270 Win - Anyone willing to double check a first time reloader?

[mkd450]

You stated 20 rds fired and new starline brass. Do you have the fired brass, if so did you try chambering fired brass before sizing? Did you use the correct comparator body?

Yes, I have the Hornady brass from the first 20. It chambered pretty well but was just a little tight. I had the 17° comparator on that brass and was aiming to bump back 0.002 from there but as a newb wound up at -0.003. If I put masking tape on the back of the new sized brass I can juuuust feel resistance when closing the stripped bolt. The perfectionist in me wishes I could stretch back that .001 but if it’s safe, I’m happy for now.

 

[mkd450]

Agree with Gary in MD…. Your starting charge of 52 grains quite low …. Sooty cases and bore could follow.

If you want to start “that low” I d personally only load 1 or 2 and start going up in .4-.5 gr increments. A chronograph will be quite valuable if you own or have access to one; will quicken “where” your load is pressure wise based on velocity. I d figure on getting to 2800+ fps and then doing load work up. ( the 52 gr load could easily be 2700 fps or less in my experience)

Good Luck and enjoy the process!

Thank you Frank. I was planning on loading 1 round each at 52gr then 0.5gr increments up to around 55gr. From there keep the rest at that middle of the road charge and shoot groups at different depths. Maybe I should shift everything up 2.0gr? I guess I’m just worried about showing pressure signs and having to unseat a bunch of bullets. I have a chrono on order so if it arrives I may go all the way up the powder ladder first then mess with seating.

Honestly with the barrel so new and me still getting used to the rifle I’m not sure the data I get will be very accurate. Mainly just trying to be safe and enjoy the process for now.

Thanks again!

 

[mkd450]

I don't anneal factory fresh brass.

Thanks. Probably wasn’t necessary but I had they new toy and wanted to try it.

 

[Coyotefurharvester]

If this is a hunting rifle/rounds having zero resistance closing the bolt (stripped) is just where you want the sizing die set to. It wouldn't be a surprise that it would be -0.003 from brass that was fully fire formed. But I don't usually see fully formed brass from factory ammo. Spent primers pushed out slightly because of excess headspace in the factory ammo or necks slightly tweeted during extraction can cause comparator readings problems. You are dealing with one of the issues new reloaders have problems with, setting a sizing die properly. You are though approaching it correctly, trust what a clean chamber and a stripped bolt tells you. I set my sizing die gutted. Correct amount of lube and its placement on the case is a big part of consistency in sizing.

 

[Idaho-Lefty]

You will Be very PLEASED with, the Performance of, the Berger, 140 gr. Classic Hunter bullet.
Both for, Accuracy ( When correct Seat depth / Powder chg,. IS, Found ) And,. killing Power !
From my .270 WSM @ 3,173 FPS that Bullet Shot, clear THROUGH 2 Elk and an Antelope so far and All 3 were, DRT !
1/2 to 3/4 MOA Group's were the Norm from My, 1-10 Twist, Tikka T-3 SS, 24".
I usually Start my Powder "Work - Up's" about, "midway" from Low to Highest, KNOWN, Safe, chg's ( Saves Time ).
Good Luck !

 

[Frankm]

Mkd450,

Sounds like you got a good plan

Remember that the new barrel will build more speed (and pressure) as it breaks in. Probably take a 100 rounds or so. With that in mind don’t chase top velocity too quickly or you might be taking shells a part ….. ask me how I know (I have learned something over 55 years of loading/shooting; wife might differ with that statement though?!?!)

 

[Idaho-Lefty]

@ Frankm,. True on, the Barrel Speed Up ( Thumb's Up )
LOL,. on,. the Wife,.. differing !

 

[mkd450]

If this is a hunting rifle/rounds having zero resistance closing the bolt (stripped) is just where you want the sizing die set to. It wouldn't be a surprise that it would be -0.003 from brass that was fully fire formed. But I don't usually see fully formed brass from factory ammo. Spent primers pushed out slightly because of excess headspace in the factory ammo or necks slightly tweeted during extraction can cause comparator readings problems. You are dealing with one of the issues new reloaders have problems with, setting a sizing die properly. You are though approaching it correctly, trust what a clean chamber and a stripped bolt tells you. I set my sizing die gutted. Correct amount of lube and its placement on the case is a big part of consistency in sizing.

Thank you,

Appreciate the input and advice. Nice to hear that .003 isn’t such a bad thing.

I think my mistake in the sizing die was tightening the lock ring (Forster Co-Ax) after I was getting good bump and not accounting for that change. I will keep an eye on case lube as you suggested as well.

Thanks again.

 

[mkd450]

You will Be very PLEASED with, the Performance of, the Berger, 140 gr. Classic Hunter bullet.
Both for, Accuracy ( When correct Seat depth / Powder chg,. IS, Found ) And,. killing Power !
From my .270 WSM @ 3,173 FPS that Bullet Shot, clear THROUGH 2 Elk and an Antelope so far and All 3 were, DRT !
1/2 to 3/4 MOA Group's were the Norm from My, 1-10 Twist, Tikka T-3 SS, 24".
I usually Start my Powder "Work - Up's" about, "midway" from Low to Highest, KNOWN, Safe, chg's ( Saves Time ).
Good Luck !

Awesome, thanks for the report! I was unsure on the bullet as far as terminal performance but this is great to hear.

Great shooting gun you have there. I’d be thrilled with anything close to that accuracy.

You’re the 3rd person who inferred that my starting charge might be on the low side so I’ll probably adjust up a little bit. Supposed to be cool when I test anyway which should leave some room.

Thanks again.

 

[mkd450]

Mkd450,

Sounds like you got a good plan

Remember that the new barrel will build more speed (and pressure) as it breaks in. Probably take a 100 rounds or so. With that in mind don’t chase top velocity too quickly or you might be taking shells a part ….. ask me how I know (I have learned something over 55 years of loading/shooting; wife might differ with that statement though?!?!)

Appreciate that advice sir and will follow it. Can you help me understand how or why the barrel builds pressure as it breaks in? Intuition would make me think the opposite but I’ve read what you say elsewhere.

 

[Frankm]

I can’t honestly give a scientific answer and can only say it does happen … why I don’t know. (Possibly the bore gets lapped in and thus seals better) ??

Just a guess….

 

[nakneker]

Hello all,

I’m working on my first batch of cartridges and would appreciate anyone willing to check for glaring safety errors before I fill, seat, and fire them. Other advice welcome of course.

Gun: Tikka T3x Stainless - 270 Win (All stock)

• 22.4” Barrel, 1:10 Twist, 20rds fired.

Primer: CCI #200
Powder: H4831 SC
Bullet: Berger Classic Hunter 140g
Brass: Unfired Starline

• Annealed
• Shoulders set to 1.948* (Fired brass from other ammo 1.951)
• Trim/cham/de-bur to OAL: 2.528** (SAMMI 2.520-2.540, trim length: 2.530)
• Flash holes de-burred
• Neck Tension: -0.002 set with 0.276 mandrel
• Initial seating depth:
  • CBTO: 2.727 (-0.010 from lands)
  • COAL: 3.334 (max mag ~3.410)
• Starting Charge: 52.0g
• Shooting temps: ~70° F

*I had 1.949 (-0.002) but it appears the die settled to 1.948 about 20 cases in so I reran those for consistency. Coincidentally 1.948 is SAMMI spec but I realize that’s not the target.

**About 12 pieces were 2.528 to start so I trimmed the rest to match rather than cull them. Bad choice?

I’d like to work up from min load of 52.0g to 55.0g in 0.5g increments looking for pressure signs. (Lee & Berger maximums are 58.0g/57.3g) If all looks good from there I plan to find rough seating depth (Berger method) at 55.0 while firing 50 pieces of brass before fine tuning powder charge and final seating depth.

This will primarily be used for whitetail out to 200yds and for shooting/reloading practice.

Thank you to all who have posted so much valuable info and anyone who reads and/or provides input.

MK

You certainly have a better grasp on things than I did when I started reloading at age 19 with no mentor, your way ahead of the learning curve compared to where I was at the time.

 

[mkd450]

Thanks. Not sure how long ago it was when you started but I’m glad I have the internet now. With no mentor I’d be completely blind.

 

[searcher]

I'd be a bit wary of starting the load charge that low, though if the manuals are showing that as a minimum, you should be safe. Being new, a good idea to get into the habit of using a small flashlight to scan EVERY charged case to ensure there is powder in all of them and that the powder levels all appear to be uniform before seating bullets. The most dangerous case is the one that has no powder. If the primer pops the round into the throat and you load another round behind it, thinking it was a "dud', that is when things get bad on the next shot. No matter how experienced we all get - one always has to watch out for this. Can be more dangerous than putting too much powder in. Good luck on your first rounds!!!