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$300.00 Annealers information please pros cons

I sold my Anealeze and went this way:


I was never confident my cases were being heated to a high enough temperature to truly anneal them with the Annealeze, but was afraid to slow it down more for fear of damaging the drive wheels. I believe my consistency is much improved now, because you can set the heating time to the second. I line the cases up on my cast iron table saw table, which acts as a "heat sink". This allows me to heat the necks and shoulders, and not worry about the heat migrating to the base.

This is a no brainer.
 
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I have the AGS and couldn't be happier. It's plain, simple to set up, and it works!
I did the torch/socket thing for years but I wanted to be a bit more precise. Never heard of AGS till I read this and I immediately looked them up. Liked what I saw and after reading the other comments from the rest of you I ordered one Sunday afternoon. Just unboxed it and now I’m gonna play! Thanks guys.

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I did the torch/socket thing for years but I wanted to be a bit more precise. Never heard of AGS till I read this and I immediately looked them up. Liked what I saw and after reading the other comments from the rest of you I ordered one Sunday afternoon. Just unboxed it and now I’m gonna play! Thanks guys.

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For 200 bucks looks pretty nifty and compact. I guess you can adjust speed/time with a speed controller for the rotating arm. Looks pretty simple stupid.My style. I might try one instead of my potters wheel. My favorite torch has a smaller shroud than the 1/2in std and needle point flame. I like this better for small cases so dont over heat the end of neck before getting the rest cooked. I will call them for ideas on a sleeve or maybe they can sell me a blank tip holder so I can make my own.
 
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For 200 bucks looks pretty nifty and compact. I guess you can adjust speed/time with a speed controller for the rotating arm. Looks pretty simple stupid.My style. I might try one instead of my potters wheel. My favorite torch has a smaller shroud than the 1/2in std and needle point flame. I like this better for small cases so dont over heat the end of neck before getting the rest cooked. I will call them for ideas on a sleeve or maybe they can sell me a blank tip holder so I can make my own.
Haven’t talked with him personally, but from what many say, the owner, Stefan, is very knowledgeable and helpful. Now back to playing!!
 
Like I said I love mine, I took the torch holder off the body of the unit, I did that because I noticed it was heating up everything, I used the clamp for the torch and put it on a free-standing base so it no longer contacts the main body, and it works well like this I can adjust the flame angle anyway I want!
 
This is just my experience and opinion...

IMO you need a machine to get a consistent anneal... those that use a handheld drill method..... I'm sorry but the location of the flame and consistent time in the flame isnt...... consistent... machine will get you that consistent anneal.

I've used annealers with hoppers and got tired of swapping out parts and by the time I fiddled around with swapping parts and filling a hopper WITH bridging issues and brass not spinning correctly, I was already well into annealing with the EP 2.0 annealer. Having a hopper doesn't make it a faster process. If it takes XYZ time to flame base anneal XYZ brass, then having a hopper is just something you need to fill up and then start the process of annealing. Not like you can fill up a hopper and go mow the yard while you have an open flame. You still need to watch the process. If it takes 5 to 6 seconds to flame base anneal XYZ case with a single torch then it still takes 5 to 6 seconds to anneal XYZ case regardles if it has a hopper or not.

If you need to pick up the brass and manually orientate the brass in the right direction and fill up a hopper and then change out parts to go from cartridge to cartridge then IMO it doesnt really matter if its single feed or has a hopper, and I'll take the speed of the EP 2.0 change over from cartridge to cartridge that can go from 5.7x28 /17hornet size casings to 50 bmg, rim or no rim it doesn't matter, and adjust in seconds without having to add or remove any parts. Very very small footprint also. Pure KISS method.

Now,,,,,,,, if it had a case feeder where you don't need to orientate the brass manually and the machine can orientate and feed the brass for you,,,, then that's a whole different story but to get a case feeder (not a hopper = big difference), and can adjust from 5.7 to 50bmg on the case feeder too = cost money... once again just keep it simple stupid IMO.

As a side note, I wouldn't want my torch head mounted... for the sole reason of going from cartridge to different cartridge size. It's fast and easy. Move it, leave it, and forget it...

For someone that has used both,,,, it's my experience and hopefully this helps.

Just for example..100 anneals at 6 seconds each is 600 seconds. 600 divided by 60 seconds is 10 minutes which is a drop in the reloading time bucket IMO
 
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I am like NorthCalMikie, if you want to spend the dollars on the fancy one's, go for it. But I will use the torch, socket and do them like they have been done, by thousands over the years and use that extra money to buy bullets and powder and do more shooting.
 
Sooo for y'all using these $300 or less annealer machines.
Are any of y'all seating using inline seater with seating force gauge.ive been very curious how consistent bullet seating force is compared to a AMP?
 
Sooo for y'all using these $300 or less annealer machines.
Are any of y'all seating using inline seater with seating force gauge.ive been very curious how consistent bullet seating force is compared to a AMP?
The guy who put up the DIY induction annealer video on you tube did a follow up where he was testing seating pressure with a gauge and inline seater, might have been K & M and found very good consistency. You might want to check that out.
 
Like I said I love mine, I took the torch holder off the body of the unit, I did that because I noticed it was heating up everything, I used the clamp for the torch and put it on a free-standing base so it no longer contacts the main body, and it works well like this I can adjust the flame angle anyway I want!

I got mine and set it up. Immediately noticed, in dark room, that the flame goes all the way across the turn table so easy to burn hand. I wonder if the euros use a much smaller pinpoint torch? I dont want to set mine up on a separate stand as I only bought it for the compactness. But it works fine hand feeding them. The whole idea is to get even flame direction and time for consistent neck thickness. Rather disappointed but for 200 bucks it will do the trick. I had a couple of jams also which was a pita as it cooked the case in the flame. Hope that dosent happen too often, or again. Takes alot of work to make my cases. My pan wasnt full either to cause jam. I think it jammed on the turn style arm..it is a tad low. I might need to slip on a washer to raise it. Will mess with it more when I have time.
 
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I received mine this week along with the torches and hoses. I bought the additional stand for two torches. It's a sweet running little annealer for the price.

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If your flame is so long that it fries your fingers it's too long. 3/4" to 1" long flame. I prefer 3/4". The farthest station from the torch(s) is 4 inches. I can hold my fingers 4" from the the torches (both of them running) without being burned. This annealer has to be hand fed while running.
 
I got mine and set it up. Immediately noticed, in dark room, that the flame goes all the way across the turn table so easy to burn hand. I wonder if the euros use a much smaller pinpoint torch? I dont want to set mine up on a separate stand as I only bought it for the compactness. But it works fine hand feeding them. The whole idea is to get even flame direction and time for consistent neck thickness. Rather disappointed but for 200 bucks it will do the trick. I had a couple of jams also which was a pita as it cooked the case in the flame. Hope that dosent happen too often, or again. Takes alot of work to make my cases. My pan wasnt full either to cause jam. I think it jammed on the turn style arm..it is a tad low. I might need to slip on a washer to raise it. Will mess with it more when I have time.

A smaller pin point on the torch is needed.

Make sure the flame is pointed in the right direction or things will get hot and melt the glue around the bearing....yep....
 
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The guy who put up the DIY induction annealer video on you tube did a follow up where he was testing seating pressure with a gauge and inline seater, might have been K & M and found very good consistency. You might want to check that out.
Awesome I'll look it up
 
I use 1 torch, on a separate stand so I can adjust the flame angle, so I don't burn my hand loading cases, when you get the flame adjusted right and the duration of how long it under the flame all is well! this machine is awesome! for the money!
 

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