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284 winchester

Hi all, I was thinking of building a 284 win. Could anyone give me some tips on which bullets, powders and cases to choose or any other info reguarding the 284.

Thanks,
 
Standard 284 brass I believe you will be limited to Winchester unless you want to try necking up 6.5/284 brass in that case I would go with Lapua are you building a rifle in this caliber if so I would figure out what bullet you intend to shoot and make sure the throat dimensions are correct because when this factory chambering came about many years ago I don't think there were any 168 to 180 gr match bullets back then Good Luck
 
Winchester brass is all you can get in the 284 Winchester and if you check it all you can come up with some very good cases.
The other choice is to buy Lapua 6.5X284 and neck it up, or use Hornady 6.5X284 brass, Lapua is tons better though.....
It depends on what your planning on doing with it, but the 140 Ballistic tip, and H- 4350 is a good place to start.
I have a few .284's that are gathering dust because of the 7mm SAUM.
Check that 7mm SAUM out before you do a .284 Winchester because there is a lot of advantage to it...........
 
A good article, with some useful info about the .284 in competition.

http://www.6mmbr.com/gunweek053.html

Regards, Guy
 
Mitchell

I shot the 284 Win for a whole season of 1000 yard shooting - great cartridge! Don't be afraid to use the Win 284 brass. I tried both Lapua 6.5 x 284 brass necked up and Winchester 284 brass straight,both neck turned) and I preferred the Winchester over the Lapua. The Winchester brass seemed to handle the pressure and loads better, and it was less work and cheaper too, although you need to sort the stuff by weight. For powders,with heavier bullets), you can't beat H4350 and H4831SC, as both are top performers. For match shooting the Sierra 175 gr BTHP MatchKing is excellent. I shot both the Berger 180 VLD's and the Sierra 175 MatchKings, and with the same powder charges and loads, I found the Sierras and Bergers impacted at virtually the identical elevation come ups at 1000 yards off a 100 yard zero. I used non-moly bullets. For H4350, somewhere between 51-52.5 gr should get you there well and with H4831SC, somewhere between 53-54.5 gr should do it.

Attached is a reamer I set up for shooting the 284 Win, it is throated for the 175 Sierras. If you were going to set it up for the 180 Bergers you need a freebore about .060" longer,i.e. .235" vs the .175" you see on the drawing).

Robert Whitley
 
Robert,

Did you encounter any issues with chambering Lapua brass in a chamber cut specifically for Winchester brass? I know this is an issue with some 6.5-.284 chambers, as case web dimensions for Lapua brass in this caliber is larger than that for Winchester.
 
The reamer you see was not set up to hug just the Winchester brass which runs small. If you do, it's like "painting yourself in a corner". Yeah the body is a little generous for Winchester brass, but fire the brass once in the chamber and then it's not. I ran pretty much max loads all season with the Winchester brass, and many re-loads, and never had any loose primer pockets or issues. If you make a reamer up for just the Winchester brass, then you need to get custom or small base dies, you cannot use the Lapua brass - like I said - it's like painting yourself into a corner.

The reamer you see works with both Lapua Brass and Winchester brass, you can use standard Redding 284 Win match dies. Jerry Tierney uses the chamber I set up in one of his 284's.

Robert Whitley
 
Thanks guys,

I was intending to build the 284 for long range F-Class shooting. So I was intending to use the heavy match projectiles. The reason for the 284 is because I have a single shot Australian made Omark action with the 308 size bolt head.
I was wondering what sort of barrel life I could expect from the 284? and is the 162 Hornady A-MAX a good choice of projectile to try?

Thanks again,
 
Nice threat this! I'm on the brink of building myself a .284 as well. Robert, I'm interested in your reamer specs, I'm planning to run the 168gr Berger/SMK's, should I use the same throat as in your diagram?

Further I'm also interested in the question about barrel life? What would be a reasonable expectation, 2000 rounds?
 
Jerry Tierney,sp) a very well known Palma team member and former NBRSA 1000 yd BR champion is getting 1900 + on his 284 barrels shooting 175 SMK and 180 Bergers. He is using H4350 and H4831SC. I hope this helps.

Jim Hardy
 
I'm using the molyed 162 A-Max in my .284 for NRA Long Range with good results. I use Winchester brass,trimmed, neck turned, primer pocket uniformed, flash hole deburred, and sorted into 1 gr lots), Reloder-19 powder,better velocity than H4350) and 210M primers. A long-throated chamber,~0.3" freebore) will allow you to get a bit more powder in the case for a bit more velocity, and also put the heel of the A-Max ahead of the neck-shoulder junction. A 1:9 twist would also be useful for the heavy VLD bullets.
 
Great thread and information!

Robert thanks for taking the time to chat with me about your .284 reamer, your 6AR turbo and shooting in general.

JeffVN
 
I'm currently running a straight 284 in Open F class here in Australia. I started by necking up the 6.5/284 Lapua case and neck turned.I load the case with 54grains of 2213SC for the 175 SMK. The rifle has an 30in, 1 in 9 twist MAB barrel. Wild Bill who is also a member of the Bendigo club is using a very similiar setup but with an OMARK action and has had some very good luck with it. I am happy with my setup but the one thing that I am going to do is to change the stock. I want to lower the CoG of the barrel to minimize the torqueing
 
I love my 284,i have 2 of them.If you look on the varmint page you can see my 820 yard kill post.IF YOU WANT LOAD DATA GOGGLE THIS,284 WINCHESTER FOR ACCURRACY)THERE IS A GUY THERE WHO HAS POSTED DATA WEBSITE FOR EVERY POWDER,AND WHAT POWDER IS BEST FOR 284.I HAVE TRIED 4350,4831 WITH OK RESULTS.BUT WITH 150 GRAIN BULLETS YOU CAN NOT BEAT RELOADER 15,46 GRIAN) AND R22,56 GRAIN) BOTH THESE 2 POWDERS SHOOT GROUPS HALF THE SIZE OF 4831 AND 4350 AT A THOUSAND YARDS. .25" 5 SHOT AT 100.UNDER AN INCH AT 300.FOR 140 GRIAN BULLETS,RELOADER 15,48grains)4"group at 800 yards....vv160,55grains)1.8"group at 616yards,all were 5 shot)...120 GRAIN BULLETS VV160 .VV150. I TRIED LAPUA NECKED UP AND AFTER 3 FIRINGS I GET SEVERE DONUTS,WHICH KILLED MY ACCURRACY.I AM SHOOTING WINCHESTER NOW AND DO NOT HAVE THAT PROBLEM ANY MORE.THE BEST PRIMERS FOR 284 ARE WINCHESTER AND WOLF.MY TWIST IS A 1 IN 10, 26 INCH BARTLEIN INLIGHT PALMA CONTORE,IN A TACTICLE STOCK.I DID NOT BUILD IT AS A BENCH GUN,BUT AS A LONG RANGE KILLING MACHINE.KILLED 2 DEER AT 800+AND A HEAD SHOT AT 320 YARDS .LOOKING FOWARD TO A 1000YARD KILL ONE DAY.
 
SORRY I WAS WRONG ON PREVIOUS POST.GOOGLE WOULD NOT FIND THAT SITE .GO TO,YAHOO) AND TYPE IN,LOADING THE 284 WINCHESTER FOR ACCURACY) AND IT SHOULD BE THE FIRST WEB SITE YOU SEE.IT IS EXTREMELY EXSTINSIVE DATA, WHICH WAS GOTTEN FROM 1000'S OF TEST FIRINGS.CHECK IT OUT. WHOEVER THIS GUY IS,HE WAS A EXTREMELY SMART MAN,AND AND HAS PLENTY OF TIME ON HIS HANDS.
 
For those that want it; here it is,from my quick scan it was written in 2004 and only covers bullets up to 150 grains):

.284 Laod data

Clint - thanks for the information; turn off the all caps - its hard to read.

JeffVN
 
I built a 284 around a Rem 700 LA a little over a year ago, using a PTG reamer ground to the same specs as Robert Whitley's, with the exception of a.318" neck dia. instead of .315" so I could use WW cases w/o neck turning. I chambered two barrels for the 700 with this reamer - a 28" PacNor Win.HV 3-groove & 30" Bartlein hvy. Palma, both 9-twist. The PacNor hammered at 1000 with S175MKs & Berger 180 VLDs, but I wasn't getting the velocity I wanted. The Bartlein was already in hand, so I went ahead and chambered it up, and have been shooting it ever since. Initial bench testing with the Bartlein at 600 with S175s was disappointing, while the B180s were shooting considerably better; I bought a few more boxes of 180s and left it at that for the time being.

I've tried H4350 & H4831SC, but prefer N165 or regular H4831. I have a supply of Fed 210 & 210M primers that're several years old, and worked just as well as CCI BR2s during initial testing over the chrono at 600, so I'm using them up before moving on to some fresher lots of 210s & BR2s. The Bartlein gives 2800fps with moly'd 180s; I shot my first clean in prone at 1000 with them out at Byers last summer, so I'm pleased with the Bergers.


I just recently finished a new LR prone rifle built around a BAT 3L in a Robertson H&H stock with a 30" Krieger hvy. Palma 9-twist in 284, but haven't fired a shot through that bbl. yet. I also did a 30" Krieger std. Palma 7.5-twist in 6x47 Lapua for the BAT at the same time, and have found a good load for it with N160 & DTAC 115s. So, I'm ready to swap out the 6mm bbl. for the 284 and start working with it. It'll be interesting to compare the results at 600 & 1000 between the 700 & BAT 284s. The 700 is in a McMillan A5 with a Jewell HVR and a Nikon 4-16x50 tactical scope, while the BAT has one of the new Kelbly triggers and a Leupold LR 6.5-20x50 target scope. Soon as I figure out how to post photos, I'll put one or two with both rifles up.
 
I've been contemplating a 284 Win for a hunting rifle. I've been debating between a Remington, Savage or Ruger bolt action, or possibly a Ruger #1 action. I know Remington seems to be the preferred action, any problems with either Ruger action?

Additionally, long versus short action? I built an inexpensive 260Rem on a Savage long action, which has become my Youth Rifle Project. I used it for a couple years, and have a son entering the age of hunting. Now, the long action on the 260 seems overkill since he'll be shooting primarily 120gr pills until he passes it on to his younger brother.
 
Jakes10mm said:
any problems with either Ruger action?

Yes, the 77 can be a pain to bed, there are few after-market parts, machining is more difficult, and why bothering if one can get something much better.

As for the #1, I put a bunch of money into one and I will not do it again. Lock time is slowwwwww, the after-market triggers are a pain, and extraction was not exactly positive. I understand these rifles can be made to shot well, but at what cost? #1 actions have some nice features and they look great, but why bother having something like them for a hunting rifle that might get beat and banged around.

my 2 cents...
 

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