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30-06 Remington Model 1917, a 106 year old butchered (sporterized) battle rifle

45 grains H4895, Sierra 168 grain match, LC 72 brass with CCI LR primer. 15 rounds clocked at muzzle average 2479 FPS. Trajectory ran from 8" high at 100 yards to a center zero at 300 yards on steel. 5 shots on steel looked to me to be a bit over 6". I was too lazy to walk down and measure since there's more to do with the rifle. 5 shots, 5 dings.

Top hole off the plate is a measured, 8" from the center dot. At three 300 the center hold just didn't make sense if you looked at the computers
1653602111_20230916_144127_1913613_resized.jpg
 
It'll be a Model 1917, AKA P17. I own a BSA sporterised P14 in .303 brit. Shoots a bit better than that, mind you, it's scoped.

Some of those open sights are designed for a 6 o'clock hold - that is, shoot high, so the target is not obstructed. Not sure about the P17 version.
 
It'll be a Model 1917, AKA P17. I own a BSA sporterised P14 in .303 brit. Shoots a bit better than that, mind you, it's scoped.

Some of those open sights are designed for a 6 o'clock hold - that is, shoot high, so the target is not obstructed. Not sure about the P17 version.
This one is sick, the barrel is fine I believe but the stock needs love.

What I didn't get was how the trajectory is not close to any ballistic program the kids try. It seems off by almost 2 inches.
 
Sounds like a Model of 1917….great rifle. I used my dad’s for years. Moderately sporterized with a Weaver 4x. Dad’s is a Winchester.

open sights or scope?
 
Sounds like a Model of 1917….great rifle. I used my dad’s for years. Moderately sporterized with a Weaver 4x. Dad’s is a Winchester.

open sights or scope?
I have a sope on it right now to mote accurately test the changes I make, it needs love but I'm betting just a few minor changes will get her working. She was drilled and tapped when I got her but she also has a precision Lyman aperture and I will return to that when the work is done.
 
Well interesting post….do you have a question? Also, do you have a pic of the rifle?
I believe I have a pic somewhere, I have no questions right now because I haven't exhausted my bag of tricks. However I will post the solution, right now I want to resolve a bad ejector.

So far all I've done is relieve binding in the stock and provided a pressure point for the barrel at the end of the stock.

It was a shotgun pattern rifle in terms of grouping when I got it, I removed some binding points and it went from improved cylinder to modified.

After the pressure point was added it did become a rifle with some potential. I'm hoping to get a cold bore 3 shot 100 yard group around an inch to and inch and a half. However to achieve that I going to have to dump that generic H4895 load.
 
I built on one back in the 1970s. It was already sporterized so we cut the barrel to 18", trimmed the wood to the bare minimum, relieved it of all excess metal and put a receiver sight and hooded ramp front sight. It was down right handy. Tossing 220gr RNs it earned its keep in northern MN. A bear hunter wanted it bad so off it went, it was stolen from him in Globe AZ...It shot extremely well and I liked the cock on closing.
 
I have one sportized with a new stock etc I stilll use hunting elk in Utah works well. Wish I had kept it stock as my brother has
 
They do get (incorrectly) labeled as P17 here, in the Antipodes. Many were issued to home guard units during the 2nd war to end all wars.
A broad red paint stripe on the rifles butt to indicate it was for 30 06 ammo and not .303 that it's predecessor uses (the P14)
 

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