270 Win - Anyone willing to double check a first time reloader?

[mkd450]

Hello all,

I’m working on my first batch of cartridges and would appreciate anyone willing to check for glaring safety errors before I fill, seat, and fire them. Other advice welcome of course.

Gun: Tikka T3x Stainless - 270 Win (All stock)

• 22.4” Barrel, 1:10 Twist, 20rds fired.

Primer: CCI #200
Powder: H4831 SC
Bullet: Berger Classic Hunter 140g
Brass: Unfired Starline

• Annealed
• Shoulders set to 1.948* (Fired brass from other ammo 1.951)
• Trim/cham/de-bur to OAL: 2.528** (SAMMI 2.520-2.540, trim length: 2.530)
• Flash holes de-burred
• Neck Tension: -0.002 set with 0.276 mandrel
• Initial seating depth:
  • CBTO: 2.727 (-0.010 from lands)
  • COAL: 3.334 (max mag ~3.410)
• Starting Charge: 52.0g
• Shooting temps: ~70° F

*I had 1.949 (-0.002) but it appears the die settled to 1.948 about 20 cases in so I reran those for consistency. Coincidentally 1.948 is SAMMI spec but I realize that’s not the target.

**About 12 pieces were 2.528 to start so I trimmed the rest to match rather than cull them. Bad choice?

I’d like to work up from min load of 52.0g to 55.0g in 0.5g increments looking for pressure signs. (Lee & Berger maximums are 58.0g/57.3g) If all looks good from there I plan to find rough seating depth (Berger method) at 55.0 while firing 50 pieces of brass before fine tuning powder charge and final seating depth.

This will primarily be used for whitetail out to 200yds and for shooting/reloading practice.

Thank you to all who have posted so much valuable info and anyone who reads and/or provides input.

MK

 

[Fast14riot]

Nothing dangerous stands out. Good job cross referencing load data, too. Even load manuals can have mistakes in them.

Just be sure to have zero distractions when charging cases and recheck your scales zero if ever in doubt. Visually verify every case has about the same amount of powder in it before seating.

After sizing, take a couple cases and check them in the rifle, thats the only chamber gauge that matters.

Your trim length is fine.

 

[Albany Mountain]

Double check the length in your rifle magazine and chamber.

 

[slickshot223]

Check your scales to make sure they are weighing correctly; might do this each time you load!! Strange things happen to scale sometimes!!

 

[mkd450]

Nothing dangerous stands out. Good job cross referencing load data, too. Even load manuals can have mistakes in them.

Just be sure to have zero distractions when charging cases and recheck your scales zero if ever in doubt. Visually verify every case has about the same amount of powder in it before seating.

After sizing, take a couple cases and check them in the rifle, thats the only chamber gauge that matters.

Your trim length is fine.

Excellent, thank you very much.

I checked some dummy rounds after sizing and will do one more time before charging.

I’ll also follow your advice during weighing process. I chose the 4831 SC as it should reach 101% capacity at max charge as an added fall back but will double check weights and visually verify as well.

Thanks again!

 

[mkd450]

Double check the length in your rifle magazine and chamber.

Thank you, I’ll do this.

 

[mkd450]

Check your scales to make sure they are weighing correctly; might do this each time you load!! Strange things happen to scale sometimes!!

Appreciate this reminder. I have 2 scales so I plan to verify each time and check against each other until I’m comfortable with them.

 

[Fast14riot]

A tip I got off of here many years ago, make your own check weight. Something close to the powder charge you use. A piece of aluminum wire or something you can cut down. Take care of it, too. I had an electronic scale crap out on me, but still zero'd just fine, but everything weighed 2gr more than actual. Thankfully I caught it after charging just 5-6 cases, so wasn't a huge waste of time. Grabbed my balance beam scale and confirmed it. Sometimes its nice having analog back ups.

 

[mkd450]

A tip I got off of here many years ago, make your own check weight. Something close to the powder charge you use. A piece of aluminum wire or something you can cut down. Take care of it, too. I had an electronic scale crap out on me, but still zero'd just fine, but everything weighed 2gr more than actual. Thankfully I caught it after charging just 5-6 cases, so wasn't a huge waste of time. Grabbed my balance beam scale and confirmed it. Sometimes its nice having analog back ups.

This is a great tip, thanks! I’ll do it when I set things up tomorrow.

 

[Webster]

Hello all,

I’m working on my first batch of cartridges and would appreciate anyone willing to check for glaring safety errors before I fill, seat, and fire them. Other advice welcome of course.

Gun: Tikka T3x Stainless - 270 Win (All stock)

• 22.4” Barrel, 1:10 Twist, 20rds fired.

Primer: CCI #200
Powder: H4831 SC
Bullet: Berger Classic Hunter 140g
Brass: Unfired Starline

• Annealed
• Shoulders set to 1.948* (Fired brass from other ammo 1.951)
• Trim/cham/de-bur to OAL: 2.528** (SAMMI 2.520-2.540, trim length: 2.530)
• Flash holes de-burred
• Neck Tension: -0.002 set with 0.276 mandrel
• Initial seating depth:
  • CBTO: 2.727 (-0.010 from lands)
  • COAL: 3.334 (max mag ~3.410)
• Starting Charge: 52.0g
• Shooting temps: ~70° F

*I had 1.949 (-0.002) but it appears the die settled to 1.948 about 20 cases in so I reran those for consistency. Coincidentally 1.948 is SAMMI spec but I realize that’s not the target.

**About 12 pieces were 2.528 to start so I trimmed the rest to match rather than cull them. Bad choice?

I’d like to work up from min load of 52.0g to 55.0g in 0.5g increments looking for pressure signs. (Lee & Berger maximums are 58.0g/57.3g) If all looks good from there I plan to find rough seating depth (Berger method) at 55.0 while firing 50 pieces of brass before fine tuning powder charge and final seating depth.

This will primarily be used for whitetail out to 200yds and for shooting/reloading practice.

Thank you to all who have posted so much valuable info and anyone who reads and/or provides input.

MK

Sounds like you’re doing a good job. Don't get to hung up on measuring and weighing things and buying a bunch of special expensive gauges. It' a hunting rifle and it might not shoot groups much under 1". Good enough for deer hunting. I was self-taught myself but I guess I'm mechanically inclined and pay attention to details.

Safety is the most important thing. Don't have anything but the can of powder you’re using on the bench. You might want to have only the primers, bullets and powder on the bench that you’re using. When your finished reloading immediately pour any leftover powder in your powder measure back into the can. Load for accuracy, don't try to see how fast you can push them. A deer doesn't know if the bullet was going 2850 fps of 2950.

I put sized and primed cases in a 50 round loading block, pick them up one at a time, put the powder in each case and put them back in the block. After all the cases are loaded, I look in each one with a small flashlight to make sure I didn't skip one. If you go away from the loading bench and come back you might forget where you left off. You cannot double charge a rifle cartridge, pistol cases maybe.

Been reloading since 1970 the only gauges I have are a few micrometers that I don't use, a digital caliper and a bump gauge. Both my riles are for GH hunting. Both easily shoot close to .350" with good bullets. I always have at least 0.010" jump so I don't stick a bullet in the bore. Once when I was at the range they called a seize fire. I opened the bolt and dumped powder in the chamber and the magazine area.

 

[mkd450]

Sounds like you’re doing a good job. Don't get to hung up on measuring and weighing things and buying a bunch of special expensive gauges. It' a hunting rifle and it might not shoot groups much under 1". Good enough for deer hunting. I was self-taught myself but I guess I'm mechanically inclined and pay attention to details.

Safety is the most important thing. Don't have anything but the can of powder you’re using on the bench. You might want to have only the primers, bullets and powder on the bench that you’re using. When your finished reloading immediately pour any leftover powder in your powder measure back into the can. Load for accuracy, don't try to see how fast you can push them. A deer doesn't know if the bullet was going 2850 fps of 2950.

I put sized and primed cases in a 50 round loading block, pick them up one at a time, put the powder in each case and put them back in the block. After all the cases are loaded, I look in each one with a small flashlight to make sure I didn't skip one. If you go away from the loading bench and come back you might forget where you left off. You cannot double charge a rifle cartridge, pistol cases maybe.

Been reloading since 1970 the only gauges I have are a few micrometers that I don't use, a digital caliper and a bump gauge. Both my riles are for GH hunting. Both easily shoot close to .350" with good bullets. I always have at least 0.010" jump so I don't stick a bullet in the bore. Once when I was at the range they called a seize fire. I opened the bolt and dumped powder in the chamber and the magazine area.

Thank you sir, appreciate the feedback! I tend to be of the same mindset, trying to keep things simple. I’m mainly focused on safety at this point while also trying to stay precise for the hobby of doing so.

Nice to see you’ve got your guns dialed in so well! I’ll be happy to shoot around 1 MOA at this point but will see where it goes.

Agree with not pushing speed. Would much prefer lower charges so I have some headroom when the weather warms up and to hopefully save wear on components.

I primed on a clean bench today and will follow your advice when it comes time to drop powder tomorrow.

Thank you again.

 

[CJ6]

I don't anneal factory fresh brass.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

I don’t think you need to worry about the bump on factory fresh either. On my regular FL die, I just set it to touch the shell holder and run the lubed cases through it to uniform everything up.

 

[Gary in MD]

When I had my 270 Win, my best accuracy was with H4831 or RL 22.
Those starting charges are low, don't be surprised if the lowest loads don't have sooty brass after firing.
My best accuracy was always achieved with a top charge of both powders (60.0) grains and a 130 grain bullet. I would expect your best accuracy to be around 58-59 grains of H4831 & the 140 Berger.
For deer out to 200 yards... It's not rocket science. Good luck

 

[K22]

I will not repeat the excellent comments you already received; I just want to congratulate you on selecting an outstandingly excellent legacy cartridge with a proven history of field performance.

The only advice I would offer is at some point you may want to try the Sierra 130 Spitzer with IMR 4350 if your current recipe doesn't yield the results you want.

In the hands of a skilled rifleman, no deer stands a chance with the great 270 Win.

 

[Coyotefurharvester]

You stated 20 rds fired and new starline brass. Do you have the fired brass, if so did you try chambering fired brass before sizing? Did you use the correct comparator body?

 

[Frankm]

Agree with Gary in MD…. Your starting charge of 52 grains quite low …. Sooty cases and bore could follow.

If you want to start “that low” I d personally only load 1 or 2 and start going up in .4-.5 gr increments. A chronograph will be quite valuable if you own or have access to one; will quicken “where” your load is pressure wise based on velocity. I d figure on getting to 2800+ fps and then doing load work up. ( the 52 gr load could easily be 2700 fps or less in my experience)

Good Luck and enjoy the process!

 

[mkd450]

When I had my 270 Win, my best accuracy was with H4831 or RL 22.
Those starting charges are low, don't be surprised if the lowest loads don't have sooty brass after firing.
My best accuracy was always achieved with a top charge of both powders (60.0) grains and a 130 grain bullet. I would expect your best accuracy to be around 58-59 grains of H4831 & the 140 Berger.
For deer out to 200 yards... It's not rocket science. Good luck

Thanks Gary. Berger has a start of 51.5gr and Lee shows 54.0gr so I was trying to err on the low side. I’ve read about the problems on lie side too though so not sure which is the best move. Hodgdon only shows a Swift SP in 140g using 4831 which also has a 54gr start.

Do you think I’m safe shifting to something like 54gr start and 57gr on high side? I wanted to wait going all the way up the powder load until I have my chrono but still wanted to do something somewhat productive this weekend.

 

[mkd450]

I don’t think you need to worry about the bump on factory fresh either. On my regular FL die, I just set it to touch the shell holder and run the lubed cases through it to uniform everything up.

Thank you, I was probably getting a bit carried away wanting to try all the new stuff I saw on the internet, haha. At this point it’s all new and fun so I don’t mind doing extra work as long as it’s safe. Once it turns into a chore I’ll probably start streamlining.

 

[mkd450]

I will not repeat the excellent comments you already received; I just want to congratulate you on selecting an outstandingly excellent legacy cartridge with a proven history of field performance.

The only advice I would offer is at some point you may want to try the Sierra 130 Spitzer with IMR 4350 if your current recipe doesn't yield the results you want.

In the hands of a skilled rifleman, no deer stands a chance with the great 270 Win.

I will not repeat the excellent comments you already received; I just want to congratulate you on selecting an outstandingly excellent legacy cartridge with a proven history of field performance.

The only advice I would offer is at some point you may want to try the Sierra 130 Spitzer with IMR 4350 if your current recipe doesn't yield the results you want.

In the hands of a skilled rifleman, no deer stands a chance with the great 270 Win.

Thank you, I appreciate the encouragement. I seem to lean towards the classics, next up is 30-06.

I’ll definitely keep that combo as an alternative if this doesn’t perform.

Definitely not a skilled rifleman behind this keyboard but I’ll try to do the cartridge justice.