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300 Wm neck sizing dies

Since there are as many as fleas on a dogs hind leg I was wonder if there was any big difference in quality and what everyone is using.
Not looking for a bushing die since they only partially size the neck.
 
When I was reloading the 300WM I was using a Redding Body Die (resizing the body and bumping the shoulder back .002), and using the Lee Collet Die to resize the neck. I have used this combination on several calibers.
 
For my 300winmags, I use the standard RCBS full length sizing die to size the neck only or to bump the shoulder 1 or 2 thousands.

Hornady headspace comparator is the proper tool to use when sizing any bottleneck cartridge.

This way just the 1 FL die can accomplish both tasks.
 
Hone out a 300 WM FL die's neck to a couple thousandths less than that of a loaded round. This will end up with the whole neck sized and shoulder set back to your desired case headspace. Necks are straightest on cases this way.

Use the Willis collet die to squeeze the few thousandths ridge in front of the belt for best accuracy.
 
Thanks for the responses.
I have the Redding 300 Wm die set and have the sizing die set to size the neck and bump the shoulder .002". The sizing die doesn't have a carbide sizing button and there are others that do.
Does the carbide sizing button help keep the necks straight?
 
I use a Redding standard (non bushing) FL die with the expander ball/stem removed and it's set to bump the shoulder about 2 thou. Then a Lee collet neck die that gives 2 thou neck tension. Works great, concentricity is less than a thou.
 
Since when does a bushing die not size enough? Using a neck die on any case, especially a belted magnum, is a disaster in the making. Youd be better off just using a non bushing fl die if you read too much chatter on a bushing die.
 
Since when does a bushing die not size enough? Using a neck die on any case, especially a belted magnum, is a disaster in the making. Youd be better off just using a non bushing fl die if you read too much chatter on a bushing die.


My Redding bushing neck die (comp set with body die, type s neck sizer and micrometer seater) only sized half the neck. I just figured out a way to size the entire neck, which was to add another bushing on top of the one actually sizing the neck and adjust the body of the die for gross adjustments. I am finding that a full neck size and an additional .002" NT give me a more consistant SD with this rifle. If I hadn't gotten the die set cheap, I would likely have gone with a bushing FL sizer and a seater. FWIW, I start with a FL body die that had some of the bottom cut off in the lathe, then neck size.
 
That doesn't move the fired case shoulder forward?

I use the Headspace comparator to make sure I set up the die so the shoulder doesn't move forward when neck sizing with the FL die.

But before I started using the HS comparator, I would size 3/4 of the neck with a FL die and didn't experience any problems when chambering the brass.
 
I use a Redding body die to do the shoulder and then a Lee collet die to do the necks. Then probably every third time I will use the Willis collet die to get the body all the way down to the belt. I have found that with the components and load I have been using that it works for my rifle.
 
The OP said it didnt
Yes I did. I had borrowed a bushing neck sizing die and found it didn't size the full length of the neck as Fatboy has stated it but since it wasn't my die I didn't look to fix the problem and instead got a FL die.
Since I'm just loading for hunting I wanted something that wouldn't stretch the neck as the standard expander ball can and was wondering if the floating carbide expender ball is a better option and what die manufacture would work best.
Thanks for all the replies.
 
Redding body die + Lee collet die and a couple different mandrel's size for me
Larry Willis's collet die when there's a need.
 
Hone out a 300 WM FL die's neck to a couple thousandths less than that of a loaded round. This will end up with the whole neck sized and shoulder set back to your desired case headspace. Necks are straightest on cases this way.

Use the Willis collet die to squeeze the few thousandths ridge in front of the belt for best accuracy.
What do you use for a hone?
 
What do you use for a hone?
I used a 1/4" wood dowel with the end split to hold a few wraps of 600 grit Emery paper. Stripped the die, chucked in a lathe headstock with bottom out, turned on the lathe at about 200 rpm then ran my "hone" in and out of the die neck. Stopped, cleaned the die then used hole micrometer to measure. Repapeat as necessary. Didn't care if a slight taper resulted in the die neck.

Others use Flex Hone brushes.
 
I used a 1/4" wood dowel with the end split to hold a few wraps of 600 grit Emery paper. Stripped the die, chucked in a lathe headstock with bottom out, turned on the lathe at about 200 rpm then ran my "hone" in and out of the die neck. Stopped, cleaned the die then used hole micrometer to measure. Repapeat as necessary. Didn't care if a slight taper resulted in the die neck.

Others use Flex Hone brushes.
I don't own a lathe so is there any other way to do this with out ruining a die?
 
I don't own a lathe so is there any other way to do this with out ruining a die?
Yes.

Get a foot long steel or PVC tube 7/8" inside diameter. Split one end, put the stripped die in, then tighten a hose clamp on it. Put a cap on the other end with a 3/8" center hole in it. Wrap strips of Emery paper on the 13 inch long split dowel that's chucked in an electric hand drill.

You're smart enough to figure out what to do next.

Practice with a junk die to build confidence and skill levels.
 

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