I am going to make some 300 Savage out of 308 cases. I am wondering which route to take. 1. Anneal shoulder area and resize. 2. Resize then anneal shoulder area. 3. Resize and reload with no anneal. My anneal process is to dip case into lead pot at highest heat for about 3 seconds. This only works well if the spent primer is still in case to prevent molten lead from flowing into case. 1, 2 or 3?
308 to 300 Savage
- Thread starter xtratoy
- Start date
Are the cases new or once fired? New they should not need annealing, fired I would anneal. What about case length and neck thickness?
Frank
Frank
Frank
Frank
I've done batch lots of Lake City brass. I swear, they over anneal
at times, however, it's not the shoulder that will give you a problem,
it will be the case body taper fighting you, in and out. One particular
lot I had to do a series of step sizing half way down the brass, then
fire form......Use nothing short of Imperial lube, and a Rock Chucker
press.
at times, however, it's not the shoulder that will give you a problem,
it will be the case body taper fighting you, in and out. One particular
lot I had to do a series of step sizing half way down the brass, then
fire form......Use nothing short of Imperial lube, and a Rock Chucker
press.
Used once fired military brass. I did a batch of 20 a while ago but did the anneal after sizing and ended up having to scrape lead out of 3 of the cases. I had no problem with just running the 308 case into my 300 Savage die. The cases chambered and fired fine. I did use Imperial lube. So annealing before sizing might be the best way to go ? The other step i forget to mention was trimming the case to .010" below SAMMI specifications
I've converted LC brass to 300 Savage for decades and never had any issues. Maybe it's the particular lot of brass I got.
How much 300 Savage brass are you looking to make? I have some I might part with.
Paul H
Paul H
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