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300-600 yard f class scope question

First I would like to say I have never posted before so I'm a bit scared of how others will respond. I have a question and reading from the site and a few post you guys/gals seem to really know your stuff. Ok I'm looking to try and get into f class shooting nothing professional but just for fun. The local range is 600 yards there are no 1000 yard ranges in my area so I don't have to worry so much about that. I don't have much money do to wife lost her job and I'm the only income. So to keep cost down I was going to use the equipment I all ready have. I know there are better cal. Out there but I was going to use my Winchester stealth II in 25wssm, Harris bipod, and a old junk scope that came on it when I bought it that I would like to replace, this is my question to you guys. I know you get what you pay for and I would love to have a NF scope or something high end. But it's just not in the cards I was looking at like weaver t- series scopes and Nikon buck master 6-18, and some Burris Scopes in that price range a few hundred dollars. Do you guys know of any good budget scopes or scopes in that price bracket that maybe I should be looking at? Or stay away from. Also what magnification should I be looking for. I know everything depends on preferences but I was kind of hoping to get either so personal experiences, and opinions. Thanks for time
 
Welcome aboard. There is an optics forum, rather than this 'General' forum. And I'm not talking about the Optics section of the Classifieds. It's below that; just keep scrolling.

Anyway, you're asking a question that's been asked and answered thousands of times on various internet shooting forums. I suggest you simply Google search "what scope for 300-600y shooting", and start reading.

What's best for you is always dependent on your unique situation, but it won't be so different from anybody else who's started out. First, set a budget and stick to it. Next, determine how much 'up' the scope needs to have built in to get you to the target distances you want to shoot. Next, decide what reticle and magnification you want. Google has the answers; you'll have a lot to read, including hundreds of posts about scopes on this forum too.

The main thing is to get in the game. Your first scope won't make or break you, so don't overthink it. Ideally, you'd go to a mid-range F-class match in your area, and watch, and then talk to the competitors about their gear.

Good luck.
 
Start looking for a weaver 6-24x40mm classic V24.It is a great scope for the money and very clear and can be had used for about 225.00- 250.00 and it is amazingly clear and accurate scope for the money.The other one would be a busnell 4200 8-32x40mm,used around 350.00 in perfect condition.No ring marks or light marks at best.I am going to get beat over the head for this one but a tasco world class plus 8-32x50mm is a nice scope and they usually sell for 200.00 or alittle less. They are a copy of a leupold internally.I have several left and the ones I have are dead nuts.
 
Fozybear23, Following link for your info. Prices are a little dated.
http://www.accurateshooter.com/optics/target-scopes/
 
Jon, the internal adjustment range of the B&L 4200 8-32x40 is abysmal. 26 MOA total. One of the lowest in the industry.
 
OP, one of the scopes you mentioned is an excellent option, and it's "on sale" at Midway: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/123107/nikon-buckmasters-rifle-scope-6-18x-40mm-side-focus-mil-dot-reticle-matte

One of the benefits of the mildot reticle is that you can use it for holdover aiming if/when you run out of "up" with the scope's internal adjustments.
 
Thanks for all the great info. Yeah after I posted the question I noticed that I posted it in the wrong area again. I'm new to the site, sorry again for my mistake. I have tried google with this question but I kept finding articles or answers that always leaned towards 1000.00 plus scopes and I just can afford them. I also ran into articles that seemed pretty old 5-10 years, and I didn't know if there was some new products that may have come out that I just don't know about. I was leaning on you guys cause you all seem pretty experienced and I felt stupid for asking a question that has been ask a thousands times. But am glad I did because I was pleased to see that a few people gave me a few more options to look at that didn't know about. Again truly sorry that I had posted a question in the wrong area, and asking the same question that others have already been asked and answered.
 
This is also a stupid question, but is 40mm ok? Didn't know if light was going to be an issue or if I needed 30mm or if 1 inch was fine. I have never shot that far the range only 200 yards. So I was kind of unsure about what I needed at 3x the distance I was currently at.
 
Fozybear23 said:
is 40mm ok? Didn't know if light was going to be an issue or if I needed 30mm or if 1 inch was fine.

1" tube, and 40mm objective is fine. Scope will weigh less and won't sit as tall above the action (better for cheekweld, esp. if your stock isn't adjustable). Don't get wrapped up in things like light transmission and all of that BS. You won't notice any of this unless you compared scopes side-by-side under similar conditions. And compared to the scope you have now, you'll probably get something way better.

Maintube diameter has no bearing on light-gathering of the scope. Objective size will, and quality of glass and coatings. 30mm vs. 1", for example, will normally yield more internal adjustment in the former vs. the latter. NOT more light gathering.

Like I said -- set a budget, choose reticle and mag, and then buy a scope (whether new or used) and start using it. Analysis paralysis won't get you anywhere in the beginning. Range time will. 8)
 
My advice would be take what you have and go shoot it. Once you have done that a couple of times you will have a much better idea of what you need, or you might find it is just fine. If you are competing just for fun it can be awesome to take sh1tty gear and stick it to the customs (I am a custom owner).

Anyways - IMO if you have gear already, use it to help develop your knowledge and understanding of what you need. Lets face it, the guys that buy the top of the line stuff still swap it out for something "better". Absolutely there comes a time to replace what you have but I don't believe its day one.

Good luck and have fun!
 
All good advice. Right off the bat the first thing I thought was what 6BRinNZ posted, 2nd is I like the V24 that Jon mentioned for starters when you decide when and if you need to upgrade. The reason the V24 is because it will not break the bank and you can turn the power down when the mirage gets up. I also like the T Series, the only thing bad about them is when the mirage is up, you can't turn the power down ( IT SUCKS ).
 
the 8x32x40 will work fine i used one for years until i could afford a new/better scope i still have it use it as a back up
 
Dgd6mm said:
The reason the V24 is because it will not break the bank and you can turn the power down when the mirage gets up. I also like the T Series, the only thing bad about them is when the mirage is up, you can't turn the power down ( IT SUCKS ).
[br]
I never reduce power below 42X and it has no discernible effect on my scores. It is true that the target can be seen more clearly at lower magnification during heavy mirage conditions, it just did not improve my scores.
 
Steve Blair said:
Dgd6mm said:
The reason the V24 is because it will not break the bank and you can turn the power down when the mirage gets up. I also like the T Series, the only thing bad about them is when the mirage is up, you can't turn the power down ( IT SUCKS ).
[br]
I never reduce power below 42X and it has no discernible effect on my scores. It is true that the target can be seen more clearly at lower magnification during heavy mirage conditions, it just did not improve my scores.

Steve, same thing for me when I'm using my N.F.
 
A Weaver T-24 would fill your needs very well. It's about the most cost-effective "good" scope you can buy. I suggest the T-24 over the T-36 because the T-36 can become impossible to see through during heavy mirage. The T-24, on the other hand, is still quite usable in heavy mirage.
 
jonbearman said:
Start looking for a weaver 6-24x40mm classic V24.It is a great scope for the money and very clear and can be had used for about 225.00- 250.00 and it is amazingly clear and accurate scope for the money.The other one would be a busnell 4200 8-32x40mm,used around 350.00 in perfect condition.No ring marks or light marks at best.I am going to get beat over the head for this one but a tasco world class plus 8-32x50mm is a nice scope and they usually sell for 200.00 or alittle less. They are a copy of a leupold internally.I have several left and the ones I have are dead nuts.
Good advice on all the scopes. I shot some very good 600 groups with the Bushnell mentioned above before upgrading to a Nightforce. Later! Frank
 
There is certainly a lot of options out there. I am on the budget end for 600y F-class and went an entire year with a Barska Varmint 6-24x42 scope and a 20MOA rail. I have since upgraded, but only because the Barska optics weren't very clear at 24X (I shot at 20X without trouble), and the cross-hairs were thick not thin. I would highly recommend MOA or Mil divisions/markings to aid in reading the wind and/or correcting for distance.

-Mac
 
Mac in his above response nailed what had not been touched on, reticle type. Since I believe you had mentioned a Buckmaster, just do not get a scope with a heavy duplex reticle. They are great for close range brush shooting but terrible for 600 yards. You will hear the term "aim small, miss small". With a fat reticle, aiming small will be impossible at 600 yards. Good luck with your new found hobby and most of all HAVE FUN!
 
A recent Dope Bag review in American Rifleman, Feb,14 I believe was very positive on a Simons 6X24 target scope with a 30 mm tube. They are available from several sources for just over $200. Optics Planet was $209 with free shipping recently. Also consider a thin shim under scope mount rear to buy a little extra elevation for 600 yds. You probably don't need a full 20 moa mount but a little extra comes in handy. I also believe Berger has a very nice 25 cal match bullet. Also I recall Sierra may have one as well. Good luck and welcome to the game.
 

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