 VLD Berger bullet.
My cases are trimmed to 1.510 and neckturned to meassure 328 with a bullet in it.
Some friends of my shoot the same exact load and this seems to work fine for them.

I break in my barrel and have shot 100 rounds right now.
Thing is it just wont want to make small groups for a reason.
If tryed several different seathing dephts but even this did not make it perform better.
All the brass is now beeing shot ones so maby it is not accurate while fireforming it?

What is your opinion about this and what am i doing wrong?

Thx

What size bushing are you using?

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Not trying to be a jerk, but have you read the 30br guide on here, and all the links? You’ve stated you’ve shot other 30brs. We’re they yours or other peoples? If they were yours, I’d follow the same formula you did that made the other 30brs shoot well.

Also, I’d get a good shoulder bump guage to be able to measure Shoulder set back, but if you’ve only fired them once, and put them in a FL die, you may have already bumped the shoulders back so that reading won’t mean jack.

I’d just fireform all your brass with 2-3 firings and then go from there.

Then again I’m new to all of this, so don’t listen to me haha. Hopefully one of the fathers will chime in. Randy already has.

You might be fairly new but it's easy to tell that you're a smart guy and offer good advice. This is a rather old thread though. Still, relevant . I appreciate your comments on most subjects here. Thank you!

 

[JimPag]

Hello Shooters,

I have a 30br Lilja 1/17 26" 330 chamber neck and trying my best to get her
accurate.
Im using Lapua brass with a load of 34.5 VV N130 with a 115 VLD Berger bullet.
My cases are trimmed to 1.510 and neckturned to meassure 328 with a bullet in it.
Some friends of my shoot the same exact load and this seems to work fine for them.

I break in my barrel and have shot 100 rounds right now.
Thing is it just wont want to make small groups for a reason.
If tryed several different seathing dephts but even this did not make it perform better.
All the brass is now beeing shot ones so maby it is not accurate while fireforming it?

What is your opinion about this and what am i doing wrong?

Thx

34.5 is a great load using H4198 but not using N130. Start with 35.5. Get some 115 Berger flat base or better yet get some custom FB match bullets like Bart's X-Outs or Bibs. As far as bushings go I was taught early on by 2 of the best score scooters in the IBS use a .323 or 24.

 

[Kevin1990]

You might be fairly new but it's easy to tell that you're a smart guy and offer good advice. This is a rather old thread though. Still, relevant . I appreciate your comments on most subjects here. Thank you!

From 2015. Doh. Lol. I’m curious if the problem was figured out. I was leaning toward getting 2, 8lbs jugs of N130 or lt30 for my 30br but couldn’t decide.


Edit: thanks for the kind words.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

From 2015. Doh. Lol. I’m curious if the problem was figured out. I was leaning toward getting 2, 8lbs jugs of N130 or lt30 for my 30br but couldn’t decide.


Edit: thanks for the kind words.

Lt30 works for some people but I'd get the n130 or RL7 first, if you can't find any h4198. There are other good options but those are hard to knock if you have or can find them. Both have been available very recently. Not sure about right at the moment though.