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.284win gurus, dies selection?

seb

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I would like to buy FL & seater dies for my (plain) .284win. I need your help/input, please. This is my first long range BR rifle.

Could you please tell me which (maker) dies are best from your experience?
FL die = ...........? Is "bushing type" better???
Seating die = ..........?

Just curious,....if using standard Forster FL die, how many inch is the "typical loaded neck"?..... would it be too large/too small/ok for my .316 neck? (assuming I would like 0.004 clearance total).
Plan to use Lapua 6.5x284 brass...I do not know the factory's neck thickness etc, yet.

Sorry, perhaps just dumb questions, but I'm always newbie to reloading.

Any input will be much appreciated.
Thanks you,
seb.
 
Seb,
I use Redding FL neck bushing die and a Wilson seater die, that seems to work good for many people.
 
SEB.

As a person who appreciates fine machining work, you might want to look at the Warner Tool full length sizing die. It is a large die body that accepts inserts for specific calibers and neck bushings in whatever sizes you want. Expensive initially but very quick to set up for additional calibers. I use it for my 284 Shehane, 6mmBR, and 7mm RSAUM with another couple of more later this year
 
Plus 1 on Warners Full Length sizing die...
Just be careful you don't drop it on your foot, because it will hurt....
 
I have been down the .284 trail.

Using 6.5/.284 lapua brass:

I found the Sinclair tapered neck expander to be a worth while addition to my .284 loading procedure.

I found the standard Redding Full length sizing die with a .309 neck worked better than the FL S type die, at least on the first sizing after neck expansion.

I found the non neckturned .284 to have a loaded neck diameter .3125.

My reamer custs a .3175 neck.

The SAAMI spec neck diameter for a .284 is .320 and most factory guns were chambered to the SAAMI spec.
Nat Lambeth
 
TonyR, Preacher,....I can only say "Wow" on the Warner! Never seen it before this, honestly.
Anyway IT's not my choice at this time being as I will use the gun this Nov and wouldn't be able to send fired brass etc. I need a "ready to use" dies now, even it's not a "perfect" one.
Thanks you for the input!

Froggie, thanks you...but the same to Neil Jones or Newlon blank, for this time.

Rustystud, you give me a valuable info on the loaded neck with the standard FL die. Thanks!
I might probably give the Redding (or Forster) FL die a try....a light cut is what I need, I think...assuming the die is cut properly/straight/square, I more prefer a "one piece-one cut" die. (besides, brass life is not my concern at all).
Time allows, I'll make the press myself....will only make sure the thread-stem etc are straight & square.

.............
Now on the seater die.... I think I will go with the chamber type Wilson. My late PPC had a Wilson seater too and I like it!

The gun is a LG, by the way. I might probably try the New A-max 162gr (including the Berger VLD/Hybrid). I was told that my freebore is only .120 long (was too late to ask a longer throat). --- Do I need two different seater stem for these bullets?

.............
I will show you the rifle stock for inputs, in a few days. It's a "hybrid" between short range & long range BR stock, maybe even for F-class (at least for me/for my purpose).

Best,
seb.
 
Some pics as promised.... please see the attachments.

The stock etc is still not finished yet, only to show you the shape/configuration.
The "dummy" action & barrel is only for scale/proportion.

The concept is a budget barrel change rifle, in 6ppc & 284win.
The action is a Stolle Panda RBRP-RE with ".308" bolt face. The PPC barrel is 21.5" long. The .284win barrel is approx 30" long. The 'main" rifle is the PPC, but I would also try the 1,000 yds and F-class in the next future. This gun is designed for LV class with the PPC, and LG class with the .284.
I hope this gun can/will shoot as expected!

...........
The stock... As a man who loves experiment (and unfortunately poor, lol), I need to make the stock (etc) myself. I was thinking to make two different stocks before but I changed my mind. After some contemplating with the designs & inputs from some friends in this forum, I decided to make one stock only - "that suits all". (It sounds too ambitious, ain't it!? I would say YES too! lol.;D).

First thing is, the stock must be rigid/solid & long enough, but still make weight in "LV mode" 10.5 lbs. Secondly, it must be able to be used for prone/F-class shooting also (and comfort, still). Lastly, it must be a low rider & must have weight system.

From my past experience on my 'Swallowtail' stock, I know I need a more longer & stronger stock. I keep the butt at 3 inches wide, because I feel it gave me more stable setup and rides on the bag very well. What I need is a little improvement such as a more simpler shape & approach. (I don't want to spend too much time now!). But basically it will resemble my previous swallowtail stock, just more simple.

I have maximum 870 grams for the stock, in "LV mode" 10.5 lbs. (this assuming I use a Sightron 36x).
I have maximum 2,000 grams for the stock + weight/attachments, in "LG mode" 17 lbs. (with same scope).
The action is decided to be glued-in + two extra screws (rear & front).

I chose to use carbon fiber + epoxy resin for the outer shell and again light wood inside. It's a simple decision anyway, and I also find that working with carbon fiber is much more pleasant compared to itchy & stiff fiber glass. Personally I feel wood & carbon fiber (wrap around) combination will give rigidity advantage and it feels "solid" too. (no "ringing feel" when you knock the stock, so vibration dampening ability should be good).
However, being idiot and live in low-tech in Indonesia (lol), I did the work - perhaps just like what you guys in progressive countries did to make a stock several thousand years ago in "stone-age" era...(well, maybe, lol). I hand laid the carbon fiber and didn't use vacuum press, etc. I don't even know how to use a vacuum press nor do know how it work! This is the first time I work with carbon fiber. I still have some rough spots "here & there". (Next time I must be much better, anyway).
However, the stock & "the attachments" are straight & parallel (within 0.015" or so). I use a milling machine to make/shape the out lines.

The stock is approximately 35" long, already fine sanded & ready for some airbrush work. It's now about 840 grams and will weight approx. 860 grams or so, finished.
Yes it is rigid, feels "solid", balance "right" also. It will be pretty when finished, too.
The rear butt of the stock has a large convex for more comfort recoil. It allows my shoulder to square on it.
The stock has built-in female threads inside (in front & rear) to accept "the attachments".

The "front/foreend attachment" is made from wood + fiber. It's 10" long by 8" wide for extra lateral support. Weight approx. 350 grams. It's for the Flyshoot & the 1,000yds BR. I don't think it's usable/allowed for F-class.
The "rear/butt attachment" is made from alum 7000 series, weight approx. 800 grams. It gives weight on the rear, also to make a more straighter toe angle (to be approx. 3.5 degrees from horizontal line) for the Fly/1,000yds/F-class, and a larger surface to accept the recoil of the .284, in the same time. The stock is not designed to accept rubber recoil pad. It follows the shape of the rear stock (convex), with catamaran hull shape, and is secured to the bottom of the buttstock by three screws. I can add more weight inside the rear attachment (or make a another one from solid S/S block), say for HG class. But later on this.

The stock, without the fore end & butt attachment, must be fine for the LV/HV short range. (I have no doubt on this). The bottom of the fore arm & butt stock is flat, and the "toe angle" is just correct (will intersect the center line of bore at 17"-18" in front of the bolt face). The bottom of the buttstock is made flat (not catamaran) to prevent breaking the short range BR stock rules.
I'll probably add a weight on the bottom of the buttstock for HV class, say from 1/2" thick S/S plate, still maintain the allowed toe angle.
Yes it will need special rear bag, I've done it before this with good result.

With the foreend attachment, the stock will extend up to 39" long. It is slipped & interlocking into the foreend, and is secured by two screws from the bottom. (the screw holes on the bottom of the foreend wouldn't interfere with front bag in "LV/HV mode"). I intentionally make it symmetry (not offset) as it is already quite stable at 8" wide. The bore of the barrel will be about 1 7/8" from the bottom of the front wing. I guess/hope it would minimize the torque effect of the .284.

........

Your thought???


Best,
seb.
 

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More photos...

seb.
 

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Hi Seb....great lookng work.....not being critical but think about offsetting the forend to resist torque....its legal and some are doing it with success...Roger
 
Roger,
People (can) learn from mistakes & must open to (positive) critisms. I like critism & inputs myself.
Thanks! I did try an offset-able foreend attachment (can be set in the center/symmetry, or up to 6" to the left & 2" to the right), using an alum plate, but it looks "not right" to my eyes...I mean "not match" with the entire stock.
The one shown in the photo is the newer one.
The alum plate is on the bottom of the loading block in the photo.

I have a .308 recently built myself (not a true bench rifle though), will probably try to make another 8" wide attachment on the 2 1/4" foreend and then learn how it resists the torque. I have the front rest almost ready too.

seb.
 
More photo... butt stock close up

seb.
 

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+1 on the warner dies. Amazing piece of engineering. I have several for my various rifles; 6x47L, 7WSM, 338LM Improved.

I also has a set fo Neil Jones for my tactical 7WSM. Very nice too.

Personally, I think if you take the time and $$$$ investment to buy your reamers (I do) you'll appreciate a set of custom dies designed from the ground up for that chamber.

JeffVN
 
Thanks Jeff.
You're correct, I think I will get my own reamer next time.
Perhaps just the chamber reamer and I can also make my own seater die. I dunno, still.

seb.
 

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