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30 BR new to this

Horsemen61

Hey everyone I have just purchased a used 30 BR and I am looking for some load data for it yes I know H4198 is the ticket no I don’t have any and it doesn’t look like I can get any in the near future I am starting completely from scratch folks

What I do have is as follows

Redding FL bushing sizer
(.323) bushing
Redding competition seater die
20 pieces of 6mm BR Remington brass
Berger 115 FB bullets
Primers FGMM 205’s
Powder
H benchmark
LT 30
N130
H 322

The rifle is a savage 12 action unknown benchrest stock unknown 26 inch stainless barrel with a weaver 36 on top I’d really like to stick with the above components I have I do need more brass I’m just not sure if the stuff they are calling
6mm BR Norma will work it’s why I haven’t bought any so any help there would be much appreciated

Thank you everyone for making a new guy feel welcome I’ve always been intimidated by the Benchrest World because I’d always heard it was a gatekeeping Good ole boys club but after getting into some of it like F T/R I can Assure you The Men and Women down at Big Piney Sportsman Club are as Nice of Folks as you’ll ever meet so again thank you everyone
 
First thing you need to know is the neck diameter of your chamber. Most have a.330 neck and will require neck turning. 6BR Norma should be the correct brass, unless it was chambered with reamer for Remington brass. The lt30 or n130 will both work fine for a 30br , berger 115's should be fine also. I would talk to the previous owner to get answers on the reamer that was used before you buy brass. A 30 br is a great cartridge and benchrest shooters are great folks and most all are glad to help a new shooter.
 
Just getting into B R with a 30BR is about as easy as it will get for you. It's a cartridge that is not finicky at all and will work well with both the LT-30 and VV-N130 powders you listed. Maybe the others but no experience with either of those. As mentioned above the 6BR Norma brass and is correct and you will need to know what chamber neck dimension you are working with in order to turn the brass correctly and which neck bushings to purchase for best results. If it is a .330 necked chamber turning the brass necks to .098 - .010 will be good with .324 - .326 bushings working well for neck tension. The Bart's 112 & 118 gr. along with Bib's 118 gr. and Berger 115 gr. have worked well in my ODCR Rem 700 BR 1 - 17 Tw. rifle and the 125 gr. Nosler Accu-bond is my hunting bullet in my ODCR Rem Model 7 30BR which delivers the bullet out the 23 inch barrel 1 - 15 Tw. muzzle at 3000 FPS. Deer can't stand much of that and a target bullseye don't stand a chance with a well developed load from a BR 30BR. Enjoy the ride and ask questions. There is no crazy questions if one don't know.
 
Welcome. If you stick around, you will learn that the people on this site share a common love for shooting and are far and w from “a gatekeeping Good ole boys club”.

Has the Remington brass been used (fired) in your gun with the 115fb Bergers that you have? You need to know the neck size of your chamber. If the brass and 115 bullets have been safely fired in your gun, you can load a dummy round and measure the finished round to get an indication of your chamber neck size.

The Lapua Norma brass is brass what most use to fireform 30br brass from. But again, you may have to turn the necks before fireforming it. You may also have to trim the brass, depending on your chamber length.

Another way to approach it would be to fireform, filling the case with the appropriate amount of powder and then topping it with a small wad of tissue paper instead of a bullet. This will form the case to the chamber and the outside of the neck will be very close to the neck chamber diameter, usually.0005-.001 less.

Most of us shoot custom actions so the loads you see being used are in custom actions, which are generally stronger than factory actions. Be careful to start low with your powder charges and work up paying close attention to signs of pressure.

With that said, once I figured out that my brass was the correct size, I would start off with either the Lt30 or N130 and a bullet jammed into the lands, and back off in .003 increments until I found the correct seating depth. After that, I would work on the powder charges.

Ask questions if you have them. The guys on here will have the answers and are more than willing to share. I say this based own my experience. There is no one in my town that knows anything about br shooting. I taught myself with the help of the guys on this site.
 
Thank you all for the info so the previous owner is a nonstarter for me I bought this rifle from a big box store so how would one go about figuring out the neck diameter chamber cast? Fire form a blank load? Like I said guys this is about as much from scratch as possible I’ll look into grabbing some 6br Norma brass thank you again
 
If it was chambered with a reamer based off of Remington brass,6 br norma is a little larger in the butt. Lapua brass will most likely work but i would check. A chamber cast will give you the neck diameter, if the brass was fired in the gun you can get a decent idea from measuring the neck on it. It should be about .001 under actual neck diameter if it was fired in the gun.
 
Horsemen61 said:
Thank you all for the info so the previous owner is a nonstarter for me I bought this rifle from a big box store so how would one go about figuring out the neck diameter chamber cast? Fire form a blank load? Like I said guys this is about as much from scratch as possible I’ll look into grabbing some 6br Norma brass thank you again
Click to expand...
If there are no stampings then yes, you'll need a chamber cast to know what you have. Trying to fireform a case for a reference is a bad idea.
I'd document everything well and hang on to it. You'll need it again sooner or later.
 

TECH Tip — 30 BR Case-Forming Explained by Experts « Daily Bulletin

The 30BR is an amazing little cartridge. However, 30BR shooters do have to neck-up 6mmBR brass and then deal with some issues that can arise from the expansion process. One of our Forum members was concerned about the donut that can form at the new (expanded) neck-shoulder junction.
bulletin.accurateshooter.com bulletin.accurateshooter.com

“The best method for avoiding the ‘bulge’ is to fire-form prior to neck-turning (several methods are successfully employed). Cutting too deeply into the shoulder can result in case-neck separations. I have witnessed this, but, with several barrels and thousands to shots fired, have not [personally] experienced it.”
 
Ccrider said:

TECH Tip — 30 BR Case-Forming Explained by Experts « Daily Bulletin

The 30BR is an amazing little cartridge. However, 30BR shooters do have to neck-up 6mmBR brass and then deal with some issues that can arise from the expansion process. One of our Forum members was concerned about the donut that can form at the new (expanded) neck-shoulder junction.
bulletin.accurateshooter.com bulletin.accurateshooter.com

“The best method for avoiding the ‘bulge’ is to fire-form prior to neck-turning (several methods are successfully employed). Cutting too deeply into the shoulder can result in case-neck separations. I have witnessed this, but, with several barrels and thousands to shots fired, have not [personally] experienced it.”
Click to expand...
That's completely different than trying to fireform to determine the neck diameter in the chamber however.

Unless I misunderstood, that's what the OP was thinking of trying.
 
I have actually fireformed 6mm br brass for two used 30br barrels that I did not know the exact dimensions. 6mm Lapua Norma brass neck measures .267 +/-. No need to turn first, even on a tight neck 330 30br barrel, if you fireform the 6br case using toilet paper without a bullet.

Fire the case two to three times and you will have blown the shoulders and neck out to the size of the chamber, and will have spring back in the neck which generally will run between.0005 and .001.

What I expected someone might point out is that the downside is that while you will get a good info on the neck size, you still will not know chamber length, which is good to know. For this, I use a Sinclair chamber length gauge. In the first barrel I had, I just trimmed to 1.500 and kept the brass at that length. No big deal if it was a little short.

Also, depending on the length of your chamber, the blown out brass may touch the end if the chamber. If so, expand and trim.

Again, this is just how I have done it, rather than casting the chamber which is something I have never done. It has worked fine for me.
 
Ccrider said:
I have actually fireformed 6mm br brass for two used 30br barrels that I did not know the exact dimensions. 6mm Lapua Norma brass neck measures .267 +/-. No need to turn first, even on a tight neck 330 30br barrel, if you fireform the 6br case using toilet paper without a bullet.

Fire the case two to three times and you will have blown the shoulders and neck out to the size of the chamber, and will have spring back in the neck which generally will run between.0005 and .001.

What I expected someone might point out is that the downside is that while you will get a good info on the neck size, you still will not know chamber length, which is good to know. For this, I use a Sinclair chamber length gauge. In the first barrel I had, I just trimmed to 1.500 and kept the brass at that length. No big deal if it was a little short.

Also, depending on the length of your chamber, the blown out brass may touch the end if the chamber. If so, expand and trim.

Again, this is just how I have done it, rather than casting the chamber which is something I have never done. It has worked fine for me.
Click to expand...
Which powder and how much did you use ?
 
Ccrider said:
I have actually fireformed 6mm br brass for two used 30br barrels that I did not know the exact dimensions. 6mm Lapua Norma brass neck measures .267 +/-. No need to turn first, even on a tight neck 330 30br barrel, if you fireform the 6br case using toilet paper without a bullet.

Fire the case two to three times and you will have blown the shoulders and neck out to the size of the chamber, and will have spring back in the neck which generally will run between.0005 and .001.

What I expected someone might point out is that the downside is that while you will get a good info on the neck size, you still will not know chamber length, which is good to know. For this, I use a Sinclair chamber length gauge. In the first barrel I had, I just trimmed to 1.500 and kept the brass at that length. No big deal if it was a little short. I like a

Also, depending on the length of your chamber, the blown out brass may touch the end if the chamber. If so, expand and trim.

Again, this is just how I have done it, rather than casting the chamber which is something I have never done. It has worked fine for me.
Click to expand...
I like a chamber casting because it also gives you a reference to freebore and throat information. Not necessary to have, but I've never wished I had less information to work with, so I get all I can.
A chamber cast doesn't tell you headspace/chamber length either. Or at least not the way I do it.

Many different ways to approach a problem. Not every solution is ideal for every individual. Go with whatever works for you and that your comfortable with.
 
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