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.30-28 Nosler

Hoping H1000 can run them about 3000. Then you really have a stable hunting round.
I love quick load. It great for playing with powders and looking at pressures. Its usually very close. The exception is these Nosler cases. I am not sure that we are not way over pressure but they take it. Fine with me, the over performing cases seem to do well (ie Dasher)
 
Hoping H1000 can run them about 3000. Then you really have a stable hunting round.
I love quick load. It great for playing with powders and looking at pressures. Its usually very close. The exception is these Nosler cases. I am not sure that we are not way over pressure but they take it. Fine with me, the over performing cases seem to do well (ie Dasher)
Of the 4 I developed for 277/26, 28, 30/26 and 338/26, some loads came out within 3fps of predicted and the Pressure Trace III was withing a few hundred lb. Most pretty good. All matching indicators on the brass vs readings from Magnetospeed and Pressure Trace II. The exceptionj was the 28. Mine showed slow and high pressure vs predicted. I am building a new one anyway.

I may have a picture somewhere a one of the rifles trussed up with the MagnetoSpeed and Pressure Trace II with the computer screen. Or it could be on one of the dead phones.
 
You might try N-570 if you can find some. It gets R-33 velocity but burns cleaner.

I just bought a Proof barrel and LRCF stock from Stocky's this weekend and was trying to decide what to make. This would be a good option it sounds like. What dies are you using Tom?
 
Alex or tom, what barrel taper/muzzle diameter, and brake diameter are you guys running? I have a rusty old reamer I bought many moons ago I need to play with :cool:
 
This one is a Remington magnum sporter. About .670 at the muzzle. .875 4 port beast brake from muzzle brake n more. 5/8x24 tpi. The only brake I will be using from now one. So much more effective than all the others I have used.
 
OK, you`re using a brake that needs timing, I`ll tell you I`ll be the first to ask when is the brake timing video to be released....:) ??
 
How are you timing it? With a lathe? Then it is 1 divided by the thread pitch to get you the length of one revolution. 24tpi is .0417 or about .010 per 90 degrees and 28tpi is about .009" per 90 degrees. I do make 2 piece self timed brakes as well for those without a lathe and don't want to use a shims or washers.
 
OK, you`re using a brake that needs timing, I`ll tell you I`ll be the first to ask when is the brake timing video to be released....:) ??

I time barrels by the curve in the bore, add in flutes and a timed brake and things get fun. Its easy really. I can say, torque the action on first. Cut the shoulder on the barrel back a few thousandths less than you think you need. Leave the brake slightly advanced. Once it out of the lathe and you can properly tighten it, it will usually go past where you expected.

Say the brake needs to turn 90 degrees to line up right. On a 24 pitch thread thats about .010". I would cut .007" off the shoulder and try the brake. If it was just slightly advanced I'd go with it. Take .010 and when you torque it you may go past.
 
I'm helping a close friend using #5 Brux and chambering a 338 Lapua, he is going to need an amazing break. I like the feedback so far. I'm just a shade tree when real machinist steps need to be taken.
 
Well I tracked down some RL-26 today locally. Alliant claims this powder is designed for outstanding efficiency and speed in large magnum cases, it has excellent temperature stability, and utilizes high density technology to allow more powder into a case. I have no doubt that Alliant powders produce the best speeds in general for any given burn rate (at least thats been my personal experience over the years) and their temp stability technology is proving itself as more people test their new powders in varying weather conditions. But what about this high density claim on RL-26??? So I decided to test it out...

With some research, I discovered RL-26 burn rate is right in there with H1000 and Retumbo. So using the same exact piece of 338-375 Ruger brass, I filled the case up to the very top and packed the kernels as tightly as I could get them with all 3 of those powders. I have no doubt in my mind now that Alliant's high density technology claim is true.

Here are pics of the 3 powders filled to the top of the same case. First is RL-26, second H1000, third, Retumbo.

2017-06-01 21.11.35.jpg

2017-06-01 21.11.20.jpg

2017-06-01 21.11.01.jpg


The results were quite amazing actually. I may have been off by 2 or 3 tenths of a grain with how the kernels packed, but the difference in charge weights was too great to discredit Alliant's density claim. It is by far more dense than Retumbo and a little more dense than H1000.

The charge weights measured as follows:

RL-26 = 99.1 gr

H1000 = 96.2 gr

Retumbo = 91.7 gr
 
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Good points. Temp stability is very important. Especially with the unpredictable weather in Montana. Shot my bull elk last year in late October opening weekend and it was nearly 60 degrees that day. I test all my hunting loads at 20-40 deg F.

I load the 200gr Accubond for my best friend in his 300 win mag at 2860 fps. He's had excellent results with it on elk and deer. The 200gr has a thicker jacket and doesn't rapidly expand or explode like the 180gr Accubond can on tough bone and muscle. With a BC of .588 the heavy AB ain't no slouch at long range either. Bet you could get some pretty awesome speeds with a 200 gr bullet. The shorter bullet length would free up some real estate in the case as well.
 
Brandon,

Rl 33 is also a very dense technology. Neither of which I was very impressed with last season when it came to temperature swings, quite hideous to be frank. I ran this up with 33 because I had some, and plan on h1000 if I can get it to shoot. H1000 is very stable across a huge range from my own testing through the years. I had this built for hunting mainly elk. If it was all about ballistics I would have done a 28. What I saw last year with the 195 grain 7mm was sickening. I can guarantee you I would never shoot one at a game animal. Which brings us back to comparing 180 7mm vs 215 or 230 30 cals. Heck, if I knew this brake would stop a 9 lb rifle this well I might have gave 33 bore a better look. We all know how the 338s work on game. Honestly, any BC up near .55 or better, at a velocity near 2800 or better is plenty good to make good shots. Energy and bullet performance need to be looked at more than anything, and I'm not all that opposed to trying 200 grain accubonds at some point for that reason.

Tom
From my testing in a 338 Lapua IMP, I didnt see much temperature swing with RE33. I shot it at 40 degrees and 0. My clicks at a little over 1500 yards remained almost the same. Maybe it has something to do with the 300 grain bullet or altitude. Matt
 
This one is a Remington magnum sporter. About .670 at the muzzle. .875 4 port beast brake from muzzle brake n more. 5/8x24 tpi. The only brake I will be using from now one. So much more effective than all the others I have used.
Been telling folks about this guy's brakes for years. All I use, they are awesome. He makes a self timing beast brake as well. Makes my 6.5x47 kick less than a 223.
 
This one is a Remington magnum sporter. About .670 at the muzzle. .875 4 port beast brake from muzzle brake n more. 5/8x24 tpi. The only brake I will be using from now one. So much more effective than all the others I have used.

I have been using Nathan's brakes since he designed the beast. They are the only brake I will ever use or install. They are so effective it's crazy. I built a 8.5lb 28nosler and put one of the 3 port and its very impressive watching hits at 1000 with. The recoil comes strait back and the rifle hardly moves.
 
You guys are making me blush :oops: :D. Thanks for the kind words. There will be more cool guy stuff in the next couple months. I have to replenish my inventory of Beast brakes in the next month but after that I'll work on slab brakes and maybe some Ti brakes. Who knows maybe some bolt fluting and other gadgets. I have to boogie for the next couple months so I can chill a bit in hunting season :cool:.
 
Kind of like you alluded to earlier Mr Wheeler, Im of the opinion that one of the requirements/contributors to accuracy is a case which can handle some serious pressure. Obviously many other things play into a given round''s precision, but most cases that see success in precision-demanding competitions, have the ability to withstand some big psi numbers. Whether its a direct or indirect relationship; you can pretty well bet that if a case can handle high pressures unusually well along with meeting any other requirements of class being shot, it will likely make for a pretty good choice for competition.
Hence, IMO the 6.5x68 RWS is very wrongly overlooked. I realize the brass is pretty exclusive but HDS appears to have it. I think a shortened(.30 BooBoo?) or even plain .30x68 RWS would group right there with a .300 WSM @1000yd and provide slightly better MV's. A hot rod .30x68 sending 187gr BIBs at a good tick should be a killer at 1kyd. Load it up with some 198gr Flatlines at a smoking velocity and it should make a 2000+ yd monster. And its the toughest large primer case on the market, can last forever. Pretty much same capacity as these new Nosler magnums, which dont seem to be much more than Dakota's line of magnums with a new name + marketing.
 

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