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280 AI

I am using Redding dies and Nosler cases as well and haven't had an issue. Not familiar with the JGS Reamer though, I used a PTG one from Bullets.com on mine.
 
Nosler brass is fine...Redding dies are even better, but the best product of the three is the JGS reamer!!!! I have had particularly very good luck with JGS reamers. I'll take a JGS reamer any day and twice on Sunday.
 
I use Redding type S full length dies for most cals,,,,especially BR and Dasher,,,they work perfectly in concert with Kiff (PT&G) reamers,,and Lapua brass,,,,,,Roger
 
There are two Redding die types for the 280 ai. If memory serves me, one is labeled 280 ackley 40 degree, and the other is labeled 280 Ack Imp. The latter is for the SAMMI/ Nosler chamber dimensions. Choice of die would depend on which reamer was used. I would specify the SAMMI/ Nosler reamer. I think gunsmiths are mostly moved toward this standard now.
 
Just looked at Redding site and can now only find one 280 Ackley Improved die. I believe there used to be two dimensionally different dies. In answer to your question, Redding competition dies work great with Nosler brass. Sorry if added any confusion.
 
Copied from Redding FAQ:
The SAAMI spec cartridge carries the approved name of " 280 Ackley Improved " .
The older wildcat has several names including 280 Ackley Improved 40°, 280 Rem Improved 40°, 280 Imp 40°, 280 Ackley, 280 Rem Imp, and more.
The SAAMI spec 280 Ackley Improved chamber is .014 inches shorter at the datum line headspace dimension than the traditionally accepted wildcat chamber spec as previously produced.
Our current production dies are for chambers that are cut to the SAAMI specification and are stamped "280 Ackley Imp".
Any Redding dies made before 2011 are stamped " 280 Rem Imp 40° " and are built to the originally accepted wildcat specs.
These older dies will not bump the shoulder of cases for a SAAMI chamber. In other words, the old dies are too deep for the current SAAMI chamber.
Redding makes a Competition shellholder that is .014 deeper than the standard #1 shellholder so the owner of a wildcat chamber can use the current SAAMI spec dies for safe resizing.

I ordered my dies from Midway last year and they are for the Nosler chamber. The Nosler brass, correct dies and Redding dies is a perfect combination.
 
Would be really cool if Lapua would offer 280AI cases.
Why?
The Nosler is, to this point, giving great service life. It is also very consistent in weight. In fact, when I bought the Nosler brass I also picked up 25 rounds of the Norma 280 Remington brass. Both the Nosler and the Norma weigh the exact same on my scale. There was an ever so slight difference in neck thickness o Norma but it was an excuse to turn the necks for clean up. I've hammered the Nosler (and the Norma) with heavy bullets and Retumbo powder and primer pockets are still as tight as new. Lapua would just cost more and, in my opinion, is not necessary.
 
Why?
The Nosler is, to this point, giving great service life. It is also very consistent in weight. In fact, when I bought the Nosler brass I also picked up 25 rounds of the Norma 280 Remington brass. Both the Nosler and the Norma weigh the exact same on my scale. There was an ever so slight difference in neck thickness o Norma but it was an excuse to turn the necks for clean up. I've hammered the Nosler (and the Norma) with heavy bullets and Retumbo powder and primer pockets are still as tight as new. Lapua would just cost more and, in my opinion, is not necessary.

I really disagree that Lapua brass would not be an upgrade to Nosler brass. I could be wrong. My experience with Lapua brass has been with the 260 and 6.5x47. I have tossed some Nosler 280 AI brass due to loose primer pockets. i have owned 3 different 280 AI rifles. Some of this brass could have been from my original rifle which had a poorly done chamber. I really have had no problems with brass in my current rifle. This one was chambered by Jim Borden. I simply have the impression that Lapua brass handles pressure better and lasts longer. As I stated, I could be wrong and this is only my impression. My current hunting load is RL 26 and Berger 168gr HVLD. Do you use magnum primers with Retumbo and heavy bullets. I have not ever tried them but am considering the idea. I have my current 280AI listed in the classifieds. It has generated little interest. I was going to have a slightly different new one built but am fine if it does not sell.
 
Would be really cool if Lapua would offer 280AI cases.

Agree. I don't mind the Norma brass, it holds up ok but primer pockets coming loose after 8 firings. I'd love to get my hands on RWS as it's incredibly tough but no longer made unfortuntely. Not sure the calibre is popular enough for Lapua to jump on board just yet.
 
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I really disagree that Lapua brass would not be an upgrade to Nosler brass. I could be wrong. My experience with Lapua brass has been with the 260 and 6.5x47. I have tossed some Nosler 280 AI brass due to loose primer pockets. i have owned 3 different 280 AI rifles. Some of this brass could have been from my original rifle which had a poorly done chamber. I really have had no problems with brass in my current rifle. This one was chambered by Jim Borden. I simply have the impression that Lapua brass handles pressure better and lasts longer. As I stated, I could be wrong and this is only my impression. My current hunting load is RL 26 and Berger 168gr HVLD. Do you use magnum primers with Retumbo and heavy bullets. I have not ever tried them but am considering the idea. I have my current 280AI listed in the classifieds. It has generated little interest. I was going to have a slightly different new one built but am fine if it does not sell.
Handles Pressure better? Really? ALL brass, no matter the brand fails when pushed over its pressure limit. I've killed some Lapua brass in my lifetime doing stupid stuff and if you try the same with any other brand you will get the same result. I have Nosler 300 Win Mag brass that has been loaded 10 times and still shooting well.
I am not bashing Lapua brass; far from it. I have tons of it here on my bench and use it all the time. The one thing I will say, after many years of using Lapua, is that "it ain't what is used to be". We drive Fords, Chevy's, Toyotas, etc. Why? Because someone tells us one is better than the other. Turns out all of them will leave us on the side of the road if we don't take care of them.
 
Nosler brass, 180 Berger, H4831 2830fps I get over 15 loads with Nosler and the pockets are still good they are not super tight but they will still hold a primer. at that point is usually when I need to trim so I just start over with a new batch of brass.
 
Nosler brass, 180 Berger, H4831 2830fps I get over 15 loads with Nosler and the pockets are still good they are not super tight but they will still hold a primer. at that point is usually when I need to trim so I just start over with a new batch of brass.

I am not pretending to be an expert on brass. Nosler primer pockets get perceptibly looser over time. I may bail out on the brass too early. I have bailed on brass when there was almost no felt tension but the primer was still firmly in place. I could use advice on when to toss brass with a felt lack of resistance priming with a handheld priming tool.
 

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