Here in comparison your no fire three.
308 Palma failure to fire
- Thread starter KevinBaker
- Start date
Here in comparison your no fire three.The primers are nice and round but the strike hole is cratered.
Ned Ludd
Silver $$ Contributor
This issue came up here about a month ago. The most likely cause in that case was the combination of Palma brass and primers not seated deep enough, which ultimately resulted in soft strikes (primer moves deeper in pocket when struck, thus "softening" the strike) and failure to ignite. If your failures are caused by the same problem, make sure your primers are firmly seated to the bottom of the pocket and the issue should go away.
Do u clean out primer pockets? Also looks like these primers are seated deepers than others.
dogdude
Egan O'Brien
My 6.5x308 Palma brass gave me fits..primers looked just like your FTF'S..told my gunsmith what was going on and he asked me how far I was seating the primers, told him .002, then I hear ''NOOO'' they must be seat at least .006-.008 below flush, 625 rounds later..No FTF's Thank You Ryan Miller!!
BTW..BR-4's
BTW..BR-4's
You can definitely see the difference for sure.
Just to answer a couple of previous questions, this is brand new out of the box brass. I seated all primers to hard felt stop with a 21st century primer tool. Also, the out of the box shoulder to base measurement (Hornady comparator) is 1.561" compared to a fire formed case of 1.563"
I think the quickest and easiest thing to do is replace the firing pin spring in order to rule it out.
I think the quickest and easiest thing to do is replace the firing pin spring in order to rule it out.
Didn't you mention earlier that the same rifle in dasher shot fine?
New spring definitely won't hurt in fact Kelbly recommend replacing them.
The ones that you didn't fire - take the 21 century tool in one more click - did you get a little more crush? If so go one more (assuming the .025" version)...rinse and repeat...do it while you wait for your spring to arrive - you might end up cancelling that order
The priming material is like a small biscuit under the anvil of the primer. If there is a primer hit and the biscuit is no even broken then the primer was not fully seated. I had a period where I was experiencing the same thing and I took the primer arms off my presses and went to the RCBS hand primer. I have not had it happen since then.
I would check the shoulder bump . Larry
KMart
Gold $$ Contributor
I agree. Check the base to datum on the 4 cases that misfired. Then take the same measurement on other new unfired cases and again on the cases that fired.
some of the new cases may be very much shorter than others causing the entire case moving forward in the chamber.
Liven The Dream
Gold $$ Contributor
Have this happen a couple years back with my Palma Rifle .
Rem. 700 Blue Print Action Wolf LR Win. Cases.
Cut the pockets with K&M Change the Spring ( have a few) Use a 21st Century primer Tool .
Win. or Lapua Brass NO More Trouble
My testing of Wolf LR / Fed 210M only difference Wolf always lowest SD.
My Wolf are from 2008 and 2009 ( I Got a lot at 12.50 a 1000 )
Rem. 700 Blue Print Action Wolf LR Win. Cases.
Cut the pockets with K&M Change the Spring ( have a few) Use a 21st Century primer Tool .
Win. or Lapua Brass NO More Trouble
My testing of Wolf LR / Fed 210M only difference Wolf always lowest SD.
My Wolf are from 2008 and 2009 ( I Got a lot at 12.50 a 1000 )
Ned Ludd
Silver $$ Contributor
Actually, the easiest thing by far to try first is to load a few rounds and seat the primers all the way down in the bottom of the pocket, especially since this was a remedy that solved the exact same issue some others were recently having. If it's a headspace issue, the softer primer approach might work, or a new firing pin. I open up the necks of virgin Lapua Palma brass first with an oversized expander mandrel, then size them back down with the appropriate FL sizing die/bushing. I use Fed 205 primers that are fully seated and have had no issues whatsoever. Below is a link to the other thread I was referring to. It may be of interest to you.
http://forum.accurateshooter.com/th...-new-lapua-palma-brass.3913807/#post-36870381
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I tried to seat the misfired primers a little further this afternoon, but they were already bottomed out. However, I measured the shoulder length on them and two out of the three were .005-.006 thousandths shorter than the other. I went through the rest of the box and ended up with 15 or so that were this same length. I'm going to change my firing pin spring just for the sake of doing it, but it seems as though the hardness of the magnum primer coupled with the shorter cases may have caused some movement and then a light firing pin strike. I also run an expander mandrel down the necks of new Lapua brass, and then size them back down. Also, I have always seated my primers by feel for when they "bottom" out in the primer pocket and this has always worked for me.
I appreciate everyone's comments and advice. I'll update the thread when I can get back out to the range and get this new brass at least fire formed.
Kevin
On a side note, I'm looking forward to seeing what these components can produce. This is my first time experimenting with Palma brass on a 308 and so far, the results look very promising. The accuracy is already outstanding even in the early stages of working up the load.
Kevin, you can take the short ones, load them with about 8gr of Titegroup pistol powder (or equivalent) and fire with the barrel pointed up to keep the powder in the case against the primer and they should light off and blow the shoulder forward. Or you could use the standard Cream of Wheat filler. I have done this for short sized cases while forming improved 6.5 x55 Lapua/RWS brass and it blew the shoulders forward enough for the misfire cases to fire normally afterward.
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